Walking in the Bavarian Alps. Grant Bourne
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Prinz-Luitpold-Haus enjoys a superb position on the edge of a cirque, above a small mountain lake. Surrounded by stunning mountain scenery, the hut is a popular base for rock climbing (grades I–VIII) on the Fuchskarspitze (2314m), as well as for the ascent of nearby peaks such as the Hochvogel (2592m) and Wiedemerkopf (2163m). It is also the starting point for a beautiful alpine walk, which follows the Jubiläumsweg (also a section of the Via Alpina) and the Saalfelder Höhenweg to Landsberger Hut in Austria.
Of the various routes to Prinz-Luitpold-Haus, two of the most attractive (and easiest) for average mountain walkers are mentioned here. Assuming you take advantage of the bus to Giebel Haus, the shortest route is from Hindelang-Hinterstein – the walk from Hinterstein along the lovely Ostrach valley would require 2½hr and an overnight stay at the hut. The longer alternative from Edmund-Probst-Haus has the advantage that the trail already starts at a high altitude, with no major climbs or descents all the way to Prinz-Luitpold. Combined with this high-level section of Walk 5 from Edmund-Probst-Haus as far as the Schneck, this route becomes a magnificent multi-day alpine tour – long stretches also form part of the Via Alpina long-distance trail.
At Prinz-Luitpold-Haus
From Edmund-Probst-Haus via Laufbacher Eck (4½hr)
See Walk 5 for a description of this scenic alpine route to Prinz-Luitpold-Haus from Oberstdorf. Spend the night at the hut.
Ascent from Giebel Haus (2½–3hr)
From the large car park ‘Auf der Höh’ in Bad Hindelang-Hinterstein, catch the bus to Giebel Haus (1066m; 20min trip). Cross a bridge just south of the restaurant, and continue uphill along an asphalt road (closed to private cars). After about 50min on this shady stretch through the Bärgündeletal a signposted track bears left off the road. It descends to the Bärgündelesbach, which is crossed on a footbridge. Now the trail climbs picturesquely through woods and past an impressive waterfall to Untere Bärgündele Alpe (refreshments in summer). From here the trail climbs steeply along grassy slopes sprinkled with flowers, and past more waterfalls, to Prinz-Luitpold-Haus (70min from Bärgündele Alpe).
A waterfall on the climb up from Giebel Haus
Onwards from Prinz-Luitpold Haus
Continue along the Jubiläumsweg (path 421) in a northeasterly direction towards the Bockkarscharte (2164m). The saddle is reached after a steep 1hr climb. There are splendid views of the Höfats and Schneck to the southwest and the Hochvogel to the south, while in the east is the Lailachspitze in the Tannheim Valley. Ahead the onward route is plainly visible: a steep zigzag descent over loose rock below the Glasfelder Kopf (2271m), then more comfortably past the Sattelkopf and the Schänzlekopf.
En route to the Lahnerkopf and the Lahnerscharte there are fine views down into the Austrian Schwarzwassertal – the trail has been running through Austrian territory since leaving the Bockkarscharte. At the saddle itself the view extends down to the idyllically situated Schrecksee, on the German side of the border. Instead of taking the trail left, down to the lake, continue right along the Saalfelder Höhenweg (path 421) towards Landsberger Hut.
At the Kastenjoch (1875m), where a trail on the left runs northwest back to Schrecksee, the track connects with the route from Landsberger Hut described in Walk 13. This section of Walk 13 is now done in reverse, skirting the western flanks of the Steinkarspitze and passing below the Rote Spitze before reaching the hut (5hr from Prinz-Luitpold-Haus, 7½–8hr from Giebel Haus).
The next day, descend along path 425 via Traualpsee to the northern end of Vilsalpsee (1½hr). Here it is possible to catch a bus to Tannheim, or you can walk down in 1hr. As an alternative, follow the route described in Walk 13 to the Neunerköpfle and the gondola-lift in reverse (2hr).
WALK 7
Gerstruben
Start | Oberstdorf |
Distance | 12.2km (7½ miles) |
Total ascent | 399m (1309ft) |
Total descent | 399m (1309ft) |
Grade | 1 |
Time | 3½hr |
Maps | Kompass-Wanderkarte No 3: Allgäuer Alpen – Kleinwalsertal |
Refreshments | Gasthof Gerstruben, Café Jägerstand |
Transport | Local bus (Ortsbus) to bus stop Nebelhornbahn |
Parking | Car park (parking fee) next to Nebelhornbahn |
The tiny settlement of Gerstruben was founded centuries ago by Valaisian migrants from Switzerland. Its picturesque farmhouses are reminiscent of those that can still be found in the Valais to this day. The small church with the Höfats in the background is a popular photo motif. Light refreshments and meals are available at Gasthof Gerstruben.
Start at the bridge over the Trettach, a short distance south of the Nebelhorn cable railway. Do not cross the river, but keep it on your left, and follow a track through woods which climbs up and away from the river – signposted Moorweiher. A bit further on, at a fork, take the trail signposted Moorschwimmbad – Moorweiher. Pass through meadows then, at the Moorschwimmbad (Moor Baths), continue on the signposted route to the Moorweiher. In about 5min you will reach this pond, situated idyllically on the edge of an upland moor.
The onward trail to Gerstruben leads through woods, along the edge of Oberstdorf’s golf course, to a small asphalt road. Turn left and follow the road uphill to a fork. Here take the road branching left to a bridge (Zwingbrücke) over the Trettach. On the other side the trail going left runs back to Oberstdorf in 1hr. The route continues right towards Gerstruben and soon reaches another fork. It is now easiest to follow the paved road that climbs directly to Gerstruben on your left, but the more interesting alternative is to continue right along the trail to the picturesque Hölltobel (Hell Gully).
What was at first a paved road soon deteriorates to gravel as it threads its way through pastures with a wonderful view to the mountains further south. After some 15min a narrow trail turns sharp left off the road and brings you to the wooded slopes concealing the Hölltobel.
Accompanied by the sound of rushing water, as the Dietersbach stream squeezes its way through a narrow corset of rock, you climb steeply alongside the gorge. At several places platforms allow a bird’s-eye view over the narrow chasm, and a little higher, you can clamber over a rock to view an impressive waterfall. After ½hr climbing the track reaches the asphalt road again and it is only a few minutes’ walk to Gerstruben.