Beehives near Nimfasía
From the central square of Nimfasía, head NW along the road between the ‘ΧΑΣΑΠΟΤΑΒΕΡΝΑ (963m)’ (HASAPOTABERNA) taverna (L) and the Ménalo mapboard (R). At the bell tower, turn L and then bear R, following green square (GS) waymarks and signs to Ierá Moní Kernítsis.
Where the road bears L at a cemetery (5min), continue straight ahead (W) on a dirt road towards the flat-topped summit of Aryirókastro. Ignore side tracks to L and R. After 10min, you pass a shrine and a Ménalon Trail (MT) sign; shortly after this, just beyond a L bend in the track, fork R and immediately R again (GS) down a small path (W). This enters a ditch, bears R (first views of the convent) and zigzags down, part-shaded by oaks, to just above the road bridge over the Miláontas stream (40min). Don’t drop down to the road, but keep R, climbing and then dropping steeply to cross the river on an old stone bridge (45min). This is a lovely shady spot, but tantalisingly there is no way down to the blue-green pools (dry after June).
Shortly before the road, the path turns sharp R and then splits: both ways lead to the convent but L (GS) is gentler. Reunited, the old mule path zigzags up, through a gate, to emerge at the top of the car park for Kernítsa convent (55min).
To visit Kernítsa convent (open daily from 9am–2pm and from 4pm until sunset), follow the stepped lane to the right, up through a rose garden and a wooden gate to the chapel, perched on a limestone crag above the gorge.
The site is 900 years old, the buildings much newer; they now house 14 nuns – and, on the 15 August feast day, many visiting pilgrims. A door to the left of the chapel takes you down to the tiny vaulted crypt, with a copy of the miraculous icon, and dozens of censers hanging from the ceiling.
The crypt of Kernítsa
From the convent car park, follow a stepped path (W) up to a stone-faced chapel (good spring), through the gate, across the yard, out of the far gate and R up a steep path (GS). Climb a shaly spur, covered in purple cistus in May, with views back to the convent. After 10min (1hr 5min), you pass an overgrown circular threshing floor and pick up a jeep track continuing SW. Look left (south) to see the tiny red-roofed shrine of Áyios Ioánnis on a rocky outcrop at the end of a sandy spur: you’ll pass this later.
At the end of a fence (L), leave the GS waymarks and follow a track L down to the dirt road, where you turn R. After 3–4min, fork R (uphill), watching out for vicious dogs (be prepared to throw some stones). After another 5–6min (1hr 20min), and 20 metres after a stone chapel (L), fork L down the uppermost of two tiny jeep tracks between a fence (L) and a hut (R). This bends L across a small streambed (plane trees), then winds over shrubby hillsides and down a shaly spur to the shrine of Áyios Ioánnis which, close up, looks like a cross between a dog kennel and a family grave (1hr 40min). Before the shrine, take a small path descending sharp R (W), contouring S across shale to a small saddle, and then stonily down to a lovely meadow ringed by plane trees (1hr 50min): lovely camping.
From the left-hand corner of the meadow, it is worth making a short detour north to a point where the gorge narrows dramatically. You can either take a small path that threads its way along the left bank 20–30 metres above the stream, or follow the streambed (dry after June). After visiting, retrace your steps to the meadow.
Tzavárena bridge
To continue, from the upper end of the meadow, find a small path running SW parallel to the stream and about 30 metres above it, to reach the old stone bridge of Tzavárena (2hr). In pre-automobile days, this bridge used to be the main artery between Vitína and the villages of western Gortynia. Cross the bridge (signpost to ‘Vitína 45 mins’) and head straight (SE) up the opposite slope (GS). After 7–8min, bear R (S), still climbing steadily, across slopes speckled with yellow Onosma and red spurge. You cross a dry gully (880m); the path may be washed out. At a spur with views towards Vitína, turn unexpectedly R (GS) following the spur down to a wooden picnic shelter (2hr 20min) with plunging views over a narrow cleft of river gorge, known as Mávra Lithária (black boulders).
For a closer look at the river gorge (optional), a stepped path zigzags down to the plane-shaded riverbed, which you follow carefully to the right into the jaws of the gorge.
If, in the riverbed, you keep left and cross two wooden bridges, there is a narrow rollercoaster trail all the way to the stone bridge of Zárzi in about 45min, from where tracks lead to Vitína – but from the state of the trail in 2016 there’s no guarantee it will be passable. It is better to return to the picnic shelter.
From the shelter, follow the jeep track E. After 5min, at a L bend, turn R down a path (GS) which crosses a smelly stream, swings R (W) and climbs steadily and shadily SE. It briefly rejoins the track at a hairpin (GS) before forking R (uphill) and veering R to crest the ridge. Here, turn L along a paved path, passing the ruins of Paliá Vitína (L).
At a gravel track, continue straight/L; after a couple of minutes, a bigger track joins from the L and you pass Áyi Apóstoli chapel and Arhontaríki guesthouse on your R (2hr 40min). Follow the now paved lane E into Vitína (2hr 50min). The E4-sponsored Hotel Sinói (tel 27950-22354, mob 694-5632241, www.sinoi.gr) is on the far (E) side of town.
Side trip to Dhimitsána, Stemnítsa and the Loúsios gorge (1–2 days)
There are two buses a day from Vitína to the beautiful towns of Dhimitsána and Stemnítsa on Ménalo’s western flanks, overlooking the deep river valley and spectacularly sited monasteries of the Loúsios. If you have time to spare, this is a worthwhile two-day detour, using the Anávasi map or the Ménalon Trail waymarks (red squares on white) to hike from Dhimitsána to Stemnítsa via the water museum, Filosófou monastery, Prodhrómou monastery, and (optionally) a detour to the ancient riverside ruins and Asklepeion of Gortys (or Górtina) (5–6hr in total). There are several hotels and tavernas in Dhimitsána (we like the Theonimfi guesthouse www.theonimfi.gr and the Kazakou www.xenonaskazakou.gr), and a few in Stemnítsa.
The Anávasi and Ménalon Trail maps also show waymarked forest trails linking Dhimitsána or Stemnítsa with Vitína (red/yellow squares), but with 8–9hr hiking time and uncertain route-finding, you may struggle to make it in a day. We’d be happy to hear from anyone who does try it.
STAGE 6
Vitína (1030m) to Kardharás (1020m) or Kápsia (700m) via Mt Ménalo ski area (1600m)
| Start point | Vitína |
| Distance | 17km to Kardháras (22km to Kápsia) excluding Sfendámi |
| Difficulty | 2–3 |
| Walking time | 5hr 45min to Kardharás (6hr 45 min to Kápsia) excluding Sfendámi |
| Height gain | 930m |
| Height loss | 940m |
| Waymarks | Yellow then orange squares |
Today’s
