Примечания
1
Laugier M. A. Essai sur l’architecture. Paris, 1753.
2
Loos A. Praise for the Present // Adolf Loos. Why a Man Should be Well Dressed / Тransl. M. E. Troy. Vienna, 2011. P. 14–15.
3
Ostick E. Textiles for Tailors. London, c. 1950.
4
Owen N., Jones A. C. A Comparative Study of the British and Italian Textile and Clothing Industries // DTI Economics Paper. 2003. Vol. 2. P. 38–39.
5
Ibid. Р. 39.
6
Vincent S. Dressing the Elite: Clothes in Early Modern England. Oxford, 2003. P. 104–107. Collier Frick C. Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes and Fine Clothing. Baltimore, MD, 2002. P. 228–230. См. также: Rublack U. Dressing Up: Cultural Identity in Renaissance Europe. Oxford, 2010.
7
Currie E. Diversity and Design in the Florentine Tailoring Trade, 1550–1620 // The Material Renaissance / Ed. by M. O’Malley and E. Welch. Manchester, 2007. P. 154.
8
Ibid. Р. 163–168.
9
Kuchta D. The Three-piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850. Berkeley, CA, 2002. P. 162–178.
10
Flügel J. C. The Psychology of Clothes. London, 1930. P. 113.
11
Kuchta D. Op. cit. P. 17–50.
12
Hollander A. Sex and Suits: The Evolution of Modern Dress. New York, 1995. P. 63–110. (Холландер Э. Пол и костюм. Эволюция современной одежды [пер. с англ. Е. Канищевой, Л. Сумм]. М.: Новое литературное обозрение, 2018.)
13
Breward C. Manliness, Modernity and the Shaping of Male Clothing // Body Dressing / Ed. by J. Entwistle and E. Wilson. Oxford, 2001. P. 166.
14
Giles E. History of the Art of Cutting in England. London, 1887. P. 118.
15
Ibid. Р. 124.
16
Cit. ex ibid. Р. 133.
17
Compaing C., Devere L. The Tailor’s Guide. London, 1855. P. 18–19.
18
Giles E. Op. cit. P. 144.
19
Cit. ex ibid. Р. 150.
20
Cit. ex ibid.
21
Эта фирменная фраза использовалась в неоднократно повторявшемся скетче на тему мужской одежды в популярном комедийном шоу Чарли Хигсона и Пола Уайтхауза «The Fast Show», выходившем в эфир с 1994 по 1997 год на канале BBC.
22
Holding T. H. The Tailor and Cutter. 1880. July 15. P. 245.
23
Paoletti J. B. Ridicule and Role Models as Factors in American Men’s Fashion Change 1880–1910 // Costume. 1985. Vol. 39. P. 121–134.
24
Anon. The New Style of Tailoring // The London Tailor. 1898. August 13. P. 1.
25
Owen N., Jones A. C. Op. cit. P. 52.
26
Hollander A. Op. cit. P. 3. (Холландер Э. Пол и костюм. Эволюция современной одежды [пер. с англ. Е. Канищевой, Л. Сумм]. М.: Новое литературное обозрение, 2018. C. 7.)
27
Carpenter E. Simplification of Life. London, 1886. Cit. ex Burman B. Better and Brighter Clothes: The Men’s Dress Reform Party, 1929–1940 // Journal of Design History. 1995. Vol. 8. No. 4. P. 275.
28
Kuchta D. The Three-piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850. Berkeley, CA, 2002. P. 80.
29
Cit. ex ibid. P. 82.
30
Abler T. S. Hinterland Warriors and Military Dress: European Empires and Exotic Uniforms. Oxford, 1999. P. 11–13.
31
Roche D. The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the Ancien Regime. Cambridge, 1994. P. 237.