Best of Bordeaux. Rolf Bichsel

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Best of Bordeaux - Rolf Bichsel

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75cl

       39.50

       (10 cl = 5.27)

       Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

       Château La Tour Figeac

       2012, 75 cl

       38.95

       (10 cl = 5.19)

       7

       Foreword

       I ran aground in Bordeaux in 1986 as a pia-

      nist in a jazz club, and stayed on. I wanted

       to keep tinkling the ivories and ended up do-

      ing so, just di

       ff

       erently to how I imagined. Be-

      cause life sometimes takes us in unexpected

       directions, I became a wine writer and my

       new home became my subject matter. Ever

       since, I have tasted hundreds of great Bor-

      deaux wines every year, with a degree of

       shame as wine is not designed to be spat

       out. Bordeaux has changed radically over these past 30 years. There is no other

       region producing such quantities of such stylish wines. Bordeaux has an unfor-

      tunate reputation for producing rare luxury products, but in reality the peak has

       become much broader, and even so-called lesser vintages offer wines which are

       outstanding in terms of both price and style. There are hundreds of good Bor-

      deaux wines, only a few of which are expensive objects of speculation. On my

       first en primeur tour, there were barely a dozen tasters trying 120 wines. Today,

       several thousand Bordeaux palates (or aspiring palates) taste up to a thousand

       wine samples over the course of a week without any guilty conscience what-

      soever. There is also a downside to the sheer quantity of interesting Bordeaux.

       Whilst people who knew a couple of dozen labels and three top vintages could

       once call themselves connoisseurs, now it takes a university degree. This book is

       an (insu

       ffi

       cient) attempt to turn the tide. I have tried – with all the compromises

       and inconsistencies such an undertaking entails – to reduce the top Bordeaux

       wines everyone should know to 200 brands. This is the best overview I can of-

      fer of my world of fine Bordeaux, whilst also including a few other lesser-known

       estates as representatives of the many others. All of this is based on my own

       experience: I make no claim to objectivity when it comes to wine.

       I originally wanted to reduce the historical notes about the estates to a couple

       of lines which could be read anywhere. When compiling the first portraits, I was

       tearing my hair out wondering whether I was repeating the error of cheerfully

       repeating all of the commonly held misconceptions ever published, but my

       Bernese stubbornness required a di

       ff

       erent approach. Checking sources and his-

      torical data, studying marriage certificates and trawling through online archives

       cost me an extra year of work. However, the subject matter was worth the effort:

       true Bordeaux history contains ten times more adventure than what is usually

       peddled.

       Rolf Bichsel

       Bordeaux lives

      

       8

       Contents

       200 years of wine adventure

       The Bordeaux story 10

       Fact and fiction 12

       Ausonius and the Romans 14

       Bordeaux melting pot 18

       The New French Claret 20

       New luxury 24

       Early years 26

       Trade triangle 29

      

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