Oberstdorf railway station to Baad at the end of the valley.
OBERSTDORF (WALKS 1–8)
Tourist office: Tourist-Information in Oberstdorf Haus, Prinzregenten-Platz 1, D-87561 Oberstdorf. Tel (08322) 700–0, www.oberstdorf.de, [email protected]. Tourist-Information, Bahnhofplatz (opposite railway station), tel (08322) 700 417 (accommodation service).
Oberstdorf can be reached by train from Munich and is popular as a tourist resort in both summer and winter. Although not unattractive, this modern-looking town lacks the rural charm of some of the smaller settlements in this region (in 1865 a devastating fire destroyed most of the older buildings). It is well served with a good range of accommodation (campsite, youth hostel and hotels in all price categories) and offers all the usual tourist facilities.
Oberstdorf provides a good range of restaurants and accommodation for its guests
WALK 1
The Nagelfluhkette: a ridge walk between the Mittagberg and Stuiben
| Start | Immenstadt, north of Oberstdorf |
| Distance | 13.5km (8 miles) |
| Total ascent | 514m (1686ft) |
| Total descent | 1234m (4048ft) |
| Grade | 2 |
| Time | 5hr |
| Maps | Kompass-Wanderkarte No 3: Allgäuer Alpen – Kleinwalsertal |
| Refreshments | Bergstation Mittagbahn, Alpe Gund |
| Transport | Regular trains from Oberstdorf |
| Parking | Car park next to Mittagbahn chairlift |
| Note | Although this route offers no extreme difficulties, some exposed sections require care. It is best undertaken in dry and stable weather conditions. |
The Nagelfluh Chain extends for some 25km from Mittagberg, near Immenstadt, to the Hohe Häderich in Austria. It takes its name from the characteristic ‘nagelfluh’ rock, a type of conglomerate composed of smaller stones cemented together millions of years ago during the Pleistocene. In many ways this walk introduces much that is typical of walks in the region: unobstructed views of the main Allgäu chain and the lowlands to the north; in spring and summer a profusion of wildflowers; tracks flanked by steep grassy slopes on the one side and sheer cliffs on the other; the tinkling of cowbells from lonely alpine pastures; and alm huts offering milk and cheese produced on the spot.
The two-stage Mittagbahn chairlift brings walkers comfortably to the top of the Mittagberg, thus saving a roughly 2hr ascent. From the Bergstation (upper terminus) an easy trail leads in a southwesterly direction to a cross and memorial to one of the last brown bears that was shot here in 1746. A short detour to the modest peak of the Bärenkopf (1476m) can be undertaken from this spot. Otherwise, the onward route is clearly visible: at first continue comfortably a short distance along grassy slopes then, on reaching a lightly wooded, narrow section of the ridge the trail begins its steep – and, in summer, very sweaty – ascent to the Steineberg.
Shortly before the last section of the climb to the Steineberg summit cross the trail swings sharp left (south), before climbing steeply to the cliffs below the summit. This brings you to the ladder, which climbs directly to the summit cross. To avoid the ladder follow a narrow trail, which continues from the ladder and below the cliffs, before curving back to the summit along a harmless grass slope.
From here it is fairly easy going along the ridge towards the Stuiben, which is already visible in the distance. Wire ropes aid walkers on a few more exposed sections of track and most usefully along one easy traverse down a bare rock face. In early summer, the grass slopes along the trail are dotted with dark blue gentians, wild orchids and other wildflowers.
Exposed section of track en route to Stuiben
Not long after passing the intersection with the trail leading directly down to Alpe Gund (or Gund Alpe), the track begins its steep climb up the Stuiben. Just before the summit, wire ropes aid your ascent along a steeply falling section of rock. Then it is an easy stroll to the summit cross and a splendid panoramic view.
Descend from the summit along a clear trail, which takes you in around 20min to Alpe Gund (accommodation and simple refreshments in summer). Continue from the east side of the alm hut in a (signposted) northeasterly direction – this route does not follow the gravel road down to Immenstadt via Mittelberg Alpe on the other side of the hut. Pass a trail up to the Steineberg and follow the signposted track to Immenstadt. It winds attractively through fields and lightly wooded slopes towards Hintere Krumbach Alpe. After reaching the broad meadows below the alm hut the trail crosses a simple log bridge over a stream, climbs briefly left, then descends through the woods. It takes you in roughly 40min to a gravel road where you turn right to Immenstadt (signposted).
Now follow the road past Jagdhaus Ornach (hunting lodge) to a small wooden chapel and picnic tables. A bit further on you have the choice of continuing along the road, or you can follow the more interesting Steigbachtobelweg, which runs just below the road through a lovely little gorge. Near the outskirts of Immenstadt those who followed the Tobelweg will arrive at a junction. Either go right over a wooden bridge to the valley station of the Mittagbahn or continue straight ahead to town and the railway station (10min).
WALK 2
Over the Großer Ochsenkopf to Riedberger Horn
| Start | Bolsterlang |
| Distance | 12.2km (7½ miles) |
| Total ascent | 461m (1512ft) |
| Total descent | 1020m (3346ft) |
| Grade | 1 |
| Time | 4½hr |
| Maps | Kompass-Wanderkarte No 3: Allgäuer Alpen – Kleinwalsertal |
| Refreshments | Schwaben Haus, Bolgen Alpe, Zunkleiten Alpe |
| Transport | Regular bus service from Oberstdorf (complicated timetable) |
| Parking | Car park at the Bolsterlanger Hörnerbahn |
| Accommodation | Schwaben Haus |
Although not alpine in character, the ridge walk between Ochsenkopf and Riedberger Horn offers plenty of fine views to the higher mountains further south, and provides a good impression of the alm pastureland that is so typical of the Allgäu’s grass-covered lower peaks. It is an easy walk with no major climbs and can be walked from spring to late autumn.
The Bolsterlanger Hörnerbahn (gondola-lift; www.hoernerbahn.de) takes you in less than 10min to an altitude of 1500m. At the top there is a magnificent view over the Iller Valley, and both the Großer Ochsenkopf and Riedberger Horn, the goals of this walk, are clearly visible to the west.
From the upper station of the two-stage gondola-lift an easy path leads to Schwaben Haus. Most walkers who want to climb the Riedberger Horn continue straight ahead from the hut. This is the easiest but least interesting route. It is much more interesting to turn right just before the hut and to climb steeply uphill towards the Großer Ochsenkopf. After gaining about 100m in altitude the path from the Weiherkopf is joined and followed left along the ridge (westwards) to the summit of the Ochsenkopf (1662m). Marked by a wooden cross, and covered by bilberry (blueberry) bushes, there are nevertheless enough grassy patches where you can recline and admire the views. To the north the Nagelfluhkette ridge
