works. Alhandra train station is on the RHS. Turn right at the end of the road towards the ‘B.V.’ initials then left at the end onto Av Batista Pereira, passing Restaurant Voltar Ao Cais in Alhandra. For cafés and services take the second left on Av Sousa Martins. 2.9km/15km
Continue along the river esplanade then join the red ‘Ribeirinho’ path with benches, drinking fonts and colourful artwork. After 3.1km pass the Praça de Touros Palha Blanco bullring – across the tracks; built in 1901 and named after its founder – and shortly afterwards pass Vila Franca de Xira’s uber-modern municipal library. Continue into Jardim Municipal Constantino Palha until you reach the steps of Vila Franca de Xira station (cross the tracks for all services). 4km/19km
Bullfighting monument, Vila Franca de Xira
VILA FRANCA DE XIRA, 11M, POP. 122,908
Known throughout Portugal for horse and bull breeding as well as bullfighting, Vila Franca de Xira is a pleasant town with excellent facilities. The two annual celebrations (July and Sep/Oct) include the running of the bulls through the streets.
Tourist office: Rua Alves Redol 7, tel 263 285 605, www.cm-vfxira.pt, closed Sundays.
Visit: Mercado Municipal (1929), a market with beautiful azulejo (tile) facade, closed Sundays. Train station (1856) – azulejos line the inside of the station and platforms.
Specialities: Shad river fish, Leziria and Garraios sweet pastries.
Where to eat: Churrasqueira A Canoa for delicious BBQ, a one-minute walk from the town hall. Restaurante O Retiro (slightly further) for traditional meals. Pastelaria Franca Leziria near the station for all things sweet.
Accommodation: Guesthouse Vilatejo, formerly ‘Pensão Ribatejana’ (Rua da Praia 2A, tel 263 272 991, shared & private rooms, €15+, next to the station). Residencial Flora (Rua Noel Perdigão 6, tel 263 271 272, 22 rooms, €33+, has a luggage transport service). Hospedaria Maioral (Travessa do Terreirinho 2, tel 263 274 370, 10 rooms, €30+, next to the tourist office).
STAGE 3
Vila Franca de Xira to Azambuja
| Start | Vila Franca de Xira train station |
| Finish | Praça do Município, Azambuja |
| Distance | 19.5km |
| Total ascent | 80m |
| Total descent | 75m |
| Difficulty | Easy |
| Time | 5hr |
| Cafés | Vila Franca de Xira, Castenheira do Ribatejo station (4.5km) Carregado (7.3km), Vila Nova da Rainha (12km), Azambuja (19.5km) |
| Accommodation | Vila Franca de Xira, Azambuja (19.5km) |
| Note | The Camino has been re-routed off the highway in many places; make sure to follow the new arrows. |
This relatively short stage follows small busy roads, quiet dirt roads parallel to railway tracks, a short section along the N3, and passes no fewer than five train stations. Look out for wildflowers in season.
From the station steps, continue to the end of the municipal gardens, turning right then left onto a minor road. Go under the N10, then after 750m pass the turnoff for the Sim Tejo factory (RHS) and take the second right onto a dirt road bringing you parallel to the railway tracks. After 1.1km veer right then left around the electric sub-station, continuing parallel to the tracks along dirt then paved roads and passing Castenheira do Ribatejo station (café inside). 4.5km
After 1.6km go straight across a roundabout then at the T-junction turn left, then left at the multi-coloured wall and go up and over the tracks at Carregado station (2.8km). Exiting the station (cafés left and right), turn right, then turn left at the end and follow a canal for 850m before turning right to cross a bridge over the canal. Carefully follow the road for 3.4km (passing the Carregado Thermoelectric Power Plant, going under the A10 and past the Fátima 100km marker) to reach the N3 in Vila Nova da Rainha. 7.3/11.8km
Turn right onto the N3, pass the popular truck-stop Restaurant O Velhote (RHS) then turn right at traffic lights, following the ‘Apeadeiro’ sign to Vila Nova da Rainha station. Cross the tracks and turn left onto a dirt road through the gate (going around it if it’s locked) and KSO. After 2.8km pass Espadanal da Azambuja station, then after a further 2.7km (having passed a water treatment plant and before the next underpass) turn left onto a paved path and go under the railway tracks. On reaching the N3, turn right and pass a petrol station with Ouro Hotel behind then turn left at the roundabout. Turn right at the next roundabout onto Av do Valverde, passing the bullring, then KSO onto Rua Eng Moniz da Maia, passing the library and tourist office before arriving at Praça do Município (LHS) in Azambuja. 7.7km/19.5km
Praça do Município, Azambuja
AZAMBUJA, 17M, POP. 20,837
Officially settled in the 13th century, the compact town of Azambuja has a small albergue and also celebrates the running of the bulls during its annual May Fair.
Tourist office: Rua Eng Moniz da Maia 29, tel 263 400 476, www.cm-azambuja.pt, closed weekends.
Visit: Azambuja Municipal Museum, Av do Valverde, www.cm-azambuja.pt, closed Mon–Tues. Igreja Matriz: 16th-century church with 17th-century azulejos (tiles) lining the inside walls and a Baroque altarpiece.
Specialities: Stewed or fried eel (enguias); delicious queijadinhas (almond/lemon tart) from Favorita.
Where to eat: Favorita, opposite the tourist office (closed Mondays). Restaurant Flor de Sal in Atrium Azambuja.
Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos (Rua Espírito Santo 1, tel 914 103 807 (no reservations), 12 beds, kitchen, €5 minimum donation, open 3pm. Access: continue along Rua Eng Moniz da Maia for 200m then turn left into Largo de Palmela. Go up the stairs and turn right – the albergue (no.1) is on the RHS). Ouro Hotel (Antigo Campo da Feira, tel 263 406 530, www.ourohotel.net, 37 rooms, €35+, behind the Ouro Negro petrol station). Residencial Flor da Primavera (Rua Conselheiro Frederico Arouca 19, tel 263 402 545, www.flordaprimavera.pt, 8 rooms, €25+, on the Camino).
STAGE 4
Azambuja
