Valley walks from Ramsau
Walk 62 The Untersberg massif
Walk 63 Schellenberg Ice Cave
Walk 64 The Almbachklamm
Walk 65 Kehlstein: the Eagle’s Nest
Walk 66 Jenner
Walk 67 The Hagengebirge above Königssee
Walk 68 A three-day hike through Berchtesgaden National Park
PART VII MULTI-DAY TOURS: THE VIA ALPINA
Walk 69 Via Alpina: the Bavarian section of the Purple Trail
Walk 70 Via Alpina: the Bavarian section of the Red Trail
Appendix A Route summary table
Appendix B Further reading
Appendix C Alpine hut accommodation
Appendix D Useful addresses
Appendix E Glossary
Atop the Rubihorn (Walk 4)
PREFACE
As far as most non-German mountain walkers are concerned the Bavarian Alps lie very much in the shadow of the Austrian and Swiss Alps. This is a shame, for what this border region lacks in terms of the comparative height and extent of its mountains is more than compensated for by the diversity of its landscape and cultural attractions.
This fourth edition of the guidebook hopes to bring that diversity to the attention of more outdoor enthusiasts. Moving from west to east, the guidebook starts with a look at the Allgäu, a region renowned for its wildflowers, tranquil alpine pastures and the impossibly steep grass slopes that characterise many of its well-known peaks. Moving further east, mountain trails lead past famous castles such as Neuschwanstein, which seems to have materialised from the pages of a storybook. In the vicinity of Garmisch-Partenkirchen you can sunbathe on the grassy summit of the Wank while enjoying a fantastic bird’s-eye view over the world-famous alpine resort. At the foot of the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest mountain, a trail skirts the shores of the beautiful Eibsee, a pristine lake surpassed in beauty only by the Königssee, visited in the final section of the guidebook. Here, in the Berchtesgaden Alps, trails in the shadow of the mighty Watzmann massif lead you through a landscape of Wagnerian grandeur.
There is, of course, much more to discover along these mountain trails. Upland moors, an ice cave, remote other-worldly karst landscapes like the Steinernes Meer and wild mountain gorges such as the Höllentalklamm, Leutaschklamm and Partnachklamm are just a few of the highlights. But for those who really want to discover the full beauty of the mountains the biggest highlight will be one of the multi-day tours. Perhaps you will experience the famed alpenglow while staying at a remote hut like Kärlinger Haus (Walk 68), or spot a rare bearded vulture on the two-day hike to Leutasch in Austria (Walk 25). Above all, after a few days without the distractions and stress of urban living, you might achieve that sense of calm that only a longer sojourn in the mountains can bring.
Many of the base towns mentioned offer free travel on buses within a designated region. This makes it even easier for visitors to the Bavarian Alps to leave their cars behind and let somebody else do the driving. Not only can the start of many of the walks described be reached for free, but you also have the satisfaction of knowing you are helping the environment at the same time.
Although every attempt has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information given on the routes, floods and other natural events can erase landmarks, make it necessary to modify routes, or occasionally render a section of track unwalkable. However, a look at an up-to-date map, or a chat with hut wardens and other hikers on the spot, will ensure that such inconveniences are kept to a minimum.
Grant Bourne and Sabine Körner-Bourne, 2018
Meadow at Schönau (near Königssee, Berchtesgaden Alps)
INTRODUCTION
Those seeking alpine superlatives in the Bavarian Alps will search in vain. There are no peaks that can compete with the Matterhorn or Mont Blanc in terms of height, no glaciers of considerable extent, and even the ski slopes have a rather provincial aspect when compared to such famous resorts as Zermatt or St Moritz. Nevertheless, even without superlatives the Bavarian Alps still have their fair share of dramatic scenery. Their position between the lowlands to the north and the higher alpine regions further south offers a dramatic contrast in landscapes, and the proximity of Austria adds further to the region’s charms.
For the walker the advantages of this location are many. For example, it is never far from the valley bottom to the top of a rugged mountain peak, from a picturesque village nestling in the lush green foothills to a lonely alpine tarn. A day in the mountains could be followed by an outing to historic Salzburg (especially if you are based in either Bad Reichenhall or Berchtesgaden) or Munich from where, on a clear autumn day, the mountains seem only a stone’s throw away. One need not even go that far to enjoy a lazy day, for strung along the edge of the Alps is a succession of beautiful lakes (many of which are suitable for bathing), fairy-tale castles (around Füssen), ancient monasteries and opulent baroque churches. Folklore traditions are particularly strong in this part of Bavaria, evident in the numerous Heimatabende (evenings of folk dancing and songs) and the not-uncommon aspect of gnarled old men sporting flowing white beards and wearing lederhosen.
Tradition runs strong in Bavaria: alpenhorn concert at the Kanzelwandbahn (Walk 9)
Of the many hundreds of excellent walking trails to be explored in the Bavarian Alps only a small selection are described in detail in this book. They vary in length from a half-day to four or five days and many are circular (convenient if you have to get back to your car). Where possible, suggestions have been made for longer tours, but with the help of the recommended maps it should be possible to work out your own variations and additional routes.
History
Much of the history of what we now know as Germany is characterised by the fluctuating borders of independent and often warring duchies, princedoms and kingdoms. Bavaria’s history reflects this from the time Germanic tribes coalesced with other groups left after the retreat of the Romans in the late fifth century. This amalgam of peoples came to be known as the Baiuvarii or Bavarians.
In the sixth century Bavaria became a duchy and remained so until 1806. During this span of time its borders repeatedly changed; at one point large parts of Austria
