to be damaged.
This immersion technique is suitable for almost all materials except ones that have tiny flowers and leaves and are low in moisture. This method is effective for materials which naturally grow in damp soil, such as ranunculus, or stems that tend to bend due to large and heavy flower heads, such as roses and sunflowers.
7 USING NATURAL SUBSTANCES
In ikebana, people often use traditional substances to aid in water absorption, among them alum, vinegar, salt and alcohol. With some cut floral materials where it is very difficult to boost the amount of water absorption, special additives are needed. The methods below are effective for specific materials.
Burnt alum is effective for hydrangea, peony, hellebore (Christmas rose) and smoke tree. Put a pounded stem in water for about 10 seconds and then rub its pounded portion with burnt alum powder. Place the stem in deep water.
Vinegar is used for bamboo and bamboo grass as it prevents the leaves from drying out. Put the cut end of the stem in vinegar for about 20–30 seconds and then immerse it in water. This method is also effective for rice plant, reed grass and foxtail millet.
For plants such as allium, hyacinth, and lilac which contain mucus or milky sap, alcohol is used to enhance water absorption. Plant fluid at the end of a stem not only covers the absorption duct and prevents water intake but also makes the water in the container murky and causes the growth of bacteria. Alcohol neutralizes the fluids and cleanses the cut end. Dip the end of each stem in alcohol for about 5 minutes, then rub the end with your fingers to wash away the milky fluid. Leave it in deep water for at least 2 hours.
Pouring water.
Immersing in deep water.
Ikebana equipment.
CUTTING TECHNIQUES
Scissors are probably the single most essential tool for creating a flower arrangement. For a Japanese flower arrangement, Japanese-style scissors or hasami are used. Hasami scissors are now relatively easy to find outside of Japan. If they are not available, you can substitute them with Western floral scissors or multipurpose scissors available in hardware shops.
Use scissors for cutting most of the floral material. If you wish to cut very thick branches, use any type of blade, saw or hatchet, as appropriate.
Before sawing off tree branches outdoors, think about your final arrangement in order to avoid cutting off too much and wasting materials. Try not to damage the natural ecosystem by cutting more than you need.
SCISSORS (HASAMI) This type of scissor is called warabite-basami, meaning “fiddlehead fern-handled scissors” because the handles resemble young bracken shoots. These scissors serve various cutting purposes and can cut both slim stems and thick branches. They can also be purchased from shops that carry gardening products.
SAW AND HAMMER These tools are best used when cutting thick branches and for pounding the ends.
CUTTING A FLOWER STEM Cut a stem diagonally to make a wide area for effective water intake. When cutting, insert stems fully into the blades of the scissors. Thin stems can be neatly cut using the tips of the blades. It is easier to cut a thick stem by placing it deeper down into the scissor blades. When cutting a hollow stalk such as calla lily, place the stalk between the blades and rotate the stalk as you cut. Too much direct pressure from the blades will damage the soft tissue inside the stem.
CUTTING A BRANCH Cut a branch diagonally at the appropriate angle in order for the cut edge to rest flush against the inner wall of the container. Open the scissor handles wide, put the branch well inside the blades at an angle and cut.
When the branch is too thick to cut with a single motion of the scissors, place it well inside the blades and cut as deeply as you can. Remove the scissors and repeat the same motion until completely cut through. Another way of cutting a thick branch is to rotate the scissors down as you cut the outside, then breaking it off with both hands. A saw can be also used to cut a very thick branch.
HOW TO USE SCISSORS—HOLDING AND CUTTING
When the upper handle is gripped by the thumb and forefinger, the lower handle will fall down by gravity and open up the cutting blades of the scissors. Grasp the lower handle with all your fingers and squeeze to cut the stems and branches as you like. Handle scissors with care to avoid injuries, as the edges are sharp and the handles are hard and heavy.
Residue from plants causes the blades to rust. Wipe the blades with a cloth every time you use scissors. It is advisable to wash scissors to remove sticky residue after using and to dry them well and store in a case. Proper maintenance of scissors not only keeps them in good condition for a long time but also helps to increase the life of cut flowers.
STABILIZING TECHNIQUES
These techniques are used to set and support the flowers in a container. They are fundamental to making a long-lasting arrangement with a firm structure. Although many stabilizing techniques have been developed, two of the most common are a horizontal support (ichimonji-dome) and a cross support (jumonji-dome). Short stubs of branches are used for these stabilizing techniques.
When materials are inserted in a container without the use of these techniques, the stems are held in place by a corner or an edge of the container. Arranging in this manner causes materials to face outward and leaves an empty space in the center. Stabilizing techniques enable a stem to stand apart from the edge of the container or at a desired angle. They are highly recommended to allow you to express your imagination using few flower materials.
These techniques are often called “backstage” because they are normally not visible to viewers. A support should be placed deep inside the vase below the mouth. A cover-up technique, such as a naturally arranged leaf, can be used to disguise a stabilizing device.
1 DIRECT STAY (JIKA-DOME) This is the most basic technique. Many times stems can be fixed in place without using a support by cutting them diagonally. Place a flower inside the container with the diagonally cut end resting against the inside wall surface. The branch touches only two points of the vase: the rim and the inside wall of the vase. Cut the angle of the stem to fit flat against the inside wall of the vase to prevent slipping or rolling of the floral material.
Use this method in combination with other stabilizing techniques, such as a horizontal support or cross support.
Direct stay
Horizontal support
Cross support
Forked support
