for pattern) or cut them out to a shape of your own design.
3: Cut the housing for the side rails as shown. Cut these to suit the exact dimensions of the side pieces in case these differ from those given in the cutting list. These housing joints, when well made and glued and nailed or screwed together, add considerably to the rigidity of the finished bench.
4: Now shape the ends of the side rails as shown and smooth off all sawed edges and sharp corners.
5: Mark pencil guidelines 1.5 in. (38 mm) in and square across on each end of the side rails as an aid to nailing or screwing. Note the 1 in. (25 mm) overlap over the end pieces. This extra length reduces the risk of splitting when the side rails are joined to the end pieces.
6: Mark pencil guidelines square across the top, 4.5 in. (114 mm) in from each end and, parallel to the edge, 1.5 in. (38 mm) in from each edge. These, too, are an aid to nailing (or screwing).
7: The bench can be nailed together in traditional fashion, using finishing nails. Take care not to split the wood, especially when fitting the side rails. Punch the nail heads below the surface and fill the indentations.
8: As an alternative, you can join the bench together using countersunk screws. Drill and counterbore the holes to accommodate the screws and the wooden plugs glued in on top to conceal them. If hardwood is being used, it must be screwed together.
9: Begin assembly by joining the side rails to the end pieces. Apply glue first to strengthen the joints. Nail or screw as required.
10: Check that the basic frame remains square and then wipe off surplus glue and leave it to dry.
11: Check that the top will fit correctly. Line up the pencil guidelines to give about a 4 in. (102 mm) overhang at each end and a 1 in. (25 mm) overhang over each side rail.
12: Using the pencil lines as a guide, nail or screw the top into both ends and side pieces. The nails or screws will hold better in the side rails than in the end grain of the end pieces.
13: Punch all nail heads below the surface and fill the indentations, or glue and plug the counterbored screw holes.
14: Remove the pencil marks and sand all surfaces clean. Round over all sharp edges, especially those on the top of the seat.
15: Finish according to your choice by clear varnishing, staining, or painting. If the bench is to be used regularly outdoors, the application of a suitable wood preservative will prolong the life of the bench, especially if pine was used in its construction.
Shaker Shelves & Pegboard
The utopian religious movement of the Shakers originated in France but was led in the late-18th century by Ann Lee, from Manchester, England, who emigrated to the United States in 1774. In 1776, she founded the parent Shaker community at Niskayuna, about 7 miles from Albany, New York.
Their numbers are now greatly reduced, and the Shakers are best known today for the excellence and simplicity of the work of their craftspeople. Part of the Shaker belief is that work is a form of religious devotion. Within their strict creed—“hands to work and hearts to God”—they create a simple beauty in all they do; functionalism predominates and ornamentation is regarded as unnecessary “worldly show.” Their furniture is plain but always beautifully proportioned. Of their many endeavors, the Shakers are perhaps best known for their fine furniture and wooden artifacts. Many of today’s top furniture and interior designers have embraced the purity of Shaker form and style. The simple utility of the hanging set of shelves seen here is typical of their work. Shelves very much like these are made for use in all living and working areas of the Shaker house to hold personal effects, kitchen utensils, and objects pertaining to work. Rooms are also routinely fitted with horizontal pegboards, often in continuous lengths and set at a uniform height, equally used to accommodate all manner of objects, and hanging the shelves (and even furniture) from them is a common Shaker practice.
SHELVES
ABILITY LEVEL
Novice
SIZE
25 x 22 x 7 in. (635 x 559 x 178 mm)
MATERIALS
Pine, Cherry, Beech
CUTTING LIST
2 sides
22 x 7 x .625 in. (559 x 178 x 16 mm)
3 shelves
25 x 7 x .625 in. (635 x 178 x 16 mm)
PEGBOARD
ABILITY LEVEL
Novice
SIZE
(Pegs)
5 x 1.5 x 1.5 in. (127 x 38 x 38 mm)
(Board)
48 x 3.5 x .75 in. (1219 x 89 x 19 mm)
MATERIALS
(Pegs)
Cherry, Oak, Maple, Beech
(Board)
Pine
CUTTING LIST
(Pegs)
3 pieces 5 x 1.5 x 1.5 in. (127 x 38 x 38 mm)
(Board)
1 piece 48 x 3.5 x .75 in. (1219 x 89 x 19 mm)
1: Begin by planing the edges of the shelves and gluing pieces to make wider boards if necessary. Note that the shelves decrease in width toward the top: the middle shelf is approximately 6 in. (152 mm) wide, while the top shelf is about 5 in. (127 mm) wide.
2: Cut all pieces accurately to length, making sure that they are perfectly square across their ends.
3: Depending on the condition of the wood, plane or sand back all the surfaces so that they are smooth.
4: Cut both side pieces to the correct tapering shape as shown and plane or sand back the sawed edges.
