the U.S. or Europe directly into these accounts via Swift overnight.
Things changed with the sanctions. I had only been in Moscow a few months when Sberbank was sanctioned. It meant I could no longer receive funds from the U.S. and Europe. So, I began a search for an unsanctioned bank. I went through the same process again with Alfa Bank, and set up all the necessary accounts. A few weeks later, it was also sanctioned. The third time I chose a bank headquartered in Italy, UniCredit Bank which has offices all over Moscow. I was becoming an expert in Russian banking. The process was the same in each bank and the banking rules are consistent. U.S. dollars and euros can be deposited but not withdrawn as of now. All currencies must be changed to rubles.
Each bank has applications for laptops or phones. I can move money by phone instantly to any of my accounts, as well as pay a bill or send money to an individual, free of charge. Checks are not used in Russia. A savings account for deposits pays 4.93% interest.
I now have nine accounts in three currencies in three banks. I’m keeping them all open just in case.
International Media and Internet Access
To the disbelief of my American and European friends, I’m able to access any media in the world, via any search engine like Google, Yandex (the Russian search engine), DuckDuckGo, Bing, YouTube, or Telegram. I can find any news outlet video or podcast I wish. Internet is available on the metro and buses, in parks – almost everywhere in central Moscow – for free.
Cost of Living in Moscow
My experience is that the cost of living in Moscow is about 50% less than Europe and far less than the United States. Numbeo is a crowd-sourced online database of perceived consumer prices, real property prices, and quality-of-life metrics. There you can compare living costs and quality-of-life metrics between any two cities in the world in any currency. It’s fascinating to compare cities and very useful for anyone contemplating a relocation. Their website is: https://www.numbeo.com
Restaurants and Cafe’s in Moscow
Every type of international cuisine is available in Moscow for any taste or budget. The Michelin Guide Moscow 2022 includes 69 restaurants.
Russian ethnic restaurants are also plentiful, representing gastronomy from former Soviet republics such as Georgia, Uzbekistan, and Ukraine. You can also find a variety of restaurants of typical Russian cuisine, from Russian fast food and buffets to Russian haute cuisine restaurants. Most restaurants have delivery services to all parts of Moscow.
Self-service or buffet-style restaurants are ideal for the budget-conscious. You can find them in central locations and in shopping centers. The quality and diversity of food available is consistently high.
Food Markets in Moscow
This is a paradise for «foodies.» There are several huge, covered warehouse markets selling every kind of food product – fresh, frozen, local, or imported – that cater to businesses or individuals. While fascinating to experience, their size can be overwhelming for personal shopping. I prefer smaller-scale supermarkets, which are plentiful. The product selections in the different supermarket chains reflect the brands and prices of the products sold. Finally, there are gourmet stores that feature high-end Russian and imported fresh and packaged foods. Both the supermarkets and gourmet stores have very large selections of prepared foods, which are very fresh and moderately priced.
In spring and summer, there are many covered markets throughout the city that specialize in the best fruits, vegetables, dairy, and pastries frequently coming from the southern parts of Russia or former Soviet republics, many of which are premier agricultural regions.
Dachas and Banyas
Muscovites live in apartments up to 30 stories high. A very high percentage have a dacha outside the city where they spend weekends and holidays. Most of the dachas are located in specific geographic areas dedicated to dacha communities. Many dachas have been passed down through generations, though many new dachas are also being built today. They all have «kitchen gardens,» where fruits and vegetables are grown and harvested for the winter months. Forests usually surround the dacha «communities,» where mushrooms and berries are collected by all.
A Russian banya is a type of a steam sauna that’s usually heated in a stove. It’s an old tradition that’s existed in Russia for centuries. Steam bathing is considered good for relaxation and health, an opportunity to spend quality time with friends, family, and colleagues, and a way to socialize that bypasses the usual boundaries, creating an atmosphere of camaraderie. Since ancient times, the banya has been considered an important bonding place in Russian culture.
Modern Russian banyas are divided into men and women areas. Swimwear isn’t used, with everyone getting completely naked and wrapping themselves with towels. Another element of the banya is being smacked briskly with a bunch of leafy branches, which provides a unique detox for the whole body and helps boost the immune system. Many families have a banya in their country homes, or dachas. It’s used as a shower, sauna, and bath combined.
I was invited to visit the dacha of Galina, the mother of my friend from St. Petersburg. She and I exchanged gifts frequently on her son’s visits to France. She kept me supplied with honey, fruit jams, and the finest pickled cucumbers. Her garden is quite large, and she’s out there working from morning to sunset. I helped her harvest cucumbers, after which we pickled them. We also made fresh apple juice from her trees and she taught me to make blinis. She prepared a banya for me (my first), together with hot/cold water, soap, steam, and a mild «thrashing» with branches of leaves. I repeated the process for her. Then we finished it off with a shot of cognac. She sent me back to Moscow with a huge supply of cucumbers and herbs to make my own pickles.
CHAPTER 6
Social Life In Russia
Russians enjoy an active and spirited social life. Gatherings of family and friends are frequent and usually take place around the kitchen table, where food is abundant and toasts are frequent. Musical talents are encouraged throughout society, so usually someone plays an instrument, or sings and the group joins in singing along. Sometimes even dancing breaks out. Children are also encouraged to participate by performing. Starting at five or six years old, they learn to recite poems and recite fairy tales by famous Russian poets.
Telling anecdotes or jokes is also a form of entertainment. They’re considered a form of literature, and may be ribald, historical, or cultural, sometimes all three at once. It’s a way for guests to show their historical and cultural knowledge and to entertain the group. Some of the anecdotes also have recurring characters and, with their intrinsic quirks and similar patterns, constitute entire series of jokes.
Russian anecdotes can be about everything and anything: politics, stereotypes, nationalities, professions, religion, life and death. Joking about tragedies or tabooed topics is also okay, and most people consider the use of explicit language acceptable if it’s essential for telling a story. It doesn’t really matter if everyone already knows the anecdote. Telling a well-known anecdote in a new or different way is much appreciated. Knowing and sharing the same anecdotes create the feeling of fellowship among people.
Mikhail Prishvin’s works are full of poetry, vivid descriptions of nature, and they display an exceptional keenness of observation. The anecdote below is a parody of his style. Reciting it will bring loud applause from the guests who’ve previously heard variations of it.
