21/323-50-65. Museum 2.50€; free for over 65s, under 14s, students, and all on Sun before 2pm. Oct–Mar: Mon 2–5:30pm, Tues–Sun 10am–5:30pm; Apr–Sept: Mon 2–6:30pm, Tues–Wed and Fri–Sun 10am–6:30pm, Thurs 10am–7:30pm. Tram: 24. Bus: 758.
Trams, elevators & funiculars
Lisbon provides some vintage transport solutions to help footsore travelers (and locals) overcome its hilly terrain. Its trams, elevators, and funiculars date back to the turn of the 20th century. They’re run by the Carris public transport company and can be accessed with the Viva transport card (p. 73).
Elevador de Santa Justa Inaugurated in 1902, this imposing iron structure towers over the Baixa and continues to haul pedestrians up the Largo do Carmo in the Chiado. Contrary to local lore, Gustave Eiffel had no role in its construction, although the ornate 45m (148-ft.) structure definitely shares style-points with his Parisian tower. Be prepared to queue, but there are great views from the top. Runs daily 7am to 9pm in winter and until 11pm summertime.
Tram 28 The little yellow street cars that rattle around the city are one of Lisbon’s most recognizable symbols. Many of the trams (eléctricos) date back to 1901 when the network was first installed. Running through Alfama, Baixa, Chiado, and other historic districts, line 28 is a travelers’ must-do. It’s always crowded, and you should watch out for pickpockets on board. Runs weekdays from around 6:30am to 11pm, starting a bit later on Saturdays and staying in the shed on Sunday. Other trolley lines include No. 15 along the river to Belém and No. 24 heading from Chiado through Príncipe Real and Amoreiras.
Ascensor da Bica The most photogenic of three 19th-century funicular rail cars running up Lisbon’s hills, this one was installed in 1892 and takes about 5 minutes to lug passengers from Rua de São Paulo, just behind Ribeira market, through the picturesque Bica neighborhood to Bairro Alto (Mon–Sat 7am–9pm; Sun 9am–9pm). The other yellow-painted ascensors are Glória running from the start of Avenida da Liberdade to Bairro Alto; and Lavra from just off Avenida da Liberdade (next to the excellent Solar dos Presuntos restaurant) to the charming, but little-visited Santana district.
Mercado da Ribeira/Time Out Market MARKET Lisbon’s main food market was built in the 1880s and topped with a distinctive white onion-dome. The traditional side has morning displays of flowers and rows of stalls loaded with seasonal produce (strawberries in April, peaches in July, etc.). Side aisles have butchers’ counters gleaming with steaks and offal and fishmongers offering everything from baby squid to swordfish the size of small submarines. Supermarkets and gentrification have robbed the market of some of its bygone bustle, but it remains a window into the soul of the city. Avoid Mondays, when there is no fish catch and many stalls are closed. On the western side of the market hall, a gourmet food court launched by Time Out magazine has become one of Lisbon’s most-visited attractions. Diners can choose from around 40 restaurants, bars, and stores. Their offerings range from intricate dishes fashioned by Michelin-starred chefs, to sushi, pizza, and Portuguese nibbles like deep-fried cod cakes. There are stores to buy wine, cheese, or chocolate, plus cooking workshops and music into the small hours.
Avenida 24 de Julho. www.timeoutmarket.com. 21/395-1274. Traditional market: Mon–Sat 6am–2pm. Time Out Market: Sun–Wed 10am–midnight; Thurs–Sat 10am–2am. Metro: Cais do Sodré. Tram: 15, 25. Bus: 706, 720, 728, 732, 738, 760.
Five historic Cafes
Cafes are an essential part of Lisbon life. Traditionally they are also pastelarias (pastry shops) meaning you can always get freshly baked cakes to go with your bica (espresso). Unfortunately, many neighborhood cafes are closing, often to be replaced by bland imitations of international hipster joints. Thankfully this historic quintet is looking good for a few more years:
A Brasileira Lisbon’s most-famous cafe opened in 1905 and got its name from the coffee shipped from Brazil. It’s said the bica was invented here. A longtime favorite with writers and artists—including poet Fernando Pessoa, whose statue sits on the pavement terrace—paintings from 1960s habitués decorate the mirrored interior. Make like a local and knock back your (0.70€) shot of coffee standing at the bar, rather than join the tourists paying much more outside.
Rua Garrett, 120. www.abrasileira.pt. 21/346-95-41. Daily 8am–2am. Metro Baixa-Chiado.
Confeitaria Nacional One of Europe’s oldest pastry shops, this place is little changed since it opened in 1829. Its display of homemade pastries will tempt the most calorie-conscious. Locals stand in line at Christmas time for its bolo rei (king of cakes) heavy with crystalized fruit. There are eggy sponge cakes called austríacos in memory of WWII refugees from Austria who left the recipe. Among the creamy and chocolatey delights, our favorites are unassuming aniseed-flavored crescents called meia-luas.
Praça da Figueira, 18. www.confeitarianacional.com. 21/342-44-70. Mon–Thurs 8am–8pm; Fri–Sat 8am–9pm; Sun 9am–9pm. Metro: Rossio.
Martinho da Arcada In the middle of the action, surrounded by government ministries on riverfront Terreiro do Paço, this joint has been serving thirsty Lisboetas since 1782. There’s a bar with a couple of tables for snacks, beer, or coffee, an elegant dining room out back, and an esplanade under the arcades. City workers pop in through the day to refuel, and it’s always been a literary hangout, favored by poet Fernando Pessoa.
Praça do Comercio, 3. www.martinhodaarcada.pt. 21/887-92-59. Daily 7:15am–11pm. Metro: Terreiro do Paço.
Pastéis de Belém This tile-covered cafe/bakery founded in 1837 is famed for the little custard tarts (known as pastéis de nata) that have become one of Portugal’s best-known culinary exports. This is where they were invented to bring in income for cash-strapped monks. Skip the (always long) lines for takeaway by grabbing a table in the waiter-service back room where the tarts come warm from the oven and ready for you to sprinkle them with cinnamon. You can always ask them to add a to-go box to your bill.
