guide
The 40 walks in this guide are for people who want to experience the beauty, and perhaps the challenges, of a quiet and remote part of the European upland. The routes, all of which have a grade for difficulty, vary from gentle strolls to serious expeditions in the mountains. Most start and finish in a village with a bar and shop.
About a quarter are easy-going – a half day or a relaxed full day, generally suitable for young and old alike. Averaging 7.5km in length, with modest amounts of up and down, they visit woods, gorges, lakes, hill tops and old villages.
Another quarter or so are of moderate difficulty – a full but straightforward day and not too taxing; suitable for occasional but fit walkers. Averaging 16km in length, with climbs and descents (some big but simple), they visit forests, mountainsides and some summits (one over 2000m!).
The rest, however, are long walks and mountain treks for those who enjoy a full day out. Usually about 17km in length, they involve a good climb (average 1300m), often on open mountainsides and along ridges. They visit 34 peaks over 2000m, including 11 of the region’s 18 summits over 2500m. They also visit the three highest points in the Apennines. A few have one or two moves of easy scrambling and a distinct alpine feel, including one (Walk 15) that involves a section of via ferrata, for which appropriate equipment is required. Others stay lower, crossing plains and passing through woods and villages. Almost all can be shortened according to time, energy, weather and personal preference.
The route descriptions all start with a box that provides information about the walk – GPS coordinates for the start point, the likely walking time (not including rests), difficulty, distance, high and low points, total ascent and descent (often a lot more than the difference between the low and high points). Difficulty is graded as 1, 2 or 3 (1 is a straightforward wander that may involve a climb; 2 is suitable for a fit walker with reasonable experience of the hills; and 3 is for those comfortable with mountain conditions, exposure, physical demands and route finding). Several of the grade 3 walks can be made grade 2 – see route descriptions for more details. The information box also includes advice on reaching the start point, where to park and which sheet map covers the route. Additional access information is given in Appendix B.
A general flavour of the walk is provided by way of an introduction, and this is followed by a detailed route description. To aid navigation, the route description shows in bold places along the way that also appear on the sketch map.
GPX tracks
GPX tracks for the routes in this guidebook are available to download free at www.cicerone.co.uk/978/GPX. A GPS device is an excellent aid to navigation, but you should also carry a map and compass and know how to use them. GPX files are provided in good faith, but neither the author nor the publisher accepts responsibility for their accuracy.
Advice for the trail
Weather
Summer, even in the mountains, is usually hot, with midday temperatures commonly in the mid-30s (°C). A lot of walks are exposed to the sun, wind and possible afternoon thunderstorms. Be prepared. A weather forecast for every village in Abruzzo can be obtained from the ‘Meteo’ section of La Repubblica newspaper (www.repubblica.it). It is in Italian, but the symbols and numbers are self-explanatory.
Managing the heat
Carry all your water for the day. Springs and fountains are often dry in summer. For the bigger climbs and longest routes you’ll need three litres on a warm day. Keep the sun off your head. Really hot days are best avoided or made manageable with a very early start. Daybreak is a special time to begin an ascent – with a little night chill still in the air.
What to take
Take insect repellent – flies sometimes fill the sheltered, vegetated valleys. They rarely bite but can be persistently irritating. Repellent around your hat brim will help. (Bugs largely disappear above the tree line.) Don’t forget a small pair of binoculars, your camera and a field guide to trees and flowers.
Especially if you are going above the tree line, take full mountain kit – strong boots and windproof hooded jacket, windproof quick-drying trousers, extra fleece, compass, whistle, map, rations and first-aid kit. Walking poles are very useful.
Sheep dogs
Sooner or later you will encounter a flock of sheep with attendant dogs. The dogs are likely to approach and bark at you (it’s their job), but will essentially keep their distance. The best option is to avoid the flock if you can. If not, walk calmly and purposefully, taking a wide, skirting line without looking at the dogs. They will desist and go as soon as they realise you are leaving and not a threat. If retreat seems the best option, keep your head lowered, don’t turn your back and don’t run.
Sheep dog and its flock
Rockfall and blocked paths
The mountains of Abruzzo are high, steep, forested and, in places, unstable. They are also covered in thick snow in winter. Every spring there are rockfalls and avalanches, and very occasionally there may be a landslip or rockfall later in the year. Although the chances of witnessing such collapses are very small, they may affect you indirectly by bringing down trees and rubble that block paths and minor access roads. Blocked paths may remain so for a long time afterwards.
The route descriptions account for all known blockages up to the end of 2017, but others will occur in due course. Be aware of the possibility and, if you find your route barred, don’t retreat straight away – it’s often localised and possible to pick a way around.
Treat the mountains with respect
Thunderstorms and mists can form very quickly and are frequent on hot afternoons. Leave notice of your intended route and parking location. Remember that the Abruzzo mountains are very large, wild and empty places – treat them with care and respect.
Remember, too, that the forest is dense and extensive – stay on a good path and always know where you are. It’s easy to become disoriented, especially on cloudy days.
In the winter, snow down to 500m is common, so paths will be obliterated and rocks icy, and there are of course fewer daylight hours. Avalanches occur every year. Don’t go out unless you are fit, experienced, well clothed and equipped (walking axes and snowshoes). You should start at or before dawn, know how to navigate and assess avalanche risk, and consult a good forecast. That said, a calm day with an azure sky, crystal air and sparkling snow is an amazing thing – don’t be too put off!
Mountain rescue
Despite all your preparation and attention, unexpected circumstances can arise and accidents do happen. If you find that you need help, call the mountain rescue service (Soccorso Alpino) on 118. (The Italian general emergency number is 113, and the European general emergency number is 112.) It is recommended that prior to travelling you buy travel insurance that covers hill walking and mountain rescue as well as the normal travel and medical risks.
THE MAIELLA NATIONAL PARK
Monte Amaro summit cross and the Valle di Femmina Morta (Walk 9)
