Hiking and Backpacking Big Sur. Analise Elliot Heid
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A number of other moisture-loving trees, shrubs, and herbs grow in association with redwoods. Common neighboring trees include tanoak (Lithocarpus densiflorus), California bay (Umbellularia californica), western sycamore (Platanus racemosa), white alder (Alnus rhombifolia), and bigleaf maple (Acer macrophyllum). Although redwood canopies all but blot out the sun, a surprisingly dense understory of ferns, herbs, and shrubs obtain enough sunlight to carpet stream corridors and steep slopes along the forest floor. Understory plants include western sword fern (Polystichum munitum), bracken fern (Pteridium aqulinum), giant chain fern (Woodwardia fimbriata), American maidenhair fern (Adiantum pedatum), California maidenhair fern (Adiantum jordani), coastal wood fern (Dryopteris arguta), fairy lantern (Calochortus alkus), western hound’s-tongue (Cynoglossum grande), fairy bells (Disporum hookeri), western starflower (Trientalis latifolia), poison oak (Toxicodendron diversilobum), evergreen huckleberry (Vaccinium ovatum), and redwood sorrel (Oxalis oregana).
The lush forest seems surprisingly void of wildlife. The understory supports few seed-bearing plants to attract herbivores and their predators. One of the most common plants, redwood sorrel, is even toxic to herbivores. Regardless, a few animals do thrive here. One notable and highly visible resident is the banana slug, a bright yellow gastropod that grazes on understory plants and fungi. Its bright coloration is a defense mechanism, signaling predators that the slug is extremely distasteful. Other common species include:
MAMMALS Trowbridge shrew and broad-handed mole.
BIRDS Steller’s jay, winter wren, brown creeper, Pacific slope flycatcher, dark-eyed junco, hermit thrush, varied thrush, American robins, chestnut-backed chickadee, common flickers, great horned owl, northern pygmy owl, and golden-crowned kinglet.
REPTILES & AMPHIBIANS Coast Range newt, red salamander, slender salamander, alligator lizard, western fence lizard, and sharp-tailed snake.
The ubiquitous banana slug
Riparian Woodland
By definition, riparian (riverside) woodlands follow clear water in Big Sur country. Characterized by moisture-loving trees, this community nestles alongside creeks, streams, and rivers in the heart of the wilderness. The most common trees are the deciduous western sycamore (Platanus racemosa), bigleaf maple (Acer macrophyllum), red alder (Alnus rubra), white alder (Alnus rhombifolia), and several species of willow (Salix spp.). In fall the major drainages of the Santa Lucia Range, notably the Carmel and Big Sur Rivers and Arroyo Seco, boast vibrant hues as autumn leaves catch the slightest canyon breezes. In spring the forest flaunts such delicate moisture-loving flowers as leopard lily (Lilium pardalinum), giant stream orchid (Epipactus gigantean), scarlet monkeyflower (Mimulus cardinalis), red columbine (Aquilegia formosa), and thimbleberry (Rubus parviflorus).
During spring tiger lilies adorn the banks of riparian corridors.
This is one of the best areas to view wildlife. Butterflies, dragonflies, amphibians, reptiles, fish, birds, and mammals all gather here to drink, hunt, forage, and mate. Resident species include:
MAMMALS Mule deer, mountain lion, bobcat, coyote, raccoon, gray fox, striped skunk, opossum, Pacific shrew, ornate shrew, western harvest mouse, deer mouse, dusky-footed woodrat, big brown bat, silver-haired bat, red bat, and hoary bat.
BIRDS American dipper, belted kingfisher, red-shouldered hawk, Cooper’s hawk, western screech owl, long-eared owl, downy woodpecker, white-headed woodpecker, black phoebe, willow flycatcher, violet-green swallow, tree swallow, plain titmouse, white-breasted nuthatch, Bewick’s wren, Swainson’s thrush, warbling vireo, yellow warbler, Wilson’s warbler, American goldfinch, lesser goldfinch, and song sparrow.
REPTILES Western pond turtle, western terrestrial garter snake, sharp-tailed snake, ringneck snake, rubber boa, California mountain kingsnake, western rattlesnake, western fence lizard, and alligator lizard.
FISH & AMPHIBIANS Pacific tree frog, steelhead trout, brown trout, rainbow trout, lamprey, arboreal salamander, red salamander, slender salamander, Coast Range newt, tiger salamander, bullfrog, and crayfish.
Grassland
Grasslands usually mix with coastal scrub along the slopes of the Santa Lucia Range. In the drier interior, they grow alongside arid thickets of chaparral on oak- and pine-studded hillsides. Grasslands also thrive along marine terraces and coastal bluffs, including El Sur Ranch north of Andrew Molera State Park, where cattle continually graze.
Those who believe the central coast to be void of seasonal changes have not taken a stroll through the grasslands of Big Sur. Following winter rains, vibrant green grasses sprout from the damp earth. This annual growth cycle may end before summer if little rain falls in spring. By late May, the rolling hills turn golden as the grasslands fade and lay dormant until the following winter’s rains.
Most grasses responsible for these seasonal bursts of color are exotic species to the California landscape. In the mid 19th century, settlers brought in invasive annual grasses to feed livestock. These species quickly outcompeted native perennial grasses and thrived in areas ravaged by grazing, fire, or landslides.
Though grasses are the dominant species, forbs and herbs also thrive here, weaving colorful tapestries along the open slopes of the Coast Range. Among the most recognized are the blue, purple, and orange hues of sky lupines (Lupinus nanus) and California poppies (Eschscholzia californica). Other fragile, ornate flowers include the padres shooting star (Dodecatheon clevelandii), California buttercup (Ranunculus californicus), Johnny-jump-up (Viola pedunculata), and blue dicks (Dichelostemma pulchella).
Seasonal changes are most dramatic within the grassland ecosystem, where vibrant new growth carpets the landscape.
Many animals forage and hunt in the grasslands, though few find safe refuge to nest and breed. Common species include:
MAMMALS Coyote, mule deer, bobcat, gray fox, pocket gopher, California ground squirrel, and long-tail weasel.
BIRDS Western meadowlark, grasshopper sparrow, savannah sparrow, lark sparrow, burrowing owl, horned lark, white-tailed kite, red-tailed hawk, red-shouldered hawk, American kestrel, golden eagle, barn owl, great horned owl, California quail, mourning dove, swallows, swifts, and finches.
REPTILES Gopher snake, western rattlesnake, yellow-bellied racer, ringneck snake, alligator lizard, and western fence lizard.
Oak Woodland
Majestic oak woodlands form some of Big Sur’s most picturesque, enchanting forests. The southern region shelters centuries-old blue and valley oaks, while coastal slopes are studded with sprawling coast live oaks draped with lacy lichens. The most common trees are coast live oak (Quercus agrifolia), blue oak (Quercus douglasii), California black oak (Quercus kelloggii), valley oak (Quercus lobata), and canyon live oak (Quercus chrysolepis). Oak woodlands vary from dense forests to grassy savannas, and plants from neighboring communities often occupy the understory.
Unfortunately,