to complete the examination of the west side down to the coast seen by captain Cook.
Aug. 7. At daylight, a sloping hummock, in latitude 24° 50', bore W. 16° N., our distance off the shore under it being one mile and a half, and the depth 7 fathoms. At nine, the water shoaled suddenly, and obliged us to haul off north-eastward. The coast was then seen extending to the W. N. W., and having been laid down by captain Cook, the north-eastern course was continued for Break-sea Spit, and the examination of Hervey's Bay concluded.
This inlet is about fifteen leagues across, from the sloping hummock to the eastern extremity of Sandy Cape, and nearly as much in depth. The east side is formed by a great sandy peninsula, of which the cape is the northern extremity; but about half way up, there are several white cliffs, and others in the upper bay, which had the appearance of chalk. The shores at the head and on the west side are more rocky than sandy. The back land is low for some miles, and not ill covered with grass and wood; it then rises to hills of considerable elevation, amongst which Double Mount was most remarkable. The smokes in different places bespoke the country to be inhabited in the scanty numbers usual on other parts of the east coast; but none of the people were seen.
Aug. 7, at ten in the evening, we passed the end of Break-sea Spit in 13 fathoms, and hauled up south-east; but the winds were so unfavourable, that on the 14th our latitude was no more than 29° 19'. I kept the land barely within sight, in order to obtain the greatest advantage from the southwardly current; for, contrary to captain Cook's observation, it was found to be strongest at the distance of six, and from thence to twenty leagues. Close in with the shore, more especially in the bights which fall within the general line of the coast, an eddy had been found setting to the northward.
Light northern winds favoured us for two days; but returning to the south-west, and sometimes blowing strong, it was the 20th in the evening before the sloop was secured in Port Jackson, although the current had set us 210 miles on the way.
I must acknowledge myself to have been disappointed in not being able to penetrate into the interior of New South Wales, by either of the openings examined in this expedition; but, however mortifying the conviction might be, it was then an ascertained fact, that no river of importance intersected the East Coast between the 24th and 39th degrees of south latitude.
CONCLUSIVE REMARKS.
The account of the discoveries which resulted from the establishment of the colony in New South Wales, closes with this expedition; and it remains only to point out what was wanted to be done in these parts of Terra Australis.
(Atlas, Plate I.)
In Van Diemen's Land, the opening round Point St. Vincent and the space between Maria's Island and Cape Portland required to be further explored. The north side also, from the want of a time keeper in the Norfolk, required to have the longitude of its points better ascertained; and that the bight between Circular Head and Cape Grim should be examined. In Bass' Strait, some of the islands were known, but the middle of the strait and its western entrance were in want of much investigation, before it could be deemed a safe passage for ships; and the greater part of the coast on the north side, remained as laid down by Mr. Bass, with all the uncertainty attending the navigation of an open boat.
On the east coast of New South Wales, from Bass' Strait to Bustard Bay in latitude 24°, the shore might be said to be well explored; but from thence northward to Cape York, there were several portions which had either been passed by captain Cook in the night, or at such a distance in the day time, as to render their formation doubtful: The coast from 15° 30' to 14° 30' was totally unknown.
The following openings or bights had been seen and named by captain Cook, but were yet unexamined: Keppel and Shoal-water Bays; Broad Sound; Repulse, Edgecumbe, Cleveland, Halifax, Rockingham, and Weary Bays. To the northward of these were Weymouth, Temple, Shelburne, and Newcastle Bays; and perhaps many others which distance did not permit our great navigator to notice. There was also a numerous list of islands, of which a few only had been examined; and several were merely indicated from a distant view.
From 16° northward to Cape York, an extensive chain of reefs had been found to lie at a considerable distance from the coast, without side of the islands; and two vessels from Port Jackson had met with others further south, extending nearly from 21° to 23°. It was of importance to ascertain the limits of these vast bodies of coral, were it only on account of the ships employed in the whale fishery; but in the view to future settlements within the tropic, it was necessary to be known whether these reefs might form such a barrier to the coast, as to render it inaccessible from the eastward: if not, then the open parts were to be ascertained.
Of the persons, manners, and customs of the inhabitants, little new information could be expected. The skirts of their country had been examined in the southern parts, and extensive collections in natural history made there; but to the north of Endeavour River, the country had been seen only at a distance. The vast interior of this new continent was wrapped in total obscurity; and excited, perhaps on that very account, full as much curiosity as did the forms of the shores. This part of the subject, however, will scarcely be thought to belong to a naval expedition; except in so much as rivers and other inlets might conduce to obtaining the desired information.
* * * * *
On a general review of the various objects in Terra Australis, to which investigation might be usefully directed at the commencement of the nineteenth century, and in which natural history, geography, navigation, and commerce were so much interested, the question, Why it should have been thought necessary to send out another expedition? will no longer be asked. But rather it will be allowed that, instead of one, there was ample room for two or three ships; each to be employed for years, and to be conducted with a zeal and perseverance not inferior to the examples given by the best navigators.
On the arrival of His Majesty's ship Reliance in England, at the latter end of 1800, the charts of the new discoveries were published, and a plan was proposed to the Right Hon. SIR JOSEPH BANKS for completing the investigation of the coasts of Terra Australis. The plan was approved by that distinguished patron of science and useful enterprise; it was laid before EARL SPENCER, then first Lord Commissioner of the Admiralty; and finally received the sanction of HIS MAJESTY, who was graciously pleased to direct that the voyage should be undertaken; and I had the honour of being appointed to the command.
BOOK I.
TRANSACTIONS FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE VOYAGE TO THE DEPARTURE FROM PORT JACKSON.
CHAPTER I.
Appointment to the Investigator.
Outfit of the ship.
Instruments, books, and charts supplied, with articles for presents and barter.
Liberal conduct of the Hon. East-India Company.
Passage round to Spithead.
The Roar sand.
Instructions for the execution of the voyage.
French passport, and orders in consequence.
Officers
