The Ultimate Guide to Puppy Care and Training. Tracy J. Libby

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The Ultimate Guide to Puppy Care and Training - Tracy J. Libby

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head halter goes over your dog’s face and applies pressure to the back of the neck rather than the front of the throat. While a head halter can be very effective for some breeds, it is not designed for brachycephalic (short-faced) breeds, such as the Pug and Bulldog. Many dogs object to head halters, so you may need to consult a trainer for alternative solutions.

      You may decide to choose a harness for your new puppy. While a harness will take the pressure off of a puppy’s trachea, it will not keep him from pulling. In fact, harnesses on many types of dogs—such as Siberian Huskies, which are bred to run and run and run, and pit bulls, which are strong pullers—will teach a dog to pull, which is the opposite of what you're trying to accomplish. A variety of models are available in different shapes, sizes, and materials. It is best to seek professional advice in order to correctly fit your puppy with a harness and prevent chafing.

      Leashes

      Countless choices exist when it comes to leashes. A lot will depend on the size and strength of the dog you have chosen, how much money you are willing to spend, and your personal preference. Ideally, you should have several leashes—at least one for home and a spare to keep in your car. You never know when you’ll need it.

      A good quality leather leash is expensive but well worth the investment. Leather leashes are kinder and gentler on your hands, which is important because you will be using your leash frequently. The more you use a leather leash, the softer and more pliable it becomes. A well-cared-for leather leash will last a lifetime. If neglected, however, leather leashes can become cracked and brittle and may possibly break. Puppies love to chew leather, too, so be mindful of where you leave your leash lying around.

      Nylon leashes are lightweight and relatively inexpensive, but they are not always the best choice for medium or large dogs because they are hard on your hands and can slice your fingers should your dog lunge or give a good pull.

      Chain leads are noisy, heavy, cumbersome, and unnecessary.

      Rope leashes made from recycled climbing rope are softer than nylon and have a smidge of elasticity to them. Ideal for most breeds, they are durable; come in a wide range of styles, lengths, and fashionable colors; and are gentle on your hands.

      Retractable leashes are designed to extend and retract at the touch of a button. While some trainers use retractable leashes for teaching puppy recalls, many trainers recommend them only on well-behaved dogs that respond to voice commands. While a retractable leash allows your puppy a bit more privacy to do his business, sniff, and explore, the downside is that the leash can quickly become tangled around fence posts, bushes, trees, or other dogs if you are attempting to walk more than one dog at the same time. If a strong or determined puppy gets too far out on the leash, you may have trouble reeling him in.

      Depending on the size and breed of your dog, you will need to weigh the pros and cons of using a retractable leash. If you go this route, be sure to invest in a good-quality retractable leash designed for your breed. A thin retractable leash will be no good for a Staffordshire Bull Terrier, while a large, heavy leash will be too weighty for a Pomeranian.

      Puppy Brushes

      Countless types of brushes—from slickers to boar hair to wire pin—are available, and the equipment you choose for grooming depends largely on your puppy’s coat type and texture. A slicker works well for removing dead undercoat and debris from double-coated breeds; however, it will cause breakage on the long hair of drop-coated breeds. A brush with soft metal pins on a rubber-cushioned base, one in which the pins will give and not break the hair, are good for most breeds because they can work through the top coat and undercoat easily.

      Metal combs can be used to help break up mats and remove stubborn undercoat. A curry comb, hound glove, and canine chamois work well on short- or smooth-coated breeds.

      Newly Adopted Puppies

      Depending on where and from whom you acquired your puppy, he may be a high flight risk. Maybe he has a history of escaping, which may be how he ended up at a shelter or rescue organization. Busy, excitable puppies that are too young or lack adequate recall or obedience training can easily escape and get lost. It can take a long time for some puppies and young dogs to get used to new homes, sounds, people, routines, and so forth. If you are uncertain about your puppy’s history or training, you should always assume that he is at high risk of escaping and take precautions. Go beyond what you think is necessary, and the odds of keeping your pet off the “lost” list will increase greatly.

      Identification

      The importance of proper identification cannot be stressed enough. No one expects his or her dog to go missing, but accidents happen, and the nightmare of losing a dog happens to thousands of responsible owners every day. Dogs dig under fences, bolt out of car doors, or escape through gates or doors accidentally left open. A resourceful dog can climb up on a table or chair and escape over a fence (Yes! That happens.) Dogs can easily slip outside unnoticed as visitors are arriving or leaving. Taking preventive measures can save your dog’s life. That’s why making sure your puppy is properly identified is crucial. Be smart. Do it today!

      ID Tags: Your puppy should have an ID tag with up-to-date information, including, at the minimum, your name and telephone number. They are relatively inexpensive and well worth the investment because they are your puppy’s ticket home should he become lost or separated from you. Readily available at retail pet outlets and from mail-order catalogs and online vendors, tags come in a variety of shapes, sizes, colors, and materials and easily attach to your dog’s buckle collar with an “S” clip or good-quality split ring. Nameplates that attach directly to your dog’s collar are also available and eliminate the unmistakable, not to mention frequently annoying, jingling noise produced by multiple tags dangling from a puppy’s collar.

      Check the collar and tag regularly for wear and tear, as collars often break or slip off a dog—leaving him with no identification. Some nylon collars have contact information embroidered right into them, so if the tags ever fall off, your contact information remains on the collar.

      Microchips: Next to your puppy, modern technology is your best friend because it provides the latest in identification options and a better form of permanent identification. A silicon microchip about the size of a grain of rice is painlessly inserted under a puppy’s skin. Developed in the late 1980s for the pet market, the microchip contains an unalterable identification number that is recorded in a central database along with your name, address, telephone number, and email address. The microchip is scanned and the identification number is read via a handheld electronic scanner. Most universal scanners can detect and read the frequencies of all major brands of microchips.

      Once your puppy is microchipped, you will need to register the identification number. Most registries and pet-recovery assistance programs register all brands of microchips. AVID®, Home Again®, and AKC Reunite® are among the largest providers of microchip and pet-recovery services. Smaller online registries are available, but you will need to do your due diligence. It is important you understand the assistance provided and the costs associated with each brand of microchip. Trained 24-7 pet-recovery assistance may or may not be provided with smaller registries.

      Many breeders microchip their puppies before sending them to their new homes. Many animal shelters microchip the dogs that come into their facilities. If you're uncertain whether or not your puppy is “chipped”—have your veterinarian scan for an existing microchip to eliminate the possibility of duplication.Also, get in the habit of asking your vet to scan your dog several times a year, or anytime you are at the vet’s clinic, because microchips can migrate or stop functioning.

      GPS Devices: You can track down a lost cell phone, computer, or car—so why not your dog? GPS provides this option, with several different brands

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