to distant Mt Olonós. The going is easy, apart from three washed-out gullies (take care). After about half an hour, you reach the 1150m ridge of Psilós Stavrós, with five interlinked wooden water troughs filled by a big black hosepipe (50min).
Alternative route to the ridge
An alternative route, avoiding the exposure, follows the broad path to a cross, then descends L on loose stones, past the base of a crag (BW and YW waymarks), before climbing steeply through fir forest, across a wooden footbridge, and up to the ridge just S of the troughs.
On the ridge near Psilós Stavrós
From the troughs, continue briefly S along the ridge, then follow a good path (and the hosepipe) R, contouring round a gentle summit. Resume along the ridge line, climbing steadily through fir forest (BW and a few YW waymarks). Look out for harebells, leopard’s bane, nodding cyclamen, squeaking chaffinches and the occasional squawking woodpecker. About 20min from the troughs, with large lumps of conglomerate rock ahead, bear L along a small clear path descending gently, then round a corner and more steeply, over loose stones.
You enter the fir-cloaked Kaloyerávlako valley – mossy rocks, forget-me-nots, green marten droppings – and almost meet the stream (normally flowing until late May/early June). Continue along the R (true L) bank, joining an old cement conduit. Where the conduit crosses on a flimsy bridge (1hr 30min), walk down to the stream, jump across and up the far bank for 30 metres to rejoin the path alongside the conduit. About 20min later, you reach the broader, meadowy area of Alinísia (1300m); great camping.
Keep following the L (true R) bank near the pipe and stream. The path ascends briefly, then drops to cross the stream (faded BW waymark on a low rock) and resumes its climb more steeply; red paint splodges help through some messy switchbacks. It levels out around 1400m and follows the daisy-specked banks of the now-dry stream, before joining a dirt road (2hr 15min) at a yellow-and-black signpost pointing back to ‘Méga Spílio 1h45’. Follow this L/straight, towards ‘Xerokampos Helmos Ski Center 1h10’. After a minute or so, ignore a second signpost (‘Peristéra 4h45’, etc) and stay on the dirt road, ignoring smaller jeep tracks L. After 15min along the valley floor you reach the lovely open meadows of Livádhi Louká, carpeted with millions of daisies in May. Stay on the dirt road to a fork (2hr 45min) near a hunters’ hut with two benches.
Livádhi Louká
As the Anávasi map shows, there are several routes up to the Kserókambos plateau. In low cloud, you could follow the main dirt road (L, then keep R). Otherwise, our preferred route is to fork R past the hut. After 5min, at a multiple fork, keep R and immediately L to skirt the base of a grassy hump. Behind this, ignore a jeep track climbing steeply ahead and bear R (W) up a gentler jeep track, which then climbs in earnest – with a few unnecessary curves – to reach the grassy watershed (3hr 10min). This is a good lunch spot, with far-reaching views west over endless layers of jagged, blue-grey mountains.
Follow the ridge L (S) – largely trailless, with occasional orange splodges – becoming steeper, stonier and treeless: rock partridge terrain. After a steep step between two outcrops of conglomerate boulder, bear R and resume L to reach the concrete 1687m trig point (3hr 40min). The rocky pyramid of Neraidhórakhi (2339m) is visible ahead (south), with the Khelmós ski slopes and buildings below.
Here, turn L (ESE) following the ridge and orange splodges (note: these also continue R/WSW). After 8min, descend a lip into a grassy gully and follow a faint jeep track down this (SSE) to rejoin the main dirt road (3hr 55min).
Follow this R (SSE), passing a crude shepherds’ hut after 15min, to reach an asphalt road (4hr 15min). Turn R and immediately join the main road from Kalávrita to the ski centre; continue along this (NW). After 2min, at a L bend, take the path R, signed ‘Kalávrita 2h30’. The clear path, waymarked with green triangles, descends steadily W through fir forest, crossing the main road twice. Be prepared for passing mountain bikers, and even motocrossers at weekends. After 45min, you see the new chalets of Valvoúsi ahead/R, tucked among alpine meadows, and soon join the dirt road that serves them, next to an old yellow-black post. Continue straight (W) along the dirt road for 5min to join the main Kalávrita–Lousí road by a small blue sign (‘Valvoúsi alt. 1140m’) above some new stone chalets (5hr 15min). Here, the route may become messy, especially if more chalets are built; if so, follow the main road L (SW) to the ridge and Áyios Nikólaos chapel (1.2km).
From the small blue sign, turn R along the main road for 150 metres and, by two telephone poles and a wooden sign ‘Aroania Village II’, turn sharp L into a field. Follow the L edge of the field to a wooden telephone pole, passing right next to it, climbing very slightly and bearing L (200°) onto a short section of old path, then up a small streambed to a new but uninhabited chalet. Behind this, follow the concrete track uphill. At a dirt road, turn R down to a walled spring (dry); you rejoin the E4 trail here. Turn L up a jeep track (230°) to a telephone pole on the skyline, next to the chapel of Áyios Nikólaos (5hr 35min).
Turn R along the road and after 50 metres fork L (E4 signpost) down a steep and stony dirt road. After 7min, ignore a R turn. The road (now concrete) enters the village of Áno Lousí. Turn R, passing the village church, spring and plane trees. Shortly before the road bears R, turn L down a steep concrete lane signposted ‘ΟΔΟΣ ΚΟΣΜΑ ΠΑΥΛΟΠΟΥΛΟΥ’ (ODOS KOSMA PAYLOPOYLOY) to reach Hotel O Spérhos (6hr).
STAGE 3
Áno Lousí (1050m) to Tourládha (750m) via Planitéro (590m)
| Start point | Áno Lousí |
| Distance | 17km (+ 1km for Cave of the Lakes detour) |
| Difficulty | 2 |
| Walking time | 6hr (+ 1hr–1hr 30min for Cave of the Lakes guided tour) |
| Height gain | 450m |
| Height loss | 750m |
| Waymarks | E4 (yellow + black) all the way |
This is another longish day but, apart from a short steep climb in the afternoon, it is largely downhill. You’re following the E4 trail, but out of step with its daily stages. Long views stretch over fertile valleys and half-forgotten villages to serrated skylines. The terrain is a mix of meadows (flower-speckled in spring, dry thereafter) and Greek maquis (prickly kermes oak), stony underfoot, with little forest. This is the classic pastoral landscape of ancient Arcadia (although it now belongs to the administrative region of Achaia), and you may well meet shepherds tending their flocks. It is best to set off early, to allow time for the Cave of the Lakes detour (an additional 1hr–1hr 30min). In the afternoon, you pass the pretty village of Planitéro and the plane-shaded springs of the Aroánios river (possibility of rooms c/o Panayiótis ‘Belénis’ Melitsópoulos, tel 26920-31831, mob 697-2058496, mob 697-6699898).
The only reliable accommodation is in Káto Klitoría (also called Mazéïka), a friendly little market town 5km off the walking route, with an excellent hotel (Mont Helmos, tel 26920-31221, http://monthelmos.gr), several tavernas and an English-speaking taxi driver (Andréas Kazánis, mob 697-3819130) who can collect you from Tourládha (or elsewhere) and bring you back the following day to resume the route; book him a day ahead and take a mobile phone in case timings change.
