small garlic clove, crushed
2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon, dill, or chervil
1½ cups (350 ml) mayonnaise
½ cup (125 g) sour cream or yogurt
Blend all the ingredients in a blender or food processor. Makes about 2½ cups (625 ml).
low-calorie dressings
There are many ways to cut down on fat and calories in salad dressings. Most of their calories come from the oil, which gives them a rich flavor and a slippery “mouth feel.” You can still get the same effect by using less oil and adding vegetable or chicken stock. The amount you substitute is a matter of personal taste. I’ve given proportions I like; you may want more or less oil. You can also use a little maple syrup or honey for the oil, to help add viscosity. To add rich flavors to a dressing, try adding fruit juice or tomato juice or substitute some of the richer-flavored nut oils for a milder olive or vegetable oil. The Asian Vinaigrette (page 25) is one such recipe; here are a few more.
Basic Low-Cal Vinaigrette
This dressing is to my salad repertoire what my jeans are to my wardrobe. Always there, always comfortable. It’s at home with any mixed or mesclun salad, and I often substitute my favorite herb of the day for the fennel.
3 tablespoons commercial low- or nonfat chicken stock
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon chopped fresh fennel or chives, basil, dill, or tarragon
⅛ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pour all the ingredients into a small bowl and whisk to blend them. Use immediately or refrigerate for up to a week. Makes ½ cup (125 ml).
Sun-Dried Tomato Dressing
I met David Hirsch, chef at the Moosewood Restaurant in Ithaca, New York, and author of The Moosewood Restaurant Kitchen Garden, while visiting the restaurant. I asked him if he’d share a salad dressing recipe that was low in fat. David suggests serving this robust thick and creamy dressing with greens “that are more than delicate,” such as crunchy romaine, endive, arugula (rocket), radicchio, lightly steamed vegetables, and potatoes. The dressing looks best when made with sun-dried tomatoes that have retained some of their red color. The carrots also add color as well as sweetness, fiber, and nutrition.
5 dry-packed sun-dried tomatoes
⅓ cup (50 g) raw grated carrot
1 garlic clove, minced or pressed
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1½ to 2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
1½ tablespoons minced fresh basil
Soak the tomatoes in boiling water to cover for about 15 minutes, or until they’re soft. Drain the tomatoes, reserving 2 tablespoons of the liquid. Combine all the ingredients except the fresh herbs in a blender, add ⅓ cup (85 ml) water and the reserved 2 tablespoons of drained water, and purée until smooth. Stir in the herbs. Makes 1 cup (250 ml).
Jody’s Low-Cal French Dressing
So-called French dressing is actually an American invention. This dressing is also flavored with tomatoes, but the result is very different. Jody Main contributed this recipe. On some days she is my venerable garden manager, on others she caters healthy food to conscientious companies or tests products for a natural-food store. This dressing keeps in the refrigerator for about a week.
1 cup (250 ml) tomato juice
¼ cup (55 g) tomato paste
Juice of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon honey
1 garlic clove, pressed
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon grated onion
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Combine the ingredients by rotating them in a jar with a good seal, or whisk them together in a small bowl. Makes 1½ cups (350 ml).
Salads are a perfect, tasty way to enjoy the bounty of a home garden. Here are peppers, tomatoes, garlic, and green beans—all great additions to any salad.
flower butters
Both savory and sweet butters can be made with flowers. Probably the most versatile savory butters are made from chive blossoms or nasturtium flowers. Serve these savory butters with a crisp French bread or melt them over vegetables, fish, or poultry. Or also add savory herbs, lemon juice, or other flavorings such as ground chipotle peppers or grated fresh ginger. Sweet flower butters can be made with roses, violets, lavender, and pineapple sage and are a treat on egg breads, sugar cookies, or as a mystery filling between layers of pound or sponge cake. Not all edible flowers are equally tasty. Before you prepare the blossoms taste a few petals to make sure they please your palate.
Nasturtium Butter
4 oz (125 g) unsalted butter (1 stick), room temperature
12 to 18 nasturtium flowers
2 to 4 fresh nasturtium leaves, or a few sprigs of fresh parsley
3 or 4 chive leaves (optional)
Chive Blossom Butter
4 oz (125 g) unsalted butter (1 stick), room temperature
10 to 12 large, barely open common chive flowers, florets (petal clusters) separated
2 small sprigs of fresh parsley, or 8 or 10 large chive leaves
Rose Butter
4 oz (125 g) unsalted butter (1 stick), room temperature
1 teaspoon superfine sugar, or finely granulated sugar (sometimes called baker’s sugar)
¼ teaspoon almond extract
Generous handful of organic rose petals from the fragrant old-fashioned types, such as ‘Belle of Portugal,’ any of the rugosa roses and damasks, and the ‘Eglantine’ rose (enough to yield 2 tablespoons of chopped petals)
Making any flower butter involves the same process. First, remove the petals from the flowers and wash them well in cold water—check for critters. Gently pat them dry in a towel or dry them in a salad spinner. Using a very sharp knife, mince the flowers and any leaves. (Mincing is easier if you roll the blossoms into a small ball before cutting them.) Cut a stick of room-temperature butter into 6 or 8 pieces and then mash them with a fork. When the butter is fairly soft, slowly incorporate any flavorings and the
