I have switched to the envelope method and to stitching by machine, although all the stitching may be done by hand if preferred. I like the machine for this part of the job because it is more secure and speeds up the tedious preliminary processes, giving me more time for the delicious hand-work with the windows.
I have always joined the folded squares together by oversewing or whip stitching the folded edges by hand, much like English patchwork over papers. This is a process that I really enjoy, finding the gentle oversewing very restful and therapeutic. I am very aware, however, that such activities are not everyone’s pleasure. I realized that if I wanted Cathedral Window to have as wide an appeal as possible, I needed to find alternative ways of doing the preliminary stages more quickly by machine – that way both the hand workers and the machinists can explore the technique in the medium that they most enjoy. Although I believe that the final stage of stitching the rolled edge over the added window fabric is essentially a hand process, I know that clever machinists will enjoy themselves perfecting it by machine. Well, they would do, wouldn’t they? Meanwhile what I have done is take the stitching together of the folded background squares or rectangles and offer a machined method as an alternative to oversewing by hand (see Joining Square Blocks by Machine, page 20). For the machining, a basic straight stitch with an accurate 1⁄4in (6mm) seam allowance is all that is required, so even an ancient hand machine would do. Use a new 80/11 size needle for medium-weight cotton fabrics or a 70/9 for lightweight fabric.
Classic Cathedral Window
Mastering the basic technique of making a classic Cathedral Window folded square is the basis of all the other Cathedral Window variations described in this section. It is not difficult at all – you just need each part of the process set down clearly and explained step by step. So the section that follows is the key to the treasure that is Cathedral Window.
Classic Cathedral Window
Classic Cathedral Window is a wonderful technique that uses folded squares joined together to make a background on to which smaller pieces of fabric are stitched to create a second design layer of squares on point. Coupled with striking fabrics, the effect can be stunning, as seen by the Bright Batiks wall hanging opposite. This basic principle can be developed in many exciting ways, allowing you to create some gorgeous effects, as you will see throughout this book.
Before embarking on a larger project it is a good idea to make one Cathedral Window unit to get your hands and head round the technique and the following section describes this process in detail. This finished block can be developed into a simple pincushion project – see page 24.
If you are happy to join the folded squares in the traditional way by hand, oversewing or whip-stitching the blocks together, follow the instructions given here. If you would like to try the totally machined technique, follow steps 1–7 overleaf and then turn to the unit Joining Square Blocks by Machine on page 20 and follow that instead.
‘When making your first Cathedral Window block, start with a simple pincushion, which if not perfect technically, can be swiftly passed on to a less judgemental non-quilter friend.’
Marbled and batik fabrics in beautiful colours were used to create this striking wall hanging, Bright Batiks, which showcases the Cathedral Window technique perfectly in the central area. It also features two variations – Secret Garden and a final border of Twisted Windows. See the instructions on page 53 and also the picture on page 54.
Making a Cathedral Window Unit
1 To make a single Cathedral Window unit as in Fig 1, cut from the chosen background fabric two squares each measuring 8in × 8in (20.3cm × 20.3cm). This size is a good one to learn with and perfect for a pincushion. It was also used by Janet Covell for her wall hanging on page 32.
Fig 1
2 Fold each cut square in half with right sides facing. Pin and stitch an exact 1⁄4in (6mm) seam at either end (Fig 2). I use the machine to do this and stitch both squares at once, stringing them through the machine in a chain, one after the other. Leave about 11⁄2in (3.8cm) of thread between each stitched square. Cut the linking threads after stitching to separate the folded squares (see Tip below).
Fig 2
3 Trim the two folded corners diagonally to within 1⁄8in (3mm) of the stitching to reduce the bulk of the fabric (Fig 3). Finger-press the two stitched seams open.
Fig 3
TIP
Leave about 3⁄4 in (1.9cm) of machine threads hanging at the folded end of each seam. Use the threads to help pull the corner out as you finger-press the seam open.
Cutting the Squares
Each folded square of background fabric starts out as a larger cut square. There is an easy way to calculate this: choose the finished size of the folded square, e.g., 3in × 3in (7.6cm × 7.6cm). Double this measurement and then add 1⁄2in (1.3cm) for the seam allowances – this will be the size of the cut square of fabric needed at the start. For example, a 3in x 3in (7.6cm × 7.6cm) folded square will need 3in + 3in + 1⁄2in (7.6cm + 7.6cm + 1.3cm) = a 61⁄2in (16.5cm) cut square of fabric.
I use this size for most of my projects, especially for those mixing squares and rectangles as the calculations are simpler. Alternatively I like to use a larger square (cut 8in × 8in / 20.3cm × 20.3cm) which is a nonsense mathematically as it finishes up as a 33⁄4in × 33⁄4in (9.5cm × 9.5cm) folded square, but is visually very satisfying and a comfortable size to work with. Refer to the table below for other cutting and finishing sizes.
| Cut size of fabric square | Finished size of block |
|---|---|
| 41⁄2in × 41⁄2in | 2in × 2in |
| (11.4cm × 11.4cm) | (5.1cm × 5.1cm) |
| 61⁄2in × 61⁄2in | 3in × 3in |
| (16.5cm × 16.5cm) | (7.6cm × 7.6cm) |
|
81⁄2in × 81⁄2in
|
