recorded these accounts by miners claiming to have encountered the goddess, who cursed them with madness for pursuing gold.
During this same gold exploration period in Big Sur, a seemingly illiterate prospector named Al Clark became Pico Blanco’s best-known resident. For decades he wandered the area around the mountain and told local ranchers stories of the goddess and a vast subterranean cavern filled with ancient pictographs that matched the descriptions of saber-toothed tigers and mastodons. In an effort to hide the cave, Clark said he used dynamite to destroy its entrance. Clark was an eccentric Columbia University graduate who posed as an illiterate. Rumors swarmed that he also found a hidden gold mine, but since he had no use for money, he left it alone and concealed the mine’s location. Clark’s hoard of gold still remains a mystery.
CHAPTER four
Driving & Destinations Along Highway 1
MORE THAN 3 MILLION VISITORS a year travel Highway 1, so it’s no surprise that sightseers and vacationers have a myriad of services and attractions from which to choose—from resorts, spas, hotels, campgrounds, and retreats to galleries, hot springs, and coastal coffeehouses. The following attractions and businesses are listed in order from north to south under specific categories. While not comprehensive, the listings include many of the Hotels & Motels, Campgrounds & RV Parks, Restaurants & Cafés, Art Galleries, Automotive Services, and Events along Highway 1 between Carmel and San Simeon.
Hotels & Motels
LAMP LIGHTER INN SE corner of Ocean Avenue at Camino Real, Carmel-by-the-Sea, (831) 624-7372, carmellamplighter.com ($185–450/night). Just west of Highway 1, this is one of the most photographed inns in the country, offering rooms and cottages a short stroll from the beach and village.
CARMEL RIVER INN At Carmel River Bridge, (831) 624-1575 or (800) 882-8142, carmelriverinn.com ($165–450/night). Just past Carmel River State Beach, this inn is widely considered the best lodging bargain in Carmel.
PARK HYATT CARMEL, HIGHLANDS INN 120 Highlands Drive, Carmel, (831) 624-3801 or (800) 682-4811, highlandsinn.hyatt.com ($440–675/night). Ocean-view rooms with fireplaces and spa baths, as well as wine tasting and a fantastic restaurant.
RIVERSIDE CAMPGROUND & CABINS 22 miles south of Carmel, (831) 667-2414, riversidecampground.com ($90–200/night). Cabins on the Big Sur River.
BIG SUR RIVER INN 24 miles south of Carmel, (831) 667-2700 or (800) 548-3610, bigsurriverinn.com ($125–225/night). Balconies overlook the Big Sur River. Includes heated pool, restaurant, general store, and live entertainment in the bar on weekends.
GLEN OAKS BIG SUR 25 miles south of Carmel, (831) 667-2105 ($195–450/night). Standard rooms, as well as four separate cottages for rent in the redwoods, offering both river and forest views.
BIG SUR CAMPGROUND & CABINS 26 miles south of Carmel, (831) 667-2322 ($95–450/night). Tent cabins and A-frame cabins with kitchens, fireplaces, and redwood decks overlooking the river.
FERNWOOD RESORT 26 miles south of Carmel, (831) 667-2422 ($45–195/night). One of the least expensive spots above the Big Sur River, offering 66 campsites, 10 cabins, and 13 motel-style units.
BIG SUR LODGE 26 miles south of Carmel, (831) 667-3100, bigsurlodge.com ($159–364/night). Within Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, this lodge offers simple cottages, a restaurant, gift shop, grocery, laundry, and a heated pool in summer.
RIPPLEWOOD RESORT 27 miles south of Carmel, (831) 667-2242, ripplewoodresort.com ($105–225/night). Another affordable option above the Big Sur River, with a convenience store, gas station, and café.
VENTANA INN 28 miles south of Carmel, (831) 667-2331 or (800) 628-6500, ventanainn.com ($440–1,500/night). Nestled on a hillside, this inn offers elegant cottages and luxury suites with ocean or mountain views, as well as a restaurant and spa services.
POST RANCH 28 miles south of Carmel, (831) 667-2200 or (800) 527-2200, postranchinn.com ($675–2,485/night). This cliffside ranch offers rustic yet elegant rooms with awe-inspiring ocean views. Voted one of the best hotels in North America. Award-winning Sierra Mar Restaurant serves world-class cuisine.
DEETJEN’S BIG SUR INN 28 miles south of Carmel, (831) 667-2377, deetjens.com ($105–260/night). Rustic, funky rooms offer an offbeat hideaway in a shady redwood canyon.
ESALEN INSTITUTE 8 miles south of Big Sur, (831) 667-3005, esalen.org ($140–220/night). Offering natural hot springs and workshops that emphasize the potentialities of human existence.
LUCIA LODGE 22 miles south of Big Sur and 38 miles north of San Simeon, (831) 667-2391, lucialodge.com ($150–275/night). These cabins are set along a 300-foot cliff above the Pacific, offering ocean views from the dining deck.
TREEBONES RESORT 37 miles south of Big Sur and 23 miles north of San Simeon, (877) 424-4787, treebonesresort.com (campsite: $90/night; yurt: $215–400/night). There are 16 canvas-covered yurts, along with ocean-view campsites and the Wild Coast Restaurant and Sushi Bar, which focuses on sustainably harvested local food. No children under age 6 allowed.
GORDA SPRINGS COTTAGES 42 miles south of Big Sur and 25 miles north of San Simeon, (805) 927-4600 or (805) 927-3918, gordaspringsresort.com ($150–300/night). Cottages feature a private patio overlooking the ocean; some have hot tubs, fireplaces, and ocean views. General store, restaurant, gift shop, and excellent whale-watching. Pet the resident llamas.
RAGGED POINT INN 50 miles south of Big Sur and 15 miles north of San Simeon, (805) 927-4502, raggedpointinn.net ($159–309/night). You’ll find 21 rooms with coastal views, as well as a conference/wedding pavilion, restaurant, snack bar, gallery and gift shop, espresso stand, convenience store, gas station, and gardens.
Campgrounds & RV Parks
ANDREW MOLERA STATE PARK 21 miles south of Carmel and 70 miles north of San Simeon, (831) 667-2315 (24 sites, $25/night). A walk-in campground about 0.3 mile from the parking area. No dogs allowed. Sites are granted on a first-come, first-serve basis.
RIVERSIDE CAMPGROUND & CABINS 22 miles south of Carmel, (831) 667-2414, riversidecampground.com (45 sites, $40/night for tent site and $50/night for RV site). Perched along the Big Sur River in the shade of redwoods, this campground offers swimming and fishing in season.
BIG SUR CAMPGROUND & CABINS 24 miles south of Carmel, (831) 667-2322 (tent: $45–60/night for 2 people; $5 for each additional person up to 5; cabin: $180–535/night). Offers full-hookup campsites along the Big Sur River, as well as tent cabins and A-frame cabins.
FERNWOOD RESORT CAMPGROUND 25 miles south
