mountain walkers with its acrobatic flight techniques and the undivided interest it shows in the contents of one’s lunch box. Ptarmigan are found in high alpine regions where their plumage blends in perfectly with the light grey rocks. In winter they turn snow-white (like the snow hare) so it takes a bit of luck, and a keen eye, to see them at any time of the year. Marmots usually leave you in no doubt as to their existence by emitting a shrill warning cry as soon as you approach. In some places they have grown so used to the presence of people that they are content to just stare back at you from the vicinity of their holes. The burrows which these small, furry rodents dig are quite impressive: up to 10m long and 3m deep.
Among the smaller representatives of the animal kingdom worth special mention are two species of salamander. The spotted or fire salamander (Salamandra salamandra) is found at lower altitudes on forested slopes, whereas the black alpine salamander (Salamandra atra) may be found at altitudes of up to 3000m (see also Walk 48). Both species are best observed in the early morning when dew still lies on the ground, or just after it has rained. Less common (in spite of the name) is the common viper or adder (Vipera berus), a poisonous snake which inhabits upland moors. However, as it is very shy you are unlikely to see one.
This brief survey of alpine plant and wildlife is of course by no means complete, and space precludes listing all the colourful butterflies and other insects that you may encounter during a sojourn in the mountains. See Appendix B for some useful book titles.
Getting there
By rail
Many of the base towns in this book can be reached by train, and for those travelling from the UK this can be a very relaxing way of reaching their destination. Using the Eurostar from London’s Waterloo station to Brussels, and onward via German ICE high-speed trains, it would take about 10hr to reach Munich. The overall cost might be higher than flying with a low-cost airline, however.
For more information on tickets visit the Rail Europe website www.raileurope.com. For details on train routes through Germany visit www.bahn.de.
By road
If travelling by car the excellent German motorways (Autobahn) are the quickest way south. From Frankfurt the A3, A7 and A8 take you via Munich from where the western, central and eastern regions of the Bavarian Alps are only a relatively short drive away. From Karlsruhe (near the French border and southeast of Luxemburg) the A8 and A7 provide a speedy connection to the Allgäu Alps. As an example of the distances involved, Dunkirk to Munich is 969km, Munich to Garmisch-Partenkirchen 90km.
Bavaria’s scenic roads make driving a pleasure (Berchtesgadener Land, baroque church Maria Gern in the background)
By air
The closest international airports are Munich (www.munich-airport.de) in Germany, together with those at Salzburg (www.salzburg-airport.com) or Innsbruck (www.innsbruck-airport.com) in Austria. From Munich all destinations in the Bavarian Alps are quickly reached by either train, bus or car. For international travellers the main point of entry into Germany is Frankfurt International Airport (www.frankfurt-airport.com). A railway station at the airport allows comfortable train connections to Bavaria.
Budget flights to Germany
Note that budget airlines come and go, routes change and that even large national carriers offer budget fares that may compare to those of the ‘cheap’ airlines (from the UK and Ireland). Check with your local travel agent or search the Internet for current bargains. For bargain fares from the UK, Ireland, North America and elsewhere in the world, visit (among others) www.cheapflights.co.uk, www.expedia.com, www.travelocity.com and www.statravel.com (for student travel).
Ryanair’s main port of call in Germany is presently Frankfurt-Hahn Airport (www.hahn-airport.de). There are also flights to Salzburg in Austria from Dublin and London Stansted. For more information visit www.ryanair.com.
EasyJet offers flights from London Stansted to Munich (www.easyjet.com). Eurowings (www.eurowings.com) offers flights from Dublin and various UK airports to Munich and Salzburg.
Getting around
Mittenwald is one of the prettiest towns in the Bavarian Alps
All the base towns and mountain groups in this guidebook can be easily reached via bus or train, or a combination of both. The transport system is efficient and reliable and will get you to the smallest village and the start of many routes. The bus system in Oberstdorf is especially well organised, and makes dispensing with the car a real pleasure! The ‘Alex’ trains from here to Munich also provide a comfortable connection for a day in the big city.
Details on transport to the start of a route, or from the end of a track, are given at the start of each route description. However, some routes may begin in town (for example, in Füssen, Mittenwald and Oberammergau). Oberammergau is especially interesting if you are without a car as the starting points of most of the walks described can be reached on foot.
Whether you travel around by car or bus depends on how you want to spend your holiday. Those who want to do a lot of travelling will find a car the most comfortable option. If you are content to stay in one place, or intend to spend a lot of time in mountain huts, then you can probably do without a car.
Information on timetables (Fahrpläne) and discounts for trains and buses can be obtained from the German Federal Railway’s website at www.bahn.de (also in English), and for the local bus network in Oberbayern from www.rvo-bus.de (German). See also the English-language site www.bayern.by for travel discounts.
As discounts on transport services are subject to change, it pays to enquire at the local tourist offices about current offers (or visit one of the above websites). They can also help you with timetables and so forth.
The free Kurkarte or Gästekarte (visitor’s card – see below) that you receive from your host usually allows free or discounted travel on the town and, quite often, regional buses.
Bavaria’s bus network is excellent
Accommodation
Campsites, rustic farmhouses, simple bed and breakfasts or luxury hotels combined with stunning alpine views; the Bavarian Alps offers the whole gamut of possibilities to satisfy the varied budgets of tired mountain walkers seeking shelter for the night. For those who cannot bear to leave the tops, well-equipped mountain huts ensure a measure of
