reefed with coral and host a marine ecology that enthralls snorkelers and provides plenty of interest for divers. In addition, the outer islands are sufficiently far away from the effects of the mainland and deep enough into the South China Sea to boast a variety of large pelagics, although in recent years their numbers have been dropping.
These islands and the shores of the east coast generally are also, interestingly, one of the main breeding grounds for leatherback, green and hawksbill turtles. Traditionally, turtle eggs have been collected in Malaysia as they are believed, in some instances, to have aphrodisiacal qualities. This, and the killing of turtles for their flesh, has led to a huge decline in numbers. In an effort to conserve these harmless creatures, wardens and volunteers search nightly during the summer laying season for nests containing turtle eggs, incubating them in the safety of government hatcheries and releasing the young turtles into the sea. Similar schemes to ensure turtle survival operate on the three islands comprising Turtle Island Park off Sandakan, around the tiny isle of Sipadan, Sabah, and on Pulau Besar, near Melaka, off the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia.
Hawksbill turtles are commonly seen resting on the reefs of eastern Borneo.
If you see a cloud of juvenile fish or small cardinalfish like this one, look closely as there could be a frogfish lurking somewhere on the outcrop.
LOCATING MALAYSIA’S CORAL REEFS
On Peninsular Malaysia’s east coast, the best coral reefs are to be found in the nine islands that comprise Pulau Redang which, until the boom in tourism, were only inhabited by fisher folk. Redang’s natural beauty inevitably caught the eye of developers who created a golf course on the island and a hotel with scuba diving facilities. Nowadays, there is a choice of places to stay and dive. Fine corals, too, are to be found at fairly shallow depths around the two Perhentian islands and at Lang Tengah.
To the south, Pulau Tenggol has good coral formations in excellent condition and the only real wall diving in Peninsular Malaysia, while Kapas, with its exquisite white sandy beaches, offers shallow and pretty coral reefs.
Tioman, despite its beauty, is not the best place for corals. Overfishing, dynamite fishing and human influence have done much to destroy the nearby corals. Offshore and on submerged reefs the conditions are better. But because it is served by a small airport with daily flights to and from Kuala Lumpur and Singapore, and excellent sea connections, Tioman is a very popular resort for holidaymakers and divers, particularly over weekends. In the southern waters of the east coast lies the small island of Aur, which boasts good corals and some fine diving. Because of its proximity to Singapore, Aur also attracts plenty of weekend divers from the republic.
Nazri’s Beach on idyllic Tioman Island.
Although the formation of marine parks has helped limit the damage caused by illegal fishing, it can do nothing to prevent the run-off from the peninsula itself (deforestation has not been kind to the rivers and offshore waters), which has had disastrous effects on the mangrove swamps as well as inshore corals.
Hammerhead shark sightings are the number one attraction in Layan-Layang.
A green turtle hatchling reaches the surf, only to face many predators. The best place in Malaysia for sea turtle watchers is Sipadan Island.
The best areas for coral on the west side of Peninsular Malaysia are around the three islands that form the Pulau Payar Marine Park just south of Langkawi. Even though the visibility is not as good as that on the east coast of the peninsula, divers report that there is good coral and marine life.
In Borneo, the situation is far better. With the gazetting of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, the reefs around the five small islands off Kota Kinabalu’s shore have benefited enormously from the park’s protection over recent decades. Visibility is not always as clear as it might be, but the shallow reefs are a major attraction to holidaymakers in the area. Snorkeling and diving facilities are widely available to visitors.
But the best reefs lie, without a doubt, at Sipadan, a small mushroom-shaped island rising from the ocean floor situated some 25 km off the coast from Tawau. The reefs are in excellent condition, with a rating amongst the best in Asia, and when the waters are not filled with plankton the visibility can be good. Sharks are common as are large schools of fish. Dive permits (with limited availability) are required for diving around Sipadan and so booking in advance is essential.
The more remotely positioned Layang-Layang, some 240 km north of Kota Kinabalu, offers reefs that are in fine condition and provide divers with some fabulous encounters not only with reef life but with large pelagics.
MALAYSIAN LIVEABOARDS
For those who are not seeking a shore-based experience in Malaysia, divers have found that liveaboard dive boats offer an excellent alternative to land-based diving. Divers can also enjoy Sipadan and the Kunak group of islands north of Sipadan from the comfort of a liveaboard dive boat. Lastly, many dive trips to Malaysia, in particular those to the islands off the east coast, can also be organized from neighboring Singapore.
—Fiona Nichols/Sarah Ann Wormald
Sipadan
Memorable Diving from an Oceanic Isle East of Borneo
Access Boat times vary from Mabul, Kapalai and Semporna
Current Variable, 10–22 meters
Reef type Light, occasionally more
Highlights Generally good variety
Visibility Slopes and walls, cave
Coral Generally good numbers of big fish at best sites
Fish Hammerheads; Turtle Cave; turtles galore
The diving is always good at Sipadan and occasionally it can be superb. Good-sized pelagics and large schools of fish generally represent Sipadan’s main attraction to divers. While nothing is guaranteed, it’s not unusual for dives around Sipadan to be highlighted by one or more of the following: hammerhead and leopard shark sightings, barracudas in shoals of several hundred, a rumbling herd of many bumphead parrotfish, a manta or two, countless turtles and perhaps half a dozen white tip sharks.
Reef fish are present in fair numbers and variety, and perhaps most impressive are the quantities of medium-sized fish—between 25 and 40 cm—in relatively shallow waters. This is especially the case for groups of up to a dozen harlequin sweetlips, but also snappers, emperorfish, triggerfish, long fin batfish and a couple of species of unicornfish.
Macro lens wielders and those with acute powers of observation could spot an unusual crinoid, shrimp and tiny fish combination, all matching the host’s coloration, or a golden spotted shrimp on a very flattened carpet anemone. Some divers have found a patch of relatively tame spotted garden eels, elsewhere requiring the patience of Job to photograph outside of their burrow. Sharp eyes can also reveal a pink sailfin leaffish or a scorpionfish and nudibranchs.
It has
