Diving in Southeast Asia. David Espinosa

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      The Clark’s anemone is a host of clownfish, which are recognizable by their two white bands, finely outlined in iridescent blue.

      TENGGOL

      The island of Tenggol is situated further south from Redang and some 20 km offshore. It comprises one main island with a beautiful sandy beach of fine white sand and two small isles. On the western side of the island lies a sheltered bay.

      However, the big attraction at Tenggol is wall diving, for the island has steep rocky cliffs on its eastern South China Sea side, which drop dramatically to the seabed. In addition, there are some pristine coral formations and a number of submerged rocks with excellent coral growth on them. Diving at Tenggol goes down to 48 meters, to the seabed, and divers who are more interested in fish than in corals and tunicates will find bumphead parrotfish, lizardfish, large schools of jacks and even the possibility of some white tip sharks. Occasionally, a whale shark or manta ray has been known to pass through and ghost pipe-fish are among some of the smaller fish known to make their homes here.

      —Fiona Nichols/Sarah Ann Wormald

      Tioman and Aur

      A Playground for Divers and Holidaymakers

      Access By bumboat from Tioman or liveaboard boats from Mersing and Singapore Fair, average of 9 meters; Aur averages 12 meters

      Current Variable

      Reef type Fair in Tioman; good in Aur

      Highlights Coral gardens

      Visibility Schooling fish, corals

      Coral Good numbers, fair variety

      Fish Beautiful beaches; corals around Aur

      From the very first glimpse of its white sandy beaches, azure waters and often mist shrouded mountains, the island of Tioman exerts an almost mystical pull. Since the late 1950s, it has delighted film-goers, especially fans of South Pacific, and it continues to delight romantics today. Tioman has become renowned as a great place to holiday. Indeed, during the late April to September season, visitors arrive from Kuala Lumpur, Johor and Singapore, so it is essential to book in advance.

      Tioman is not a divers’ paradise, but rather a paradise in where divers can dabble in their favorite sport. The once pristine corals show evidence in places of previous illicit dynamite fishing. The general effects of being a popular resort are also visible. Rubbish can be an issue although projects are now underway to deal with this.

      In 1985, however, the waters around Pulau Tioman were designated part of a large marine park where sustainable fishing is permitted but dynamiting, cyanide poisoning and spear fishing are outlawed. Similarly, the islands off the coast of Johor—Rawa, Tinggi, Besar, Sibu and Aur—at the bottom of the peninsula were put under protection.

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      Tioman is known mainly for its white sand beaches although there are a number of good dive sites off shore within an hour’s ride by boat.

      Although the visibility is usually in the region of 8–9 meters, it can very occasionally reach 30 meters. On an average dive, you’ll meet schools of jacks, trevally, coral trout, pufferfish, a few stingrays and a number of moray eels. The crown-of-thorns starfish, which has caused much damage to the reef in the past, seems to be less prolific nowadays. We’ve heard stories about meeting a dozen hammerheads on one dive, but such sightings are unusual. There are sharks—black tip reef sharks usually—but nurse sharks are also not uncommon.

      There are numerous dive spots around Tioman, most accessed in less than an hour via converted fishing boats.

      Magician Rock is the place for schooling fish to hang out but currents here can be strong so it is best suited to experienced divers. There are also plenty of large fans for the photographers. Off the east coast, Juara is a good spot to see barracudas, snappers and stingrays, and to enjoy the hard corals. There is a submerged pinnacle here that attracts plenty of fish. Off the northeast, Sri Buat is renowned for its beautiful hard corals and some exceptionally tall soft corals.

      Adjacent islands with good coral include Labas and Tulai. Check out the Napoleon wrasses at Tulai Island (it has a beautiful beach, too), and look out for the schools of trevally and barracuda. There are angelfish and coral trouts for the keen eyed. Labas is also a favorite due to its rock formations, swim-throughs and passing barracudas, stingrays and reef sharks.

      Tiger Reef has two huge pinnacles where there are schools of yellowtails, angelfish and snappers. Nurse sharks are often sighted here. There are also some impressive sea fans and lovely soft corals. Diving is also good on the Jubilee Shoals, but as they are further away many operators do not journey out this far or will only do so with a minimum number of divers.

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      Tioman offers interesting rocks and swim-throughs such as this one.

      AUR

      This small island, located 65 km from the Malaysian coast, was traditionally home to a small fishing community. Together with the neighboring islands of Dayang and Lang, Pulau Aur is a great favorite with divers as the distance from the mainland has ensured its corals remain in good condition while its relative remoteness contributes to a better-than-average visibility for this part of the coast. Accommodation is available on both Pulau Dayang and Aur and access is usually via the town of Mersing.

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      This nudibranch (Nembrotha kubaryana) is one of many colorful species found in this area.

      Expect to find trevallies, sweetlips, coral trout, wrasses, plenty of parrotfish, anemones and a wide variety of nudibranchs. Night diving in the main bay is also fun. Further from the shelter of the island, currents can be strong, especially on the surface, but as a compensation there are more big fish and the possibility of larger schools.

      —Fiona Nichols/Sarah Ann Wormald

      Langkawi

      The Marine Reserve at Pulau Payar

      Access 5 minutes to upwards of 1 hour to more distant sites

      Current Fair, 2–10 meters

      Reef type Negligible

      Highlights Best variety in Malaysia

      Visibility Coral gardens, artificial reef

      Coral Fair variety

      Fish Ease of access; great for snorkelers

      This marine park encompasses four islands, Pulau Payar, Pulau Kaca, Pulau Lembu and Pulau Segantang, and is located 30 km south of the island of Langkawi and 65 km north of Penang. The park’s pride lies in its wide variety of habitats and the largest number of coral species in the country, including the most colorful soft corals.

      The Marine Park was conceived to protect the natural marine wealth, while specific zones have been marked for research and educational activities as well

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