ID for security reasons.
Northern Ireland Visa Information: www.gov.uk/check-uk-visa
Republic of Ireland Visa Information: www.dfa.ie/travel/visas
Packed and ready to fly – George Best International Airport; Irish mainline trains have cycle spaces that should be booked in advance
Getting around
See Appendix A for contact information for public transport operators.
Trains
In the Irish Republic, booked bicycles are carried free on nearly all inter-city rail services (with some peak-time restrictions) although there is limited space (usually three or four cycles). Cycle reservations should be made at the same time as buying passenger tickets on the Irish Rail website (www.irishrail.ie). For the latest information follow the ‘Travel Information’ then ‘Bicycle Information’ links from the Irish Rail home page.
In Northern Ireland, public transport comes under the Translink banner. On trains, cycles are carried free on all services after 9.30am.
Buses
In the Republic, Bus Éireann will carry bicycles in the bus luggage compartment if there is space. If you are leaving from a bus station, buy a ticket before boarding, as well as a separate ticket for the bike. In rural areas, during the day and during the week, many services are nearly empty. If there is just one or two of you, a bus hop is a practical way of extending your range, and the network is comprehensive.
In Northern Ireland, buses also come under the Translink umbrella. Up to two cycles can be carried in the luggage bay of express services (called Goldline Express) after 9.30am, but again this is subject to space. There are no reservations.
When to go
My favourite months for cycling in Ireland are May, June and September. Experience and the statistics suggest that May and June, especially in the north, are as dry as, if not drier than, the rest of the summer, while September is a golden month in which to watch the harvest and notice the first colours of autumn in the trees.
The Irish tourist season effectively runs from Easter to the end of September, and that is the practical limit for cycle touring too. Outside these months, the weather is too cold and unreliable, the days too short, and campsites and some other types of accommodation close.
Tourist numbers peak during July and August. Travelling at peak times is not a problem – it just pays to plan ahead a little more, as accommodation can fill up.
The Spanish Armada ship La Trinidad Valencera was wrecked off Kinnagoe Bay on 16 September 1588 (Route 1, Stage 1)
Accommodation
Hostels
Official Irish youth hostels are run by An Óige. A membership card is not required, although a card from an affiliated youth hostel association usually secures a small discount. Many youth hostels have closed in recent years, and there are gaps in the network, but independent hostels have stepped into the breach.
There are two associations of independent hostels in Ireland: the Independent Holiday Hostels of Ireland (IHH) and the Independent Hostels of Ireland (IHI). An Óige and these two these groups all publish very useful maps of their hostels. The IHI and IHH maps cover all of Ireland, and the An Óige map includes the Hostelling International Northern Ireland (HINI) hostels as well as the RoI ones. Look for a copy at the first hostel you stay at, or get it from a tourist office. Dormitory beds cost on average about €20, with private rooms typically about €25–30 per person.
Some of the hostels allow camping, which saves a bit of money (this varies) and allows you to still use the hostel’s facilities.
Camping
Ireland has a scattering of official campsites. Generally, sites are more plentiful as you head south and west. The best source of information is the Irish Camping and Caravan Council. Most touring sites are members and they are listed on the council website and in their annual Caravan and Camping Guide. Copies are available from tourist offices or you can order one online for a small fee. Supplementing this list is a handful of local authority-run sites and forest parks as well as unaffiliated sites.
Sites usually charge per person, not per tent, and cyclists are usually charged €11–15 each. Sometimes there is a €1 charge for a token for a hot shower.
There is no right to wild camp anywhere on the island. Seeking permission from landowners is not easy, as in remote areas it is hard to find someone to ask. But in some of the quieter corners of Ireland where there are no official sites, such as Donegal and perhaps Connemara, wild camping on or near the beach or in the high country is possible. Ordnance Survey maps (1:50,000) are good for ferreting out potential places. Setting up as it gets dark and leaving early are both a good idea. Be exceptionally clean, well behaved, and, if you do meet anyone, polite. ‘No Camping’ signs are getting more common, so don’t ruin the few wild possibilities remaining.
Bed and breakfast
If there is an open tourist office in town, they will often find you a bed and breakfast, for a booking fee (about €5), but it is best to be prepared with at least a few numbers to call yourself. The annual Definitive Irish Bed and Breakfast and Self Catering Guide, produced by B&B Ireland, is comprehensive and not too bulky.
Expect to pay €35–40 per person sharing, and €50–60 for a single. Some pubs also offer bed and breakfast accommodation – look for signs.
See Appendix A for some useful websites for finding accommodation.
Castletownberehaven was once a Royal Navy port (Route 6, Stage 2)
Health and safety
Emergencies
Dialling 112 or 999 will put you through to the emergency services – fire, police, ambulance or mountain rescue.
Crime
The police in the Republic of Ireland are the Gardaí (pronounced ‘gardee’, sometimes known colloquially as ‘the guards’), or, in the singular, Garda – but if you ask for the police, people will usually know what you mean. For non-emergency police matters, contact the nearest Garda station, or in Northern Ireland, police station. In the Republic, the nationwide free Irish Tourist Assistance Service aims to help with the practical and emotional aftermath of crime (01 6610562, www.itas.ie).
When travelling in Ireland it is sensible to take reasonable precautions against crime, without being paranoid.
Healthcare and insurance
Both the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland have public healthcare systems, but access to free treatment is by no means guaranteed for visitors. Since costs such as property loss or damage, legal
