WALK 1
Fara San Martino gorge and Val Serviera
| Start/finish | Car park for Fara San Martino gorge (42.087945, 14.198860) |
| Distance | 16.5km |
| Total ascent/descent | 2100m |
| Difficulty | 3 (route snowbound from about November to Easter) |
| Walking time | 7hr 30min (5hr if you retrace your steps from the high point) |
| High/low points | 1675m/398m |
| Map | Majella – Carta Escursionistica (1:25,000) |
| Access | Fara San Martino is tucked under the steep east flank of the Maiella, at the outlet of the gorge. Reach it from the south via the SS84 along the foot of the massif through the villages of Palena and Lama dei Peligni. About 2km beyond Lama, at Corpi Santi, turn left onto the SP214 and follow signs for Fara, 4km further on. From the north, either take the SP214 from Pennapiedimonte via Palombaro or, from Guardiagrele, turn right off the SS81 at Piano Aventino, just north of Casoli, and follow signs for Fara which is 7km away. |
| Parking | Arriving from the south, the road descending to the village swings sharply right at a bar on the left. Turn left at this bend and follow an unsealed road, signposted ‘gole’, for about 150 metres to a parking area before the entrance to the gorge. |
A long day out exploring two spectacular and wild gorges on the eastern flank of the Maiella massif. The village of Fara San Martino, where the route starts and ends, is a famous centre of pasta production. From there the route squeezes through the narrow entrance of the silent Santo Spirito valley, then zig-zags steeply up its north-western side to the crest, before dipping gently down the other side into the even wilder Val Serviera. The return is via the Colle Bandiera overlooking Fara, with a 3km wander along lanes to regain the start point.
The full route is demanding with a lot of ascent but highly rewarding, offering wonderful and contrasting views in the remote beauty of the national park and a good chance to see chamois and golden eagles. If you prefer not to do it all, returning through the Santo Spirito valley from the path junction, the belvedere or the high point makes a very fine day in its own right.
Walk ahead between cliffs into the tight entrance of the gorge. Squeeze through – you’ll easily be able, in places, to touch both sides at once.
The eastern flank of the Maiella massif rises impressively above rolling hills just 25km from the Adriatic Sea. From the 2700m high, lunar-like plateau of Monte Amaro, deep gorges have been incised into the mountainside, cutting down through the layers of limestone to form narrow, twisting, isolated worlds overlooked by dominating cliffs.
The passage opens into a secret world, enclosed on three sides – the Santo Spirito valley. The excavations in the wider gorge beyond are of an old Benedictine monastery, which gave rise to the founding of Fara. The path leads up and into the wider gorge. Walk through the impressive valley, climbing steadily and sometimes steeply between the towering walls, for about 4km. Pass two picnic spots with fountains (often dry) and notice the changing flora as height is gained.
Towards the end the forest thickens and a path junction with a picnic table is reached. The left fork (do not follow this) carries on along the valley bottom, from here on called the Valle di Macchia Lunga, and eventually leads into the high mountain corrie of Valle Cannella and to Rifugio Manzini.
The entrance to Fara San Martino gorge
Instead, take the path on the right for Val Serviera. It twists steeply up through deep fallen leaves of the beech forest. At half-height the path trends right, leaving the trees and continuing to a tremendous belvedere. Enjoy the level going and fine views down to where you recently passed. After 1km the climb recommences, with the path zig-zagging steeply up to the left. A small deviation leads to a fountain 30 metres away. Trudge on and up to reach the crest between the valleys.
Turn left along the open ridge for 300 metres or so to reach the day’s high point where the path slants obviously rightwards on the other side and back into trees. (Don’t be tempted to go right too soon.) Descend gently into the Val Serviera, leaving the forest again and emerging onto a grassy promontory – a favoured haunt of a group of chamois (camoscia ). Carefully locate the way off the far side and go down a short rocky gully to the river. Hop across on boulders and climb briefly up to a shepherds’ hovel called Callarelli, ‘restored’ somewhat by the national park.
From Callarelli, follow the level path east (right) which contours high across the grassy slopes and ledges of the left side of the valley. The views into the gorge are breathtaking. The valley deepens and narrows as the canyon develops. The authorities permit only experienced climbers to explore the canyon – its vertical cascades can be descended only with double abseil ropes. To avoid being drawn in, the path turns left to climb briefly and steeply over a wooded shoulder into the adjacent sub-valley.
Val Serviera at Easter
From the shoulder, descend through trees to emerge at the top of a large stony gully. Snow can linger here throughout the spring but a little should present no difficulty. Descend the gully to the grassy pasture. The path levels and leads south east towards the cross on Colle Bandiera, overlooking the entrance to the Val Serviera. Shepherds’ caves are prominent across the hillside. Ignoring paths to the left, walk up to the cross.
The panorama is huge, with views back into the massif and across to Lago San Angelo, and hilltop villages scattered across the undulating countryside to the sea. Fara lies over 700m below.
Descend from the cross to join the path on the edge of the gorge. Follow it leftwards (don’t be tempted down right – a track that leads only to more shepherds’ caves). Pass a fountain and, swinging further left, begin the steady, long descent to the foot of the mountain. The good path leads north east – taking you disappointingly away from the village.
The descent is steady until, with relief, the path turns sharp right and, after a final swing northwards, turns right (east) again to continue down to end at a white 4x4 track. (If you reach a first small building before the sharp right turn, you have missed it. Retrace your steps for about 30 metres to find it.)
Turn right on the track towards Fara, about 3km away, and walk back along lanes, in places tarmacked and in others not, following occasional signposts marked ‘G3’. In general, keep near to the foot of the mountain and pass behind the Di Cecco pasta factory, always heading towards Fara.
Rivers flowing through the gorges or springing from their mouths powered small industries in the settlements along the foot of the escarpment. In Fara San Martino the waters of the Verde river, which springs between the village and the mountain, gave rise to pasta production. Several firms were established and, today, the output of the enormous De Cecco factory can be found in delicatessens around the world.
At one point walk alongside the river that flows from Val Serviera. The final stretch arrives at the bottom of Fara San Martino.
Turn right onto
