fringe the National Park.
Each valley has a character subtly different from that of its neighbours, and although none can be said to be truly representative, Wharfedale, together with its tributaries, perhaps more than any other, encapsulates the spirit of the Dales. From the source of the River Wharfe high on Cam Fell to Bolton Abbey, where it leaves the park behind, is a distance of some 30 miles (48km), and it is possible to walk close by the river’s banks for much of the way. Born out of an evocative wildness, the Wharfe tumbles in youthful exuberance between the steep and narrow flanks of Langstrothdale, but then, turning a corner, seems to find a different and more considered purpose. The hills step back to indulge its meandering course through an increasingly bucolic landscape of neatly walled pastures dotted with laithes and small steadings. The high ground encompasses the abrupt and arresting scenery of karst and the wild expanses of the open moors, both encroaching across an indeterminate boundary with the pastoral scene below. Its fickle tributary, the River Skirfare, can bubble boisterously at one point and then disappear completely within a few metres, while the Wharfe itself can swell from an innocuous stream to a thundering torrent after heavy rain.
That same diversity is repeated further west in the hills that give rise to the River Aire, from the gritty moors above Winterburn to the awesome limestone scarps of Malham and Gordale. Like Grassington, the village of Malham must be amongst the most visited of the whole park, and its popularity stems simply from the grand beauty of its setting. The accessibility of Malham Cove, Gordale and Janet’s Foss has put them within reach of almost everyone, and their natural charm has no doubt awakened a love of the countryside in many a child visiting as part of a geography field trip. But, even on the busiest summer weekend, you need not wander far to experience a sense of quiet and freedom.
The River Skirfare sometimes tumbles along its bed at Litton (Walk 16)
With working quarries and a railway that runs its full length, Ribblesdale appears the most workaday of the Dales. Yet even here, it is the loveliness of the scenery that makes the greatest impression. Of all the dales, it is the one that most obviously proclaims an identity in the mountains that enclose it, for here they stand well back and can be viewed with anticipation. And this is the dale intimately linked with the Three Peaks Challenge, which begins and ends at the famous café in Horton. So much is said of them that you might be forgiven for thinking them the three highest in Yorkshire – and while Whernside and Ingleborough most certainly are, Pen-y-ghent, barely 30m lower, only ranks eighth in the list. Despite this handicap, it is perhaps the most striking of all, and, if approached along the Pennine Way from the south, arouses all the expectancy and sense of achievement of a real mountaineering peak.
Dentdale is subtly different from the rest, a valley of hedgerows and occasional trees that lend a greater feeling of warmth and intimacy than the grey stone walls defining the field patterns elsewhere. West-facing, it looks out not onto lowland plains, but the mountains of Cumbria, and there is a sense of seclusion from the rest of the world not experienced in the other dales. This perception is heightened in the approach from whichever direction, for the lanes are narrow and twisting right from the start. But, in common with its neighbours, it is grand walking country and every route is enjoyable from the very first step.
THE YORKSHIRE DALES NATIONAL PARK
Centred upon the core of this unique area is the Yorkshire Dales National Park, created in 1954, the seventh of the UK’s national parks. The then omission of Nidderdale, Mallerstang, the Howgills and the western outlying hills was heavily criticised, for although beyond the bounds of Yorkshire, they are geologically and geographically connected and equally deserving of protection. Forty years were to pass before Nidderdale was finally designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and it was not until August 2016 that the National Park’s boundaries were extended to include the remaining areas.
Fishing on the River Wharfe as it passes through Strid Wood (Walk 1)
The additional areas increased the park’s size by almost a quarter to 2178 square kilometres (841 square miles) to make it the country’s third largest, with the Nidderdale AONB adding a further 600 square kilometres (233 square miles). Somewhat less than half of this is actively managed as agricultural land while the rest consists largely of open country and moorland. Historic land use, geography and climate mitigate against extensive areas of woodland and little more than three per cent is covered by trees, the largest single area being the coniferous plantations encircling the higher reaches of Langstrothdale. Because of the geology, extensive bodies of water are also notable by their absence and, in fact, only two natural lakes of significance occur in the whole of the Dales, Malham Tarn and Semer Water. However, the gritstone valleys in the south and east harbour a number of manmade reservoirs, built to sustain the industrial towns of West Yorkshire.
The park’s resident population is below 24,000 – less than 30 people per square mile. But this figure is swelled by an estimated 9.5 million visitors each year, on average more than doubling the resident population. And while most people live in one of the three small towns lying wholly within its boundaries – Sedbergh, Hawes and Grassington – few of even the remotest dales are totally devoid of habitation. Picturesque villages and hamlets are scattered along the major valleys, with small steadings to be found everywhere, right up into the highest reaches. This all might seem like rather a lot of people, but wander away from the main centres, even on a bank holiday weekend, and you can spend a day on the tops with hardly a soul about.
Almost all of today’s roads follow ancient lines of travel, as do many of the paths and tracks that lie away from the tarmac. There are few main roads, however, and the majority of the narrow lanes are relatively traffic free and a delight to walk, cycle or ride. In addition, there are in excess of 3200 kilometres (2080 miles) of designated footpaths, bridleways and tracks, which contour the dales, climb the intervening hills and criss-cross the open moors. And, following the implementation of the CROW Act in 2000, around 1087 square kilometres (about 420 square miles), including the majority of the upland area, is now designated open access land.
Much of the countryside encompassed within the legislation is upland moor and heath and is identified on OS Explorer Maps by peach-coloured (open land) and light green (woodland) tints. Access points on the ground are usually identified by a circular brown and white symbol of a walking figure. Within these areas you have a right to wander (but not cycle), even where there is no path, but there are responsibilities too. These are generally common sense, such as following the Countryside Code (see www.openaccess.gov.uk) and being careful not to cause damage. Dogs are generally permitted too, but should be on a close lead near livestock and during the bird breeding season (1 March to 31 July). However, on some grouse moors, specifically those around Barden Moor and Barden Fell, dogs are not allowed at any time other than on designated public footpaths. Landowners are entitled to suspend or restrict access for short periods, for example during the grouse shooting season or while heather and gorse burning takes place. There may also be restrictions for conservation purposes. Such closures are notified in advance and should be respected, but do not affect any public rights of way that may run across the land.
PRACTICALITIES
Although none of the routes described in this book is technically demanding, many venture onto upland moors where paths may be vague or non-existent and conditions can be very different from those experienced in the valleys. Conditions can rapidly deteriorate at any time of year, and inexperienced walkers should be aware that it is easy to become disorientated in mist. However, taking a few simple and common-sense precautions will help ensure you get the best out of the day.
Navigation and maps
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