back of a chef’s knife. In a small frying pan, heat the oil and slowly sauté the garlic over low heat for about 5 minutes. Do not brown the garlic. Remove the garlic and slowly pour the oil over the peppers. Occasionally run a rubber spatula carefully around the sides of the jar to allow the oil to fill all the air pockets. Refrigerate.
Half an hour before using, take the peppers out of the oil and drain them. Let them come to room temperature and serve them as part of an antipasto or use them in other recipes. Makes 1 quart (1 liter).
Dried Tomatoes
Dried tomatoes have an intense flavor and can be used in a multitude of recipes, from vinaigrettes to sauces and soups. They keep for months in a cool, dark, dry place or when frozen. If you have a problem with meal moths, store the tomatoes in the freezer. To soften and rehydrate them for use in sandwiches and sauces, pour boiling water or stock over them and let them sit for a few minutes, or until the skins are soft. The liquid from the rehydrated tomatoes is great for adding flavor to dishes.
Wash the tomatoes and drain them dry. Cut the tomatoes in half (cut 2- to 3-inch [5- to 7.5-cm] paste tomatoes into three or four slices) and place them skin-side down on the dehydrator tray. Put the tray in the food dehydrator and follow the directions for drying tomatoes. Different models have different heat- and time-setting recommendations.
If you have a gas oven with a pilot light, you can put the tomatoes on racks and dry them using only the heat from the pilot light (keep the door closed). It takes about 3 days to dry tomatoes this way.
Tomatoes can also be dried in the sun in hot, arid climates. Lay the tomatoes out on a clean window screen that is plastic-coated (or otherwise not made of metal). Place the screen in a very sunny location and cover it with another screen to keep off the flies. Bring the tomatoes in at night to get them out of the dew. Depending on the weather, they will dry in 3 to 7 days. Dry them until they are leathery and not sticky.
Transfer thoroughly dried tomatoes into zippered, freezer-strength plastic bags. Store them in a cool, dry, dark closet.
Basil in Parmesan
This recipe, from Rose Marie Nichols McGee, of Nichols Garden Nursery in Oregon, is a great way to preserve the taste of basil for the winter. It’s been so popular, she’s had it in her herb catalog since 1982. As she says, “I never tire of fresh tomatoes sprinkled with this blend. Use it on salads, pasta, and fresh or cooked tomato dishes. This recipe makes a good basis for a later preparation of pesto. Small jars frozen and presented as gifts later in the year will be much appreciated.” It stays fresh in the refrigerator for one week. Freeze it for longer storage.
1 bunch fresh green basil
Approximately ¾ cup (65 g) Parmesan cheese, freshly grated
Rinse the basil and dry it in a salad spinner. Roll a handful of basil leaves into a bunch and with a sharp knife cut the leaves into a thin chiffonade. Repeat the process with the rest of the basil. You should have about 1¼ cups (55 g) chopped. In a half-pint canning jar with a tight-fitting lid, layer ¼ inch (6 mm) of Parmesan cheese on the bottom, then layer ¼ inch (6 mm) of basil, then layer another ¼ inch (6 mm) of Parmesan, and so on. Press down firmly on the top to remove any air pockets, and then sprinkle on a final layer of Parmesan. Makes about 2 cups (75 g).
PESTO
Pesto is generally defined as a paste of olive oil, garlic, nuts, Parmesan cheese, and fresh basil and is a specialty of the area around Genoa, Italy. It is served as a sauce for pasta or is used as a flavoring for soup. But many modern chefs adhere to a more general definition, making a pesto with cilantro, peanuts, and peanut oil; mint with corn oil and walnuts; or even dry, without oil. The dry pesto has fewer applications, but again, it is a way to preserve that fresh flavor. Pestos are versatile as toppings for pizza, pastas, stews, and soups. Most can be incorporated into sauces for meats and mixed with yogurt, mayonnaise, or sour cream into dressings for salads. Finally, pesto freezes well and is a way to preserve the herb’s flavor after the season is past. The following recipes are for a classic basil pesto and a dry rosemary pesto. They may be frozen in small canning jars and kept for four to six months. When freezing, leave out the cheese and add it just before serving. To prevent discoloration, place plastic wrap directly on the surface of the pesto before you freeze it.
All sorts of herbs can be used to make pesto. Rosemary is ideal for making a dry pesto to serve on minestrone soup or over a rich lamb stew.
Classic Pesto
Serve this pesto over fettuccine, or other pasta, either dry or fresh. Try combining cooked green snap beans with the noodles for a lovely variation.
3 garlic cloves
2 cups (85 g) fresh basil leaves
¼ cup (25 g) pine nuts or walnuts
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup (190 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup (45 g) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
In a blender or food processor, combine the garlic, basil leaves, nuts, salt, pepper, and half the oil. Purée, slowly adding the remaining oil. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and add the grated cheese, mixing thoroughly. Use immediately or cover with plastic wrap, since basil pesto turns brown if exposed to air. If you are going to serve this pesto over pasta, you may need to add a few tablespoons of cooking water to the pesto to make it the right consistency for the pasta. Makes approximately 1¼ cups (300 g).
Rosemary Pesto
Sometimes I make this pesto in a blender, but I find I must mince the garlic and finely chop the rosemary, or they don’t blend properly. This pesto is added to a minestrone or tomato soup or sprinkled over a pizza before baking.
3 large garlic cloves, minced
Handful of fresh Italian parsley leaves
Leaves from 2 (3-in/8-cm) sprigs of fresh rosemary
6 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
½ dried hot pepper
In a mortar, put the garlic, parsley, rosemary, Parmesan cheese, and hot pepper. Pound the ingredients with the pestle to a crumbly paste and serve. Makes about ½ cup (40 g).
mexican essentials
The following recipes are some of the building blocks of Mexican cuisine, and can enrich countless dishes. Many Mexican meals require quite a bit of preparation time, but this time commitment can be lessened for individual meals by keeping these standard components on hand.
Refried Beans
Refried beans are a staple in Mexico and one we could all use in our repertoire. I had problems making them until Luis Torres, friend and cooking maven, walked me through the process. He found I’d not been cooking the beans and oil long enough before mashing them. They were too firm to get smooth and velvety.
The thickness of the finished bean purée is a matter of taste. A thicker paste is good for burritos and tacos so they won’t drip, but a moist, creamy product is great to accompany huevos rancheros. To change the consistency of your refried beans add more or less bean liquid or water. Some cooks prefer
