basic ikebana techniques
The basic ikebana techniques that are essential in making Japanese-style arrangements are presented in this section. They include techniques related to water absorption, cutting, stabilizing, bending and shaping, trimming and maintenance.
It is important to decide what kind of impression you want to make with an arrangement. Inspiration and a will to create are very important, but very often your ideas will only be accomplished with the help of certain of the techniques. While you should not let mastering these techniques be your sole purpose, it is a fact that having a good grasp of them will enable you to have a greater understanding of what is possible in an arrangement and this will allow your imagination to reach its potential.
WATER ABSORPTION TECHNIQUES
Water intake is one of the most fundamental techniques for a flower arrangement. Water is essential for cut plants to stay fresh and beautiful as long as possible. It is important to know the characteristics of the plants and apply the appropriate method for treating each type of cut material.
1 CUTTING UNDER WATER (MIZUKIRI)
Among the various methods of ensuring water intake, this is the most commonly used technique. This easy method involves cutting the stem under water without exposing the cut end to air. Water pressure to the cut end forces more water into the stem. This also improves the floral material’s strength to draw up water. Every flower must be cut this way before being treated by any subsequent method.
Fill a bowl or small bucket with ample water. Place the stem under water and cut the bottom end diagonally, rather than straight across, to open a wide surface for water intake. After cutting, keep the stem in the water and do not remove until ready to arrange. Cutting under water prevents floral material from absorbing air through the cut end. Air in the stem blocks full water absorption up to the neck of the flowers and to the tips of leaves and branches, causing them to wilt. To revive wilted flowers and facilitate water absorption, re-cut the end of each stem under water.
The key for successful cutting lies in the scissors. If the scissors are not clean, bacteria may invade the cutting edge. Dull scissors will cause the stem to collapse. Always use clean and well-sharpened scissors.
The mizukiri technique can be used on almost all types of flower materials, especially flowers from bulbs (tulip and hyacinth) and stems that contain water (gerbera, poppy, anemone), or stems that are thin and which twist (blue lace flowers, scabiosa).
2 POUNDING AND CRUSHING ENDS
This method is applied to hard and fibrous branches and stems, such as maple, dogwood, spiraea, clematis and balloon cotton bush. With a hammer or the handle of a pair of scissors, pound the end of a branch or stem for about 5 cm (2 in) to open up a large area to be exposed to water. The cut end of a thick branch can also be split and torn away or shaved off to expose more of the inside fiber.
This treatment enlarges the surface area of water absorption. For a branch with fresh green leaves which does not draw up water well, peel off the bark after pounding the cut end to make a large water absorption area and set it in deep water. You can get the same results by splitting the end, or making a cross cut.
3 BOILING THE STEMS
Dip the cut end of a stem into hot water for 5–10 seconds, depending on the thickness, and then immediately put it into cold water and leave it for about 2 hours in a cool place. When the stem is in hot water, the air inside the duct expands and is expelled, leaving a vacuum. The stem then contracts in cold water and pressure develops for taking up water. The temperature difference accelerates water absorption.
When dipping stems into hot water, be careful that flowers and leaves are not exposed to the steam. Wrap floral materials in news paper and expose the stems only. Boiling water is most effective but hot water also works. A higher temperature helps kill bacteria.
This technique is effective for almost any kind of floral material, especially flowers that tend to wither easily as well as field flowers, including margaret, patrinia, hollyhock, amaranthus, dahlia, peony and rose. This method is not suitable for stems that contain water, as listed on page 8 in the section on cutting under water.
4 BURNING THE STEMS
Burn the bottom of a stem with fire to facilitate water absorption as well as kill bacteria. Wrap the blossoms and leaves in wet newspaper and char the cut ends over a flame. Burn them for 1–2 minutes until the ends glow red, then put them immediately into cold water.
This is a more effective method than the boiling because it produces a much higher temperature. It is important to char the end of the stem about 1–3 cm (1½ in) up, without damaging the flowers and leaves. If too much time is spent on burning stems, the heat reaches the flowers and makes them weak. Burn stems quickly over a kitchen gas burner or use a flame torch to char them efficiently.
An additional merit of this method is that carbonated stems function like charcoal and act as a purifier for the water in an arrangement.
This method is good for materials with hard stems, including roses, miniature roses, spray mums, poinsettias and peonies, but not effective for thick stems which contain a lot of moisture.
Cutting under water
Pounding and crushing
Splitting
Boiling
Burning
5 POURING WATER ON THE UNDERSIDE
Spraying water on the reverse side of leaves prevents loss of moisture and keeps flowers fresh. For this method, hold the materials upside down and dampen the backs of the leaves with a watering pot.
This method is mainly used for materials whose stems and leaves are perishable or become too weak to apply other water absorption techniques. It is also effective for spray mums, spray roses and herbs that have many small leaves on the stems.
6 IMMERSING IN DEEP WATER
By immersing the materials in deep water, the water pressure facilitates water absorption. Water always evaporates from the surface of the cut flowers. Floral materials with many leaves or those with weak water absorption capability cannot maintain the water balance only from water uptake at the end of the stem.
Prevent as much water evaporation as possible by wrapping the floral materials in newspaper and bending or curving the stems at the same time. After wrapping, spray water on the newspaper to prevent the water from evaporating. Leave the wrapped materials in deep water for at least an hour, preferably half a day, in a cool and dark place.
This method provides materials with effective water absorption. The deeper the water level, the easier it is for the water to go upward. However, be careful about the depth because flower petals touching the water
