they trap water and debris and are no longer suggested. If you want to lift your pot off of a deck or patio, use pot feet or a pot trivet. I also use small, flat rocks to level my containers and improve drainage.
What size container?
Container size is important, too. It must be large enough to accommodate the plant’s roots. Tomatoes and peppers especially need large containers. Although they aren’t fancy, five-gallon buckets are excellent choices for large plants. Be sure to drill those drainage holes first, though.
TIP: Most plants also need good air circulation, so try not to overcrowd them. Keep in mind how large they will eventually grow, and leave a little space around the containers themselves, too. Gentle breezes keep foliage dry and disease free. However, try to keep containers out of strong winds that dry out soil and shred leaves.
Potting soil (it’s not dirt)
Who says you need dirt to garden? Good quality potting mixes can be found at your local nursery. Don’t be surprised to see the words “soilless mix” on a package. Most potting soils are mixtures of several ingredients. Many start with peat moss, which can be controversial due to the environmental damage of peat bogs. For more regarding peat bogs and their environmental impact on wetlands, see Resources. Don’t be afraid to ask your local nursery what goes into their soil mix. It should be organic. You’re growing these vegetables partly because you don’t completely trust commercial farming, right? Don’t grow with chemical fertilizers or pesticides either, and the ecosystem will thank you.
Garden soil. This is a no-go for pots because it is too heavy, slow draining and has weed seeds and bacteria. Container mixes are formulated to be light in texture, free of disease and weed seeds, and to provide good drainage.
Water: the stuff of life
So, you’ve picked your pots, plants and soil, and you’re ready to go. However, without water, your garden will quickly become a barren wasteland. All life needs water to survive. Plants should be placed where they are easy for you to water. Many apartments don’t have an outside water spigot on the balcony. If that’s the case, either hook up a hose to your kitchen faucet – with a faucet adapter – or carry water to your plants. Your choice comes down to convenience. If you plan to tote water to your plants, buy a good quality watering can. Plastic watering cans are lightweight and easy to carry, even when full of water. I particularly love Haws watering cans – a good Christmas present – because they are perfectly balanced, with a great watering rose (sprinkler).
Containers should be checked for moisture at least once a day when summer heats up. Even when it rains, containers beneath an overhang won’t get water. To test whether a container needs water, insert your index finger down into the soil. Potting soil should feel damp, not sopping wet or dry. Because containers are watered everyday, they will also need consistent nutrients. Buy a slow release or watersoluble organic fertilizer for monthly feeding. Group containers together for easier watering on hot summer days. You will probably water your plants before you head off to work, and no one wants to haul a hose around the deck while wearing office attire.
Drip watering. For even sweeter relief, install a drip watering system with a timer. This is perfect for when you leave town because containers can become diseased or die if they go more than a day or two without water. You can buy kits and additional drip emitters at varying water rates, all very easy to install. I placed a simple timer on mine to make sure the pots got watered to my specifications while I was gone. (See the next chapter for how to install a drip system for your pots.) If possible, group your containers together in the shade to reduce water loss. Have a veggie-loving friend come over to pick vegetables and check on things while you’re away. Some vegetables will quit producing if you leave them alone for too long.
Good to know: Crops like lettuce and other leafy vegetables require more water than bulbs like onions and garlic.
Project Salad Bowl
What you’ll need:
When I saw this terra-cotta-colored, plastic planter at my local home improvement center, I just knew I had to make a salad bowl.
If your container doesn’t have holes, take a hammer and screwdriver, or an electric drill, and make five or six holes spaced throughout the bottom of the container. This is to help it drain properly. If the container is pottery, you’ll need a masonry drill bit.
Place soil in the container until it’s about ½ inch from the top.
From this point, you can do it one of two ways:
I decided to plant mine in a swirl pattern so I dragged a bamboo spatula through the soil. You could also use play sand to mark your design. I then sowed seeds along the swirl pattern.
If you don’t want to go to this much trouble, scatter the mixed seeds of a mesclun mix over the top of the soil. Lightly cover them with soil. Seeds will usually sprout in 7 to 10 days, but check your seed package for germination dates.
Water soil and keep it evenly moist, but don’t drown seeds with too much water either. Place the bowl outside, but keep it elevated to prevent rot on your deck and bunnies eating all of your salad.
When plants get to the desired size, you can either cut them like mesclun, or let them grow to maturity. I know it’s hard to wait!
TIP: If you have large enough containers, you can interplant shorter or trailing plants with taller ones like tomatoes, for extra visual appeal. Even add some flowers. (This squash plant looks lonely!)
Seeds or plants? Which are better?
It all depends upon the plant and your point of view. There are some people who think seeds are the only way to garden, but some plants, like tomatoes and peppers, take a while to grow before they begin producing fruit. While I do start heirloom tomato seeds indoors, I also buy some hybrid plants from my local nursery. You’re a gardener the moment
