promenade beside the road. Continue along the Rue Albert Garrigat towards the next bridge, the Vieux Pont, and cross straight over towards Vieux Bergerac, along the Rue Hippolyte Taine. You soon reach the Vieux Port, from where you can take a trip out on a gabarre.
At the Vieux Port there are two old courau boats, used for medium sized cargos, and several information boards in English, including ones on the town of Bergerac and the mills, which ground wheat and walnuts to export all over the world. Opposite the port is the large old mill-building, a symbol of Bergerac’s trading activity in the 18th century. By the mid 19th century, the merchandise loaded up at the Vieux Port to be transported to Bordeaux was 28 per cent wood and 65 per cent wine, the remaining cargo being of olive oil, chestnuts, paper and even millstones. On the return journey, sugar, coffee and other exotic goods came via Bordeaux from further afield.
The port consists of three sections, the most important being the Quai Salvette which was developed in 1838. At the end is the Quai Louis Bernicot, which is named after the sea captain who circumnavigated the world after his retirement in 1936.
A courau boat at the Vieux Port
At the end of the port, go down the cobblestones to join the river path opposite an island. The path soon rejoins the road at an information board entitled ‘le Canelet’, and then goes on a grassy track down to the river at the Sport Nautique building. Go back up to join the Promenade Pierre Loti, which is a quiet road for pedestrians only between the river and more smart houses. Pierre Loti, 1850−1923, was a writer whose novels are set in the exotic places he travelled to when a naval officer. The road then becomes the Promenade du Barrage, which is a peaceful stretch with no houses and a large military area on the right. The pedestrian section ends at a Sports Centre and Tennis Club just before a line of buoys across the river, and a warning sign that swimming and boating are forbidden in the area of the dam. You now reach the dam, which in high water is an even more impressive sight, with water pouring over it.
On the riverbank there are several information boards, about the dams in the Dordogne and the different fish found in the river, which include salmon, trout, eels, sturgeon, pike, perch, carp and bream. An unusually long fish ladder of 70m has been constructed to enable the fish to get over the dam.
At the end of the road there is a parking area and a small bridge leading to a narrow path in the woods. Take this if you wish to continue along the river to Prigonrieux, a further 5.5km. Otherwise, turn around and retrace your steps to the Vieux Port. This is a good place to make a detour to see the old town. Continue along the river to Cale de l’Alba and your car (2hr).
Old houses in Bergerac: photo Richard Saynor
WALK 2
The vineyards of Monbazillac
| Start/Finish | Monbazillac, 165m |
| Distance | 6km |
| Total ascent | 80m |
| Grade | Easy |
| Time | 1hr 45min |
| Maximum altitude | 175m |
| Maps | IGN Série Bleue 1837 O Eymet 1:25,000 |
| Access | From Bergerac, head south following signs to Monbazillac, which will take you onto the D13. Drive past the Château of Monbazillac to the top of the village and park opposite the tourist office next to the church (7km from Bergerac). |
| Signposting | Good – signposts for the Boucle de Monbazillac, yellow waymarkers (mostly posts) and red/white signs when on the GR6/GR654 |
This is a short, easy walk through the vineyards to the south of the Château of Monbazillac, situated in an imposing position on the brow of a hill overlooking the Dordogne river. The surrounding vineyards, which were originally planted by monks in the Middle Ages, produce the sweet white wine the area is renowned for, and it is worth stopping after the walk for a free wine tasting.
The Château de Monbazillac is relatively new compared to others in the Dordogne, and was not built until 1550. It was never ransacked, burnt or besieged, so remains exactly as it was built. It is now owned by the Monbazillac Wine Cooperative, and has a Wine Museum in the vaulted cellars, with free wine tasting. The rooms open to the public include the Great Hall and bedchambers, furnished with antique furniture and containing documents outlining the history of the Protestant religion. The château is open all year round except January, but check the website for details: www.chateau-monbazillac.com.
Vineyards near le Tonibru
Walk down the side of the church and take the road on the left towards le Pezaud/les Maules. Walk out of the village towards the vineyards, and follow the yellow markers and signposts for the Boucle de Monbazillac. Turn left on a grassy track between vineyards and then turn right onto a small road to the end of the houses, where the road becomes a grassy track again to reach another road 1. Turn left on the road, opposite the farm of la Roche, and continue up the road past the farm of le Tonibru to a T-junction. Turn right and after a few metres turn left, towards les Croux. This smaller, unsurfaced road goes into the woods and through stone gate posts which lead to the large estate of les Croux. Bear left on a track at the side of the estate, and at a yellow marker go left round a vineyard to reach a signpost where you join the red/white signs of the GR6. Go straight on, initially between woods and then vineyards, approaching more farms and houses. At the first house continue straight ahead on a surfaced track to the next yellow marker at a T-junction. Turn left on a larger road and at the next junction you leave the GR which goes straight on 2 (50min).
Turn left towards the hamlet of les Bruyères, and where the road bends right, go straight on a grassy track with woods on the left. You rejoin the road at a communications pylon and continue into the hamlet of Peyrelevade to the main road. Turn right and at the next yellow marker turn left onto a jeep track, past a farm on the left. At the next yellow marker go straight on at the side of a vineyard on your left. From here you can see the château beyond the vines, and the river and Bergerac, with the tall spire of Notre Dame church, down in the valley to the right. Turn right at a yellow marker and go round the vineyard to rejoin the road opposite a house (1hr 15min).
Walking past the Château de Monbazillac
Turn left and walk down the road to a large house where you turn left between the houses of la Cattie. You are now on the GR6 again, so follow the red/white markings. The track bears to the right and goes downhill into woods and then vineyards as it winds along below the Château de Monbazillac. At a T-junction turn left and walk up to the road past the grounds of the château and the entrance. Continue up the road to the Maison du Tourisme et du Vin, another good place for free wine tasting, and then cross the road back to the church and your car (1hr 45min).
WALK 3
Flaugeac to the Château de Bridoire
|
Start/Finish
|
