Fig 1
3 Place the square ruler on the fabric with the diagonal marking running from top right to bottom left. Move it across the fabric until the straightened end of the fabric and the bottom edge of the fabric strip are lying underneath the chosen measurement (e.g., 8in /20.3cm) on the square ruler (Fig 2). Left-handers should position the ruler with the diagonal marking running from top left to bottom right on the trimmed end of the fabric before moving it over the fabric to the correct marking. The fabric you see trapped under the square ruler is the square that you want.
Fig 2
4 Cut along the right side of the ruler to make the square. Remove it from the board before repositioning the ruler on the fabric and cutting the next square.
TIP
If the squares you are cutting are not in a whole inch measurement e.g. 61⁄2in × 61⁄2in (16.5cm × 16.5cm), look closely at your square ruler. Many of them have an extra 1⁄2in (1.3cm) added on two sides (Fig 3). To make the 1⁄2in (1.3cm) markings as easy to see and use as the whole inch markings, just turn the ruler round through 180°. The extra 1⁄2in (1.3cm) strip will be along the top and down the right side. Left-handers should turn the square ruler until the diagonal marking runs from bottom right to top left with the extra strip along the top and down the left side. Move the ruler over the fabric until the trimmed end of the fabric and its bottom edge line up with the chosen measurement (e.g., 61⁄2in/16.5cm) marked on the square ruler (Fig 4). Cut along the right side of the ruler to make the square.
Fig 3
Fig 4
TIP
Many rotary cutters have retractable devices to make them extra safe, but I prefer the older models that have a guard which pushes on and off manually. Get into the habit of always pushing the guard up to protect the blade as you finish cutting every time and never ever lay the cutter down without the guard in position.
Cutting Just One Square
1 Place a corner of the fabric on the cutting mat and position the square ruler on it so that about 1⁄4in (6mm) of fabric extends beyond it on two sides (Fig 5). Match the grain or weave of the fabric with the top and side of the square ruler.
Fig 5
2 Trim these two edges by cutting along each length with a rotary cutter (Fig 6). Left-handers should work from the left side of the fabric.
Fig 6
3 Turn the fabric through 180°, so that the two cut edges are at the bottom left corner. To cut an 8in (20.3cm) square, place the square ruler on the fabric with the diagonal marking running from top right to bottom left. Move it across the fabric until the two trimmed fabric edges are lying underneath the 8in (20.3cm) lines on the square ruler (Fig 7). Left-handers should position the ruler with the diagonal marking running from top left to bottom right on the trimmed corner of fabric before moving it over the fabric to the correct marking. The fabric you see trapped under the square ruler is the square that you want.
Fig 7
4 Cut along the remaining two sides of fabric to complete the 8in (20.3cm) square.
TIP
If a 1⁄2in (1.3cm) measurement such as 61⁄2in (16.5cm) is needed and your square ruler has the extra 1⁄2in (1.3cm) feature, first trim two sides as before. Then turn the ruler round so that the diagonal line is running from bottom left to top right with the extra 1⁄2in (1.3cm) strip along the top and down the right side (Fig 8). Left-handers should turn the ruler until the diagonal marking runs from bottom right to top left with the extra strip along the top and down the left side. Move the ruler over the fabric until the two trimmed edges of fabric line up with the 61⁄2in (16.5cm) markings on the square ruler. Cut along the remaining two sides of fabric to complete the square.
Fig 8
TIP
If you run over a pin with your rotary cutter, the blade will be damaged and will never cut completely cleanly again, and rotary cutter blades can be expensive. So before laying the fabric in place on the cutting board, sweep your hand over the surface of the board to move aside any rogue pins that may be lying in wait there. If you use a smaller size rotary cutter, which will easily cut two or three layers at a time, the replacement blades are half the price of the larger version!
Making Templates
For the overlying square windows I use rotary cutting equipment to cut as many as I need speedily and efficiently. If I want to cut a specific section of fabric such as a flower or star, I make a template for the window shape from template plastic so that I can place it exactly in position on the design and draw round it. I still use a rotary cutter and ruler rather than scissors to cut the window out, but you use any method that suits you. Oddly shaped windows that occur in some of the complex designs must be made as templates and drawn around individually in the usual way.
When making a template from those printed in this book, trace the desired shape on to good quality tracing paper, including the arrow that shows the direction of the grain or weave of the fabric. Cut out the traced shape roughly, keeping about 1⁄4in (6mm) outside the drawn outline. Stick this on to card and then cut out the exact outline through both tracing paper and card. Try to cut just inside the drawn lines as this keeps the measurements accurate as you draw round the template on the fabric. Alternatively, make the templates from clear template plastic.
TIP
Try using freezer paper as an alternative to tracing paper (available from most quilt shops). Trace the shape on to the non-shiny side of the freezer paper. Cut the shape out roughly as described above. Place the cut shape shiny-side down on a piece of card and iron it with a medium-hot iron. The freezer paper will bond on to the card and you can then cut out the template in the usual way.
Using the Sewing Machine
When I first explored Cathedral Window I treated it as a hand technique from start to finish. I used to construct
