Hard down! Hard down!. Captain Jack Isbester

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       4 GOING FOREIGN

      In Liverpool he joined the ship Sealkote, 1,241 tons gross, as ordinary seaman in April 1871 shortly before she sailed for

      The agreement also provided that:

      The crew shall consist of Mate, Carpr, Bsn, Sails, Std, Cook, 8 Seamen, 1 Ordy and 1 Boy [i.e. mate, carpenter, bosun, sailmaker, steward, cook, 8 seamen, 1 ordinary seaman and 1 boy]. No grog allowed.

      Calcutta was reached in mid-September, after about five months at sea. During the passage while Sealkote was in the Atlantic, John Isbester would have experienced Westerlies followed by the steady north east trade winds, then the doldrums and the south east trades, mostly pleasant sailing in latitudes far more benign than was offered by the waters around Shetland. Rounding the Cape of Good Hope, probably at a good distance from the land, the westerly winds of the Roaring Forties might have accelerated their passage before they turned northwards into the Indian Ocean and the Bay of Bengal. The final weeks of the voyage would have occurred during the south west monsoon season, providing a fair wind but unpleasant rainy, sweaty conditions when tempers are likely to have been short. Arriving at Sandheads at the mouth of the Hoogly, Sealkote would have acquired a pilot and a tug and been towed up the fast-flowing river to Budge Budge or Calcutta. The dense mangrove swamps, the innumerable small boats transporting passengers or stacked high with sacks or bales of farm produce, the fishermen with their nets and the brown-skinned people in lungis and saris would provide fascinating sights for a young man who until that time had seen only the Faeroes, Scotland and northern England.

      When berthed at No.5 Hastings Moorings, Calcutta, at 0715 hrs on Monday 17 September, shortly after Sealkote’s arrival in the port, Lewis Joseph, ordinary seaman, loosing sails, fell from the mizzen topsail yard onto the poop deck. He was immediately seen by a doctor who happened to be on board at the time and sent to Calcutta hospital where he died at 1015 hrs the same morning of a ruptured spleen. A fall in these circumstances would be unusual – the ship would be steady and the temperature not extreme – but the records show that Joseph had taken a cash advance of 5 shillings on the ship’s arrival in port the previous afternoon, in addition to incurring debts of £1 5s with a bumboat man for unspecified goods or services. In Calcutta in 1871, 5 shillings – half a week’s wages for an ordinary seaman – would have been a very much more substantial figure than it seems today. Whatever the reason, it is likely that his fall was caused by feeling unwell. When Joseph’s effects were sold, John Isbester paid 3 shillings for a pair of boots which Joseph had earlier in the voyage bought for 16 shillings from the captain’s slopchest.

      Most of the crew deserted soon after the ship arrived in Calcutta, which probably suited both crew and owners well. The latter could use cheap local labour when needed for the two months during which Sealkote was in the port, and the former could have a few days ashore enjoying themselves after their five months at sea and then, when their money ran out, ship out to some new destination.

      Sealkote remained in Calcutta until mid-November and I like to think that my grandfather wandered around the suburban Kidderpore covered market as I did 90 years later, enjoying the immaculate stalls selling beans and pulses in sacks carefully opened to display their attractive contents, bars of coarse local soap, brilliantly coloured saris and enticing, juicy mangoes, sweet and tasty bananas and delicious

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