The Ultimate Guide to Puppy Care and Training. Tracy J. Libby

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The Ultimate Guide to Puppy Care and Training - Tracy J. Libby

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and animal shelters for the same reasons that they end up in rescue organizations. Oftentimes, puppies are whelped and reared in shelter or foster-home environments. Not surprisingly, a particular behavioral problem is the primary reason that most dogs are surrendered to shelters.

      Shelter employees and volunteers do their best to work with these dogs to prepare them for adoption. Some shelters work with local rescues, placing some puppies and adult dogs in foster homes for future adoption. Shelter dogs can and do make excellent companions, but they sometimes have behavioral issues and require special care and training.

      Pet-Supply-Store Adoptions

      A relatively new trend is for large pet-supply stores to work in conjunction with local animal shelters by offering in-store adoptions. These pet superstores open their doors to local animal shelters that bring adoptable dogs to the store for “meet-and-greet” events where the public can interact with all types of dogs in need of homes. Unlike pet-shop dogs, these adoptees are healthy dogs that are available through local animal shelters. Be sure that you know the difference before opening your wallet.

      Signs of a Healthy Puppy

      When you know how to recognize the signs of a healthy puppy, it won’t be too difficult to spot red flags. At first glance, a puppy may appear healthy, but always look for the following:

      •clear, bright eyes with no discharge or swelling of the eyelids

      •pink, odor-free ears free of discharge (healthy ears have a slight doggy smell—a bit like the smell of beeswax)

      •a clean, healthy coat, shiny and bright with no signs of excess scratching, inflamed skin, rashes, hot spots, or bald spots, which could indicate fleas, mites, ringworm, other parasites

      •sweet-smelling “puppy breath”

      •healthy, pink gums (pale gums usually indicate anemia or possibly parasites)

      •cool, moist, and clean nose, free of nasal discharge, and no frequent sneezing or wheezing

      •free movement when walking or playing; no limping

      Chapter 2: Puppy’s First Days at Home

      Once you have found the perfect puppy, the real fun (and work!) begins. Transitioning to a new home can be confusing and disorienting for a baby dog. He may need a few hours, days, or weeks—depending on his temperament and personality—to adjust to his new life. By planning ahead, you can minimize the stress for both you and your puppy.

      Your puppy is counting on you to provide him with a safe and healthy environment, which means puppy-proofing inside and outside. He also needs quality nutrition, regular training, and routine veterinary care. He needs hugs and kisses and cuddling and sweet nothings whispered in his ear. Equally important, you must provide him with guidance and direction, which means setting a regular schedule of eating, pottying, and sleeping. You will need to decide which behaviors are acceptable and which are not, such as jumping on the furniture, sleeping on the bed, begging at the table, snatching food, bolting out doors, and so forth. Household rules should be reinforced from day one to avoid confusing your puppy. Planning ahead will help you avoid the more common mistakes, thereby getting you and your puppy off to a positive start.

      Puppy-Proofing and Boundaries

      Your puppy is too young to understand that your expensive leather shoes are not for teething, your sofa pillows are not playthings, and your floors are not his personal bathroom. Therefore, it is highly recommended that you puppy-proof your house before your puppy arrives. This point cannot be stressed enough. Like toddlers, puppies are curious and have an abundance of energy. They will want to explore their surroundings and try to put everything in their mouths—whether it fits or not.

      Start by getting down on your puppy’s level and taking a look around. What can your puppy get into? What can he eat? What can he climb on? Anything and everything that you think he won't eat or chew—he will! He is not being a naughty puppy; he is simply being a puppy.

      Plenty of potential dangers are lurking in your home, so you must look at everything from a puppy’s perspective. What do you see? Shoes, books, magazines lying around? What about a remote control, cell phone, iPad? Pick up or put away anything your puppy is likely to seek out and destroy, including slippers, books, decorative pillows, candy dishes, and so forth. Electrical cords must be safely concealed behind furniture or under rugs or taped to baseboards because they can cause serious injury or death if a puppy chews on them. Prescription drugs, cleaning supplies, detergents, and poisonous houseplants are a disaster waiting to happen if your puppy eats them. Shoelaces, buttons, socks, marbles, thumbtacks, and paper clips, if swallowed, can cause life-threatening intestinal blockages and may require emergency surgery to remove.

      Puppy-proof your yard, garden, and outdoor areas, too. Some puppies are climbers, others are diggers, and some are escape artists, eager to muscle their way through the tiniest openings. Make sure your yard is puppy-proofed by securing all fencing and gates and making repairs if needed. Puppies are inquisitive, and if you think he can escape through it, then he will. If your property is not fenced, be sure your puppy is leashed every time he goes outdoors. Puppies are fast and can dart into the road before you finish tying your shoes. Unfortunately, they don't have the mental wherewithal to understand that the street is a dangerous place to be. It is your job to keep your puppy safe.

      Pick up hoses, sprinklers, and lawn ornaments that your puppy will likely try to chew. Store containers of poisonous products—antifreeze, fertilizers, herbicides, and the like—on high shelves and out of puppy’s reach. (Consider using nontoxic, animal-friendly products.) Be mindful of products, such as fertilizers, pesticides, rock salt, deicers, or slug bait, that have been applied to your yard or garden area. Many of these products are toxic and can seriously harm your puppy should he ingest them.

      African violets, Christmas cactus, and calla lilies are a few of the countless plants that are toxic to dogs. Be sure to keep them far from your puppy’s reach. Check your yard for mushrooms, too, because some of them also can cause your puppy serious harm should he ingest them.

      Don't overlook balconies! If your house or apartment has one, be sure that it is puppy-proofed so your puppy cannot squeeze through the railings and escape or, worse yet, tumble over the edge. Inexpensive chicken wire can be used to form a temporary barrier. A baby gate across the doorway will keep your puppy from venturing onto the balcony on his own.

      You must carefully consider swimming pools, ponds, waterscapes, streams, and so forth for your puppy’s long-term safety. While many older puppies can swim, your youngster may not be able to find an easy means of escape should he climb or fall into a pool or pond.

      While puppy-proofing may seem a bit overwhelming, it is a necessity. Keeping your puppy safe will save you a good deal of money and heartache down the road.

      Americans Spend

      The American Pet Products Association reports that pet owners spent an estimated $55.72 billion (yes, billion!) dollars on pet supplies in 2013—topping the $53.33 billion spent in 2012.

      Start with the Right Stuff

      Who doesn’t love to shop? Ornamental beds, designer sweaters, doggie boots, IQ-boosting toys, automatic water dispensers, and custom crates that look like furniture—the list is endless, and with thousands of online vendors, you can shop ’til you drop without ever leaving your house! Basic essentials for your new puppy include a dog bed, collar and leash, crate, exercise pen, food and water bowls, identification, and an assortment of training toys and chew toys. You will also need a brush or two, nail clippers,

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