Traditional Country Woodworking Projects. Jack Hill

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Traditional Country Woodworking Projects - Jack Hill

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to be too tight at this stage because it will be secured later by wedging.

      11: When all three legs fit, mark pencil lines on their ends to indicate the orientation of the saw cuts needed for the wedges. It is important that the wedges are inserted at right angles to the grain of the wood of the stool top. Otherwise, the force of the wedge could easily split the wood.

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      12: Remove the legs and make 1.25 in. (32 mm) saw cuts for the wedges.

      13: Following the dimensions given, make three wedges. Always use a hardwood for the wedges. Make sure that the grain runs down the length of the wedge and not across its width. Try using wood of a contrasting color to give the wedges an added decorative touch.

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      14: Clean up all the component pieces. Prepare to assemble the stool by first inserting a little glue into each leg socket. Next, fit the legs so that their tops protrude slightly through the top of the stool.

      15: Align each leg so that the wedges will lie at right- angles to the grain of the seat (see step 11 above).

      16: Stand the stool upright on a flat, solid surface. Fit the wedges and tap each one partway in using a ha mmer. Then tap each one again in turn until they are tightly fitting. The weight of a hammer is better for this than a wooden mallet. Check the stability of the stool, wipe off any surplus glue, and leave it to dry.

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      17: When it is dry, saw off the protruding stub ends of the legs and wedges so they are almost flush with the stool seat, taking care not to damage its surface. Clean off the saw marks with a sharp chisel or block plane.

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      18: Saw or rasp off the inside bottom edges of each leg close to the angle made with the floor surface. Then smooth the completed stool with an abrasive paper and apply a suitable finish (see Finishing chapter for advice). Traditionally, milking stools were left unfinished.

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      Traditional Whirligig

      The easiest definition of a “whirligig” is “a type of wind-driven toy,” although spinning tops, beetles, and swivel chairs have also been known by this name. Actuated by all types of mechanisms, and driven by an assortment of different propeller designs, they can be much more complex than the word “toy” suggests. Whether whimsical weather vanes or wind-powered wonderments, they are often painted in bright colors. Their objective is entirely non-functional and their intention is simply to entertain and delight. Whirligigs were particularly popular in the United States during the 19th century, and they are now enjoying something of a revival.

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      ABILITY LEVEL

      Novice/Intermediate

      SIZE

      20 x 18 x 1.5 in. (508 x 457 x 38 mm)

      MATERIALS

      Wood, waterproof plywood, metal

      CUTTING LIST

      Wood

      1 platform

      16 x 1 x .875 in. (406 x 25 x 22 mm)

      1 pivot block

      3 x 1 x .875 in. (76 x 25 x 22 mm)

      1 drive shaft. block

      3 x 1.5 x .875 in. (76 x 38 x 22 mm)

      1 propeller hub

      3 x 3 x 1 in. (76 x 76 x 25 mm)

      4 pieces dowel

      5 x .5 in. (127 x 12 mm) diameter

      1 small wooden bead

      Waterproof plywood (or wood)

      Figure parts, axe, propeller blades, tail, chopping block

      24 x 12 x .25 in. (610 x 305 x 6 mm)

      Metal

      1 piece threaded rod

      5.5 x .25 in. (140 x 6 mm) diameter

      6 nuts and washers

      .25 in. (6 mm) diameter (to suit rod)

      1 large flange washer

      .25 in. x 1 .5 in. (6 x 38 mm) OD

      1 piece brass tubing

      5 x .3125 in. (127 x 8 mm) OD

      1 machine screw

      2 x .1875 in. (51 x 4 mm) diameter

      1 nut and 4 washers to suit machine screw

      1 small screw eye, assorted nails, and screws for assembly

      1 piece stiff wire for connecting rod

      OD = outside diameter

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      1: Using the templates from the Templates chapter, mark and cut out all of the parts for the figure. Cut one body, two waists, two legs, and two arms. Clean up all sawed edges.

      2: Glue the arms and waists to the body, one either side as shown. Clamp the work until the glue is dry.

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      3: When dry, drill the figure pivot hole through to clear the .1875 in. (4 mm) machine screw. Align and drill corresponding holes through the legs at the same time.

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      4: Attach the legs to the figure using the machine screw, placing the washers as shown to reduce friction. Check that the movement is free and then put it aside until later.

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      5: Mark and cut out the remaining plywood/wood components. Clean up the sawed edges.

      6: From the same material, cut out the chopping block parts and glue these together as shown in the picture for step 14.

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      7: Cut the platform, drive shaft block, and pivot block to length. Make a .25 in. (6 mm) slot in one end of the platform for the tail to be fitted later. Then carefully drill a .3125 in. (8 mm) diameter hole through

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