Your Wildlife Garden. Jackie Bennett

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Your Wildlife Garden - Jackie  Bennett

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flowers White flushed with pink, throughout winter height 3m (10ft) spread 2.75m (9ft) planting Plant from mid-autumn to early spring, adding some garden compost or well-rotted manure to the planting hole site Full sun or light shade soil Moist, fertile care No regular pruning needed, but if the shrub becomes overgrown, thin out in mid-spring propagation From cuttings in late summer to early autumn wildlife value Flowering shrubs are few and far between this month and the blooms of Viburnum bodnantense have a particularly good perfume to attract insects

       WINTER ACONITE

      WINTER ACONITE

      (Eranthis hyemalis)

      Originally an introduction from Europe and Asia, this member of the buttercup family is naturalised in many parts of Britain and widely grown in gardens. The dazzling yellow flowers appear before or at the same time as snowdrops.

type Tuber
flowers Bright yellow, mid-winter to early spring
height 10cm (4in)
planting Plant tubers in late summer, 3–5cm (1–2in) deep and 8cm (3in) apart in groups of six or more
site Sun whilst flowering, partial shade for the rest of the year. Under deciduous trees or between shrubs
soil Moist, humus-rich, leaf mould
care No special care
propagation Plants will naturally set seed and spread. Alternatively, lift and divide tubers immediately after flowering
wildlife value Provides early pollen for waking insects. The winter aconite relies on flies and bees for pollination

       THE BAT’S YEARLY CYCLE

      WHY ENCOURAGE BATS?

      Many species of bats are becoming rare and in some cases nearing extinction because of disturbance and loss of natural roost sites. In cities and intensively farmed areas, their food supply of insects is also becoming depleted. A healthy garden with a wide range of insects will provide a rich night-time hunting ground. By eating a large proportion of pests like midges, the bats will help to maintain the garden’s natural balance.

      By understanding bats’ natural cycle we can choose the best ways to encourage them to use our gardens and houses. Bats traditionally roost in hollow trees or in caves, but have increasingly become adapted to buildings. For winter hibernation they will seek out a well-insulated spot with a constant temperature, such as a cave or cellar, but it is quite difficult to provide these conditions artificially. During the rest of the year, bats are less particular and will use a number of different sites. In spring they will seek out a safe place to give birth and rear their young. In summer they may choose a cooler spot to roost and in autumn a slightly warmer one. If your garden has any old trees they may well be inhabited by bats. If not, it is even more important to put up bat boxes.

      SITING THE BOX

      Position bat boxes at 3–5m (10–15ft) above ground (or higher), on a tree, post or on the house wall. Make sure the bats have a clear fight path by removing overhanging branches or other obstructions. If possible site three boxes facing south, south-west and south-east. This will enable bats to select the most suitable roost for the time of year.

      CONSTRUCTING A SIMPLE BOX

      A bat box works on the same principle as a bird box except that instead of a hole at the front for access, there is a small gap underneath which needs to be wide enough for the bats to enter, but small enough to keep out predators such as cats.

      Use a rough sawn plank of untreated softwood, approximately 2.5cm (1in) thick and at least 20cm (8in) wide and 120cm (4ft) long. If the wood is too smooth, you will need to roughen it with saw cuts to enable the bats to cling properly.

       Mark up the plank of wood as shown in the diagram and cut out the pieces for the sides, back, roof and front.

       Cut off the acute angled ends of both of the triangular ‘sides’ as shown to make the entrance slot.

       Drill

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