The Wild Atlantic Way and Western Ireland. Tom Cooper

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eating out you might just get away with €150 per day each if you share a room. A double room in a modern hotel during the summer will cost around €130. A single room will not be much cheaper. At smaller, usually older, hotels you may find double rooms from €80 or so.

      Post

      The rural post office network is clinging on in rural Ireland although opening hours are often short and sometimes only a couple of days a week. On most days you will pass through at least one small town with a post office: look for a ‘Post’ sign on a green background.

      For postal rates see www.anpost.ie or www.royalmail.com for Northern Ireland.

      Phones

       Ireland: international code +353

       Northern Ireland: international code +44

       international prefix (north and south) 00

      The Irish phone system is complicated by the fact you are dealing with two countries with two international codes. The numbers in the text assume you are calling from within the country in question – for example Republic of Ireland from Republic of Ireland. When dialling from the Republic of Ireland to a fixed line in Northern Ireland, the 028 code is replaced with 048. This does not work calling mobiles – use the full international code and prefix. When calling from Northern Ireland to the Republic, dial the full international prefix and code.

      Calling Republic of Ireland numbers

      The Dublin Visitor Centre’s number is 01 8980700, so:

       from Northern Ireland or elsewhere in UK dial 00 353 1 8980700

       from the Republic of Ireland dial 01 8980700

       from overseas dial local international prefix + 353 1 8980700.

      Calling Northern Ireland numbers

      For example, the Belfast Welcome Centre number is 028 90246609, so:

       from Northern Ireland or elsewhere in UK dial 028 90246609

       from the Republic of Ireland dial 048 90246609

       from overseas dial local international prefix +44 28 90246609.

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      The traditional Irish farmhouse is increasingly hard to find (Route 1, Stage 2)

      Mobile phones

      A mobile phone is the most convenient and often the cheapest way to stay in touch when in Ireland. In the Republic the major networks are Meteor, Three and Vodafone. Coverage is almost universal although there are a few blank spots on hill-bound coasts. Northern Ireland is covered by UK operators. If you are bringing a phone from overseas check it is compatible with Irish networks. Some US network phones, for example, will not work.

      Mobile phone rates are now capped for EU travellers travelling within the EU but beware that if your home network is outside of Europe these EU-imposed limits for call and data charges may not apply.

      Getting your phone unlocked, to work on any network, before you travel gives you the option of buying a SIM card in Ireland. Check out the prices and do the sums, but for most UK and EU travellers their existing phone/SIM will be the best option.

      Don’t forget mobile charger and plug adaptor if you need it – all of Ireland has UK-style three-pin plug sockets.

      Payphones

      Phone boxes have almost completely disappeared from Ireland but If you happen to pass one, calls cost €2 minimum.

      Internet

      3G mobile data services are assured in most towns. In some rural areas coverage is patchy. 4G networks are being rolled out. WiFi hotspots are easy to find in major centres with cafés, restaurants and transport hubs often having free access. Most tourist accommodation will also have free or cheap WiFi access. Internet cafés have almost completely disappeared so take some sort of device – a laptop, mobile or tablet – with you if you want to be sure you can connect to make, for example, travel bookings.

      Traffic and driving

      Ireland has speed limits and distance signs in kilometres. The start of Route 1 is in Northern Ireland which uses miles. The signage scheme is different in the two countries, but similar enough to not cause any confusion.

      In both countries, motorways have an M prefix and cycles are not allowed on these roads.

      In the Republic there are national ‘N’ roads (100km/h limit), regional ‘R’ roads (80km/h) and local roads (also 80km/h). There is a general limit of 50km/h in built-up areas and other limits are signed. Speed limits are widely ignored unless there is a chance of getting caught. N roads are divided into primary and secondary routes, with a figure higher than 50 (eg N87) indicating a secondary route.

      Cycling on N roads can be quick, but there is generally too much fast, heavy traffic to make this a comfortable experience. Some of the R roads are just as bad. The few N road sections in this book are either in quiet areas, or are short, unavoidable stretches.

      The routes in this book are built, where possible, around local roads. Typically these are not quite wide enough for two cars to pass without slowing down. They are sealed (tarmac) roads. The quality of the surface varies considerably. Irish roads often break up or suffer subsidence on their edges. Always keep an eye out for potholes, especially on steep descents – if you hit them at speed they can throw you off your bike.

      Smaller roads all over Ireland are generally not well graded (that is, they have many short and steep climbs). In some areas this can make for rollercoaster roads, and very slow progress.

      Dedicated cycle tracks are most often encountered leading into towns and cities but these are often only separated from the traffic with a painted line. Cycle tracks are generally marked with a cycle symbol painted on the road or pavement surface or, less commonly, with a round blue sign with a white cycle symbol.

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      Author riding a new stretch of cycle track between Dungloe and Lettermacaward (Route 1, Stage 7)

      OFFICIAL CYCLE ROUTES IN IRELAND

      The Kingfisher Trail (NCN91) was Ireland’s first signed long-distance cycle route and, crossing as it does between Northern Ireland and the Republic, was symbolic of improved cross-border relations in the wake of the Good Friday agreement. It is a figure of eight route following over 360km (230 miles) of minor roads through the border counties of Fermanagh, Leitrim, Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan and can be joined at Beleek, 8km inland from Ballyshannon (on Route 2).

      A map of this route and other long-distance routes in Northern Ireland is available from Sustrans (www.sustrans.org.uk).

      Greenways are a new

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