Walking in Abruzzo. Stuart Haines

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       Walk 4 Morrone di Pacentro and Monte Mileto

       Walk 5 The Orfento valley

       Walk 6 Caramanico and the Orfento gorge

       Walk 7 Monte Amaro from Lama Biancha

       Walk 8 Monte Amaro from La Maielletta

       Walk 9 Monte Amaro from Fonte Romana

       Walk 10 The Alento valley above Serramonacesca

       Walk 11 Monte Porrara ridge

       CORNO GRANDE AND CAMPO IMPERATORE

       Walk 12 Monte Prena and Monte Camicia

       Walk 13 Santo Stefano and Rocca Calascio

       Walk 14 The west summit of Corno Grande

       Walk 15 The east summit of Corno Grande

       Walk 16 Campo Pericoli and Pizzo Cefalone

       Walk 17 Monte Bolza ridge

       Walk 18 Pietracamela and Prati di Tivo

       Walk 19 Monte Corvo and the Val Chiarino

       MONTI DELLA LAGA

       Walk 20 Monte di Mezzo circuit from Campotosto

       Walk 21 Cima della Laghetta and Monte Gorzano

       THE ABRUZZO NATIONAL PARK

       Walk 22 Villetta Barrea and Civitella Alfedena

       Walk 23 The Val di Rose

       Walk 24 Monte La Meta and the Mainarde crest

       Walk 25 La Terratta

       Walk 26 The Scanno town and lake loop

       Walk 27 Serra del Campitello and Monte Godi

       Walk 28 Monte Marsicano

       Walk 29 Colli Alti and Bassi from Pescasseroli

       SULMONA VALLEY AND MONTE GENZANA

       Walk 30 Anversa degli Abruzzi and Castrovalva

       Walk 31 Monte Mattone from Pettorano sul Gizio

       Walk 32 Monte Genzana from Pettorano sul Gizio

       Walk 33 A tour of the Valle del Gizio

       THE SIRENTE-VELINO REGIONAL PARK

       Walk 34 Monte Sirente

       Walk 35 The Celano gorge via Fonte degli Innamorati

       Walk 36 Monte Velino

       Walk 37 Monte Ocre

       Walk 38 Fontecchio and Pagliare di Tione

       Walk 39 The Navelli plain

       THE SIMBRUINI REGIONAL PARK

       Walk 40 Monte Viglio

       Appendix A Route summary table

       Appendix B Further access information

       Appendix C Italian–English glossary

       Appendix D Useful contacts

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      Monte Prena from Vado di Feruccio (Walk 12)

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      Entering the open valley behind Monte Ocre (Walk 37)

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      Corno Grande group from Monte di Mezzo (Walks 20)

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      Campo Imperatore from Sella di Monte Aquila (Walks 14 and 16)

      It’s 7.30pm. You are standing on the tower of the isolated medieval castle, Rocca Calascio, set dramatically at 1500m on a narrow ridge in the heart of Abruzzo. Fading light is softening the seemingly endless ridges, peaks and valleys that lie in every direction; the silence is underlined by occasional barking from a hamlet below.

      One other building stands nearby. The beautiful octagonal church of Madonna della Pietà is isolated against the dramatic south east face of Corno Grande, the apex of the Apennines, 16km to the north and 1500m higher still.

      It’s early June. The day has been hot and sunny, although the hours on the trail were eased by a gentle breeze rising from the Adriatic. The air is still warm but it’s time for a light sweater.

      This is the centre of the Gran Sasso National Park. The peak and west flank of Corno Grande blaze in the sinking sun while the steep, stark east wall has fallen into shadow. You think about yesterday, when you stood on that summit and fed sweetcorn kernels to the choughs. You felt that you could see from one side of Italy to the other, while all the mountains of Abruzzo were ranged around.

      Now, slanting rays light up the ancient village of Carapelle Calvisio, lying on a lower ridge to the south. The forest has darkened, providing a fine background to the glowing tones of the beautiful old buildings.

      The peace is extraordinary and the view immense. It is easy to understand why 10th-century barons chose this place to raise their

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