rising mule track. As you approach the tree line, the path steepens into a series of zig-zags to reach the junction with the route up from Roccacaramanico, a point known as La Piscina. Out of the trees, the path soon arrives at the Rifugio Capoposto shepherds’ hut below the summit of Monte Le Mucchia.
The path enters the low rising valley running north west between Monte Le Mucchia to the north east and Monte Cimerone to the south west. It climbs gently along the right side before gradually drawing away from the valley bottom to reach a small saddle. At the saddle a further valley, still running north west, commences. The path runs for a further 500m before gaining a second small saddle. The summit of Morrone finally appears further ahead to the left. Rifugio Iaccio della Madonna lies ahead at the end of the elongated basin below the north east flank of the mountain.
Take the path that traverses left to gain the saddle between the peaks of Morrone and Cimerone. The Sulmona valley finally appears below, with the path signed ‘7’ or ‘S’, from Badia/Fonte d’Amore, reaching this same point. Head up north west and quickly turn north to reach the small depression before the summit block. The path leaves the depression to climb up and onto the ridge on the right from where it follows the crest northwards and upwards, across stones and short grass, to reach the 2061m Monte Morrone summit in just under 1km. The views are magnificent, notably of the Monte Amaro massif across the Upper Orta valley to the east and, in the opposite direction, the Sulmona valley with the peaks of the Sirente-Velino beyond.
Monte Morrone is strongly associated with the medieval hermit Pietro da Morrone, who in 1294 was persuaded to leave his primitive dwelling on the mountainside and become the new Pope, Celestine V. He performed the role as best he could, but the cap clearly didn’t fit, and just a few months after his enthronement he left the papal court to return to his simple life on the mountain. Widely condemned for dereliction of holy duty, Pietro was arrested by his successor and jailed for ‘cowardice’ and ‘the great refusal’. He died a prisoner two years later. The church, however, soon reappraised him and in 1313 made him a saint – one of the most popular religious figures in Abruzzo to this day.
From the cross, walk about 150 metres and descend to a signpost. Turn right and follow the path over a saddle and down towards the Iaccio della Madonna rifugio (which should have been easily seen from the summit). The path is not well defined, so take your time to be sure of the right line. Go to the recently refurbished rifugio (which should have been easily seen from the summit). The path is not well defined, so take your time to be sure of the right line. Go down to the recently refurbished rifugio and imagine what life must have been like to live there…
Take a red-and-white signed path a few metres left of the rifugio that climbs out of the small valley. It soon turns right (south east) and begins a gentle descent through meadows. The views across to Amaro are again wonderful. Once below the treeline the way continues south east, partially contouring the hillside, until the descent valley (Rava del Confine ) is reached. From here it’s steeply down, zig-zagging through the forest until, finally, the unsealed road that runs along the base of the slope is reached. Turn right (south east) and stroll the easy 2km to Roccacaramanico.
Roccacaramanico
From this ancient village, which like many in Abruzzo is being slowly restored and revitalised, return to a point about 100 metres back towards the wooded slopes. Take the left fork to continue south east along the margin of the forest. The path levels at the trees and soon reaches another fork. The right-hand path is the steep ascent to La Piscina.
Go left and continue gently through the trees to the landslip – a garish 100-metre gash that has swept away the original path. Clamber down to the broken ground and take the simplest line straight across. On the far side, clamber back up and rejoin the path, which continues its shady ascent towards the ski lodge, emerging onto the meadow for the final 200 metres to Rifugio Celidonio and the car park.
WALK 4
Morrone di Pacentro and Monte Mileto
| Start/finish | Pacentro village centre (42.050044, 13.991146) |
| Distance | 19.5km |
| Total ascent/descent | 1555m |
| Difficulty | 2 (route snow-affected from about late November to May) |
| Walking time | 7hr |
| High/low points | 1920m/686m |
| Map | Majella – Carta Escursionistica (1:25,000) |
| Access | Pacentro is on the eastern side of the Sulmona valley; it is best reached from Sulmona on the SR487 that passes Sulmona cemetery. There is a regular bus service between Sulmona and Pacentro. |
| Parking | Park in the nearest allowable spot to the central Piazza Umberto 1. The bus stop is nearby. |
Viewed from all corners of the Sulmona valley, the elegant 1800m peak of Morrone di Pacentro, standing prominently above Pacentro, beckons to be climbed. The mountain looks steep and challenging from the valley, but in fact it can be visited by most fit walkers. Beyond it, unseen from below, lies the 1920m Monte Mileto – a fitting climax to the day’s explorations. The views from both peaks are sublime. The return to the historic village of Pacentro is via the rifugio at Passo San Leonardo and the ancient mule path that picks a lovely way above the Vella gorge.
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