The Camino Portugues. Kat Davis

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Built in 1917, grapevines surround the large wine barrel-like round windows. Go straight into Rua Fernando Palha. At the next junction cross Av Infante Dom Henrique, turning left then immediately right onto Rua do Vale Formoso. Follow this for 1.2km before going through an underpass then take the first right onto Rua Gaivotas em Terra, then left onto Av Fernando Pessoa. Pass a Pingo Doce supermarket (LHS) before reaching a roundabout at the beginning of the Parque das Nações. 4.8km/7.5km

      Developed for the 1998 World Expo, ‘Nations Park’ includes an Oceanarium, Casino, Vasco da Gama Tower, cable car, gardens, monuments and the impressive Oriente station, designed by Santiago Calatrava.

      Accommodation nearby: Pousada de Juventude-Parque das Nações (Rua de Moscavide, tel 218 920 890, www.pousadasjuventude.pt, shared and private rooms, kitchen, €16+, +2.1km). TRYP Lisboa Oriente (Av Dom João II, tel 218 930 000, www.tryporiente.com, +1km). ***Hotel Ibis Lisboa Parque das Nações (Rua do Mar Vermelho, tel 213 180 049, www.ibis.com, +1.1km). ****VIP Executive Arts Hotel (Av Dom João II 47, tel 210 020 400, www.viphotels.com, +1.4km).

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      Vasco da Gama Tower, Parque das Nações

      Cross the roundabout, passing the large Pavilhão do Conhecimento (science and technology museum, RHS), then turn right through the trees towards the Oceanarium and the River Tagus. This is the longest waterway in Portugal and Spain, running for approximately 1007km from Spain’s Serra de Albarracín to the Atlantic Ocean. Turn left to follow the river for the next 4km through the expo development. (For Oriente station and Vasco da Gama Mall with shops, supermarket and food court, turn left at the MEO Arena.) Pass the sail-shaped Vasco da Gama Tower. Vasco da Gama (1460–1524) was the first explorer to sail from Europe to India. The observation tower (145m) is Lisbon’s tallest building. About 800m further on, pass a statue of Queen Catherine of Braganza then join a wooden boardwalk and go under Ponte Vasco da Gama (17km long!). After 1.1km reach the Trancão tributary and turn left, following the tributary under the IC2 and railway tracks (Sacavém station is on the LHS) to reach the N10 in Sacavém. The slightly hidden petrol station (LHS) sells water and there is a café diagonally left behind the park. 5.2km/12.7km

      Turn right and cross the bridge, turning left immediately onto a dirt path and down to the river past a Toyota dealership (RHS). Shortly after, turn left onto a paved road, following as it bends right, then left and under a green pipe. Go under the A1 and follow the dirt road then path beside the tributary for 2.7km until the path veers right, away from the river and becomes a dirt road. After a further 2.6km pass the ruins of the large Quinta do Monteiro Mor (RHS, 17th century, with obscene graffiti). 6.2km/18.9km

      Veer right here, then in 1.2km pass the dilapidated red Quinta do Brasileiro (RHS, with tower) and pass a small bridge (don’t cross it unless you’re going to the café in Granja +130m). Join a paved road passing factories then KSO across the roundabout and for a further 850m into Largo de Alpriate, ending the stage at the blue-and-white painted Albergue de Peregrinos (RHS) in Alpriate. 2.9km/21.8km

      ALPRIATE, 38M

      A peaceful hamlet with two cafés and a welcoming albergue run by Via Lusitana volunteers.

      Where to eat: Café Grillus +50m, turn right after the albergue. Café Nadia +280m, opposite the soccer field.

      Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos (Largo de Alpriate 13, tel 915 595 213, www.alpriate.vialusitana.org, 12 beds, kitchen, €8).

      Alpriate to Vila Franca de Xira

Start Albergue de Peregrinos, Alpriate
Finish Vila Franca de Xira train station
Distance 19km
Total ascent 118m
Total descent 140m
Difficulty Easy
Time 5hr
Cafés Alpriate, Póvoa de Santa Iria (3.8km), Praia dos Pescadores (5.2km), Alverca (9.4km), Alhandra (15km), Vila Franca de Xira (19km)
Accommodation Alpriate, Vila Franca de Xira (19km)
Notes The route passes Alverca, Alhandra and Vila Franca de Xira train stations, providing options for alternative stages.

      This stage follows quiet back roads, dirt paths, peaceful boardwalks through wetlands and a short section along the N10 highway before joining a delightful riverside path for the approach to Vila Franca de Xira.

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      Leaving the albergue, follow the arrows in front of the yellow house then turn right onto Rua da Vinha. After 850m take the right fork onto a farm track and follow this to a paved road then turn right. Just before the tunnel, turn left onto a dirt track. KSO to reach a road (with a car yard in front) and turn right then go under the A1. Continue for 1km to a large roundabout (with a fountain) on the edge of Póvoa de Santa Iria. 3.8km

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      Joining the boardwalk in the Tagus Estuary Riverside Park

      Take the diagonal right onto the N10 and pass Café Estrela do Tejo (RHS) then take the next left, crossing a bridge over the railway tracks. KSO across a road onto a dirt path, turning left to cross a wooden bridge then passing abandoned buildings. Follow the footpath as it bends right into Praia dos Pescadores (1.4km). This is the beginning of the Tagus Estuary Riverside Park, with a café, picnic area, information boards and boardwalks. Join a boardwalk with the Tagus on the RHS. After passing a bird hide (RHS) cross the bridge, now walking along a path with a canal on the LHS. Cross two more bridges before joining a dirt road parallel to the railway tracks. Go through an underpass and KSO to reach Alverca train station opposite the Museu do Ar (Air Museum, open Mondays). 5.6km/9.4km

      Cross over the tracks through the station (café and ATM inside) and KSO onto Av Infante Dom Pedro, passing more cafés before turning right at an apartment block, then immediately left onto Rua 20 de Maio passing a small fountain. Turn right at the end, then left at the end onto a dirt path behind a school. Shortly after this, turn right to cross the canal and pass behind Alverca Futebol Clube, then continue onto a farm track. At a T-junction, turn right onto a dirt road then left onto a paved road at the beginning of an industrial area. After 650m turn left at a T-junction then KSO to a roundabout, turning right onto the N10. 2.7km/12.1km

      Carefully follow the N10 for 2.3km, passing a Pingo Doce supermarket and under two industrial chutes, then as the road begins to climb, turn right and

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