Palácio de Seteais (Sintra): The Dutch ambassador owned one of the most romantic palaces in Portugal, built in the 1780s on a forested hillside in Sintra. They say the name came later: “Sete ais” translates as “seven sighs,” apparently uttered by Portuguese nobles forced to sign a humiliating treaty here after an 1807 defeat by Napoleon’s invading armies. Any sighing you’re likely to do today will be from pleasure—at the views, the lavish gardens, the gloriously restored neoclassical building, and the chance to plunge into the lifestyle of the old-world aristocracy. See p. 166.
Pousada Palacio de Estoi (Faro): Our pick from the Pousada chain of historic inns was built in the 1780s as a pleasure place for a viscount’s palace. Its rococo domes and towers are painted in raspberry and lemon shades overlooking gardens filled with palms, fountains, and rows of statues. The central salon is a downsized version of the Versailles’ Hall of Mirrors. In contrast, guestrooms are in the new wing built along minimalist-but-comfy lines by an award-winning architect. See p. 224.
Rio do Prado (Óbidos): On the road from the white town of Óbidos to pristine west-coast beaches is this friendly eco-chic resort formed by concrete cubicles that blend into the grass. It might not sound tempting, but the bungalows are intriguingly crafted to allow in sunlight and decorated with sustainable good taste, with private patios, fireplaces inside and out, and theatrical stand-alone tubs. The garden is a delight, and the property’s organic herb and vegetable plot supplies the restaurant. See p. 198.
Six Senses Douro Valley (Lamego): Probably the most pampering you can get at any one place, this was the first European resort with the sensory overload approach of Asian luxury specialist Six Senses. It has acres of land among the Douro’s riverside vineyards, a match of award-winning contemporary design with the charm of the original 19th-century mansion, great restaurants, and a superlative spa. See p. 375.
The Independente (Lisbon): Lisbon has a reputation for some of the world’s hippest hostels, and this is one of the best: at the heart of the action in the Bairro Alto nightlife zone and with great views over the city. It has basic dorm bunks for as little as 10€ including breakfast—and this in a palatial, early-20th-century residence originally built for the Swiss ambassador! A couple of cool restaurants are in the building along with a rooftop bar. There are also some charming private suites, for those who can afford to pay for privacy. See p. 79.
Verride Palácio Santa Catarina (Lisbon): An 18th-century palace restored and renovated as one of the capital’s most luxurious. You’ll gape at marble arches, panels of antique tiles, and the monumental staircase. On the roof, the pool and bar/restaurant gift guests with 360-degree views over the rooftops and River Tagus. The king-size royal suites are draped in lemon-yellow silk and stucco work like piped cream. It’s regal but has a laidback and unstuffy feel. See p. 76.
Vidago Palace (Chaves): Of all Portugal’s grand old spa hotels, this is the grandest. Built in 1910 on the orders of King Carlos I, who wanted a resort to rival the best of Europe, it oozes Belle Epoque glamour. Built over natural spring waters reputed for their curative properties since Roman times, it is surrounded by 100 hectares (250 acres) of forested parkland. Inside, expect expanses of marble, silk wall hangings, and monumental staircases, all tastefully restored when the hotel reopened in 2010. The gourmet restaurant and 18-hole golf course are bonuses. It’s an hour’s drive from Porto in the heart of Trás-os-Montes. See p. 406.
Portugal’s best Restaurants
Belcanto (Lisbon): Lisbon’s finest fine dining, the flagship of star chef José Avillez with two Michelin stars. Avillez brings a refined but irreverent approach to his cooking, which is revolutionary but firmly rooted in Portuguese traditions. His exquisite tasting menus can feature radical reworkings of classics like roast suckling pig or the country’s Sunday lunch favorite—cozido (a one-pot of boiled meats and vegetables). Recently expanded into bigger premises next door, it still keeps the elegant and intimate feel, on a plaza facing the opera house. See p. 87.
Casa de Chá da Boa Nova (Porto): First the location: surging out of rocks lapped by the Atlantic surf. Then the building: Built as a teahouse in the 1960s, this low-rise concrete-glass-and-wood construction is an early masterwork by architectural genius Álvaro Siza Vieira. Then the food, produced by starred chef Rui Paula, whose ocean menu features scallop with black radish and red mullet with cashew and cassava. See p. 355.
Casa dos Passarinhos (Lisbon): No visit to Portugal is complete without eating in a tasca. These are simple taverns, serving up hearty portions of traditional food to hungry workers. This is one of the best: just two simple dining rooms, which fill up quick. Garlicky bread mush with shrimp, deep-fried cuttlefish, and griddled steaks are among the specialties. See p. 95.
A Casa Guedes (Porto): Sandwiches are big in Porto, and it’s hard to beat the roast pork lathered with marinade and cooking juices and slapped into fist-size rolls in this retro hole-in-the-wall. If you really want to push the boat out, grab one with an added portion of creamy queijo da serra sheep’s cheese. Wash down with cold vinho verde or a black beer. See p. 358.
Chico Elias (Tomar): Chef Maria do Céu is in her eighties but still works the ovens to produce the slow-roasted dishes that make this rustic eatery, beside the UNESCO-listed Knights Templar stronghold, a temple of traditional food. You should call at least 24 hours in advance to order her best dishes like rabbit cooked in pumpkin or baked codfish with acorn-sweetened pork. Celebrity photos on the walls bear witness to the timeless appeal. See p. 268.
Fialho (Évora): The cooking of the Alentejo region is considered by many Portuguese to be the country’s best. It’s based on acorn-reared pork, free-range lamb, game in season, the finest olive oils, and organically grown produce. For more than 70 years, this family-run restaurant has been an ambassador for the region’s authentic cruise. The roast lamb is sublime, the rice with wild pigeon delectable, the sliced black pork heavenly. A national treasure (p. 278).
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