Cabbage is found in several varieties in Southeast Asia. The round white cabbage common in temperate climates is grown in cooler areas around the region and eaten both raw and cooked. More frequently found in local markets is Chinese celery cabbage or Napa cabbage, with very long, pale green to almost white overlapping leaves, used both raw and cooked. Another type popular for stir-frying is Chinese white cabbage. This name is somewhat misleading because although the stems are usually bright white, the leaves are either pale or mid-green. This delicately flavored cabbage is widely known abroad as bok choy. Another variety of this cabbage, with green instead of white stems, is often called Shanghai bok choy. Chinese flowering cabbage (choy sam or cai xin) is one of the most delicious members of the cabbage family, with soft mid-green leaves and stems, sometimes sold with delicate yellow flowers visible.
Calamansi lime is medium-sized and round, with a thin green skin that ripens to a pale yellow color. These are commonly used to provide lime juice for countless sauces and other dishes in Southeast Asia. Tahitian or other varieties of lime, or even lemon, can be used as a substitute, although the flavor and fragrance are not identical. Small round green limes (as pictured), are 1 to 1 1/2 in (2.5–4 cm) in diameter and called limau kesturi in Malaysia and lemo in Bali and have a mild and very fragrant juice. They are often sold as calamondin outside Asia, or may be known by their Filipino name, kalamansi. Substitute with regular lime juice, adding, if you like, a few drops of orange juice.
Candlenuts are waxy, cream-colored nuts related to the macadamia. Sold raw, they must be cooked (generally crushed and fried in seasoning pastes) before being eaten. They add texture and a faint flavor to food. Choose candlenuts that are light cream in color, not golden brown, as the latter may be rancid. Candlenuts have a high oil content, so are best refrigerated. Substitute one unsalted macadamia or two cashew nuts for each candlenut.
Cardamom is a Southwest Indian spice used to flavor some curries and sweet dishes. Whole cardamom pods have a fibrous straw-colored bark that encloses about 12 to 16 intensely fragrant black seeds. Generally, whole pods—slit with a knife and bruised to help release their fragrance—are used. You could substitute a pinch of cardamom seeds for one whole cardamom; ready-ground cardamom is not recommended as it loses its fragrance very quickly.
Chayote, originated in Central America, is also known as choko, christophene, custard marrow and vegetable pear. The last name describes its size and shape perfectly. Chayote has a delicate flavor and, when young and raw, a pleasant crisp texture. In most of Southeast Asia, however, the vegetable is cooked. Be sure to peel off the wrinkled, somewhat prickly skin; the central seed is edible.
Chinese celery is a small pungent plant, with leaves resembling large, dark green coriander leaves (cilantro). It is used as a flavoring herb and not as a vegetable, particularly in Malaysia and Indonesia. The leaves are often used as a garnish for soups (in fact, the Malay name for this translates as “soup leaf”) and for noodles. Chinese celery plants can be refrigerated for up to one week with the roots in a jar containing a little water; cover the plant and jar with a large plastic bag.
Chinese rice wine is used in Chinese-inspired recipes and sometimes added to marinades in other local dishes. The best Chinese rice wine is from Shaoxing in China; use dry sherry as a substitute.
Cinnamon may have been specified in these recipes, but the flavoring bark used in Southeast Asia is in fact from the cassia tree, a related species with a thicker, darker and more pungently flavored bark than true Ceylon cinnamon. Since cassia is generally labeled “cinnamon” when sold, I’ve used this name throughout the recipes, but cassia is what you should be using.
Chili is a Central American native and available in Southeast Asia in many different varieties of varying heat and flavor. The heat comes from an enzyme known as capsaicin, which is present in the seeds and membranes. Take care to wash your hands carefully after dealing with chilies, as the juice will sting—don’t ever rub your eyes or nose when working with chilies. Fresh finger-length chilies are used either green or red. The most common type are about finger length and of moderate intensity. Fresh chilies are often crushed to use as a seasoning; one finger-length chili is roughly equal to one teaspoon of crushed chili. It is possible to buy jars of crushed chili (generally mixed with a little salt), which can be kept refrigerated and these are an acceptable substitute for finger-length chilies. Crushed chili is sometimes sold under the Dutch-Indonesian name, sambal oelek or ulek. Generally speaking, the smaller and thinner the chili, the greater the heat. Small bird’s-eye chilies are much hotter and also have a different flavor and aroma to finger-length chilies. Bird’s-eye chilies can range in size from the aptly (if indelicately) named “rat’s dropping chili” which can be as tiny as1/2 in (1 cm), up to 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 in (3–4.5 cm) in length. Green, orange and red bird’s-eye chilies are all used, generally in spicy dips and relishes. Fresh chilies can be stored whole in a plastic bag in the freezer; remove them and slice or chop while they are still frozen. If you want the full flavor of chilies, but less heat, discard some of the seeds before using. Dried chilies give a much deeper red color to food and lack the smell of fresh chilies. They are usually cut into short lengths and soaked in hot water until soften, 10 to 15 minutes depending on the thickness of the chili. Dried chilies vary in intensity; the hottest I have tasted come, surprisingly, from China; Thai dried chilies are hot but not unbearably so, while some Indian varieties are actually quite mild. When buying dried chilies, make sure they still have a good deep color; any which are fading in color or breaking up will be passing their use-by date pretty soon. Dried chilies should keep a few months on the shelf, or almost indefinitely refrigerated. Toasted or dry-roasted dried chilies are coarsely crushed to make crushed dried chili flakes, sometimes sold as “chili flakes.” These are always served on the table in Thailand as a condiment. Dried red chilies ground to a very fine powder are sold as ground red pepper (cayenne); do not confuse this with American ground red pepper which contains black pepper and oregano and is used in Mexican dishes. Ground red pepper (cayenne) is sometimes added during cooking to provide heat when other types of chili are not used. A final tip for when someone has eaten a fiery chili and is suffering: don’t drink water, eat a spoonful of sugar instead. This is remarkably effective. Chili sauce is widely used in South-east Asia as a condiment. Many manufactured chili sauces have added garlic or ginger; some are sweet, others quite acidic and the chili content (read heat factor) differs considerably. One of the most widely exported chili sauces is a Thai blend of chili, garlic and vinegar sold as Sriracha chili sauce. Perhaps the most versatile dipping sauce is the mild combination of chilies, ginger and sugar often labeled “ sweet Thai chili sauce;” this is particularly good with grilled chicken and fish. Most brands of chili sauce can be kept on the shelf, although you might like to refrigerate it if you want to store it for many months.
Coconut is one of the most useful plants in the region, although not found everywhere in Southeast Asia. The flesh of the mature coconut is grated and squeezed to make coconut milk. The water from inside the young coconuts (often sold abroad in cans as “coconut juice”) is sometimes used to simmer meat (it has a tenderizing effect) and also enjoyed as a cooling drink. Although nothing matches fresh coconut milk for use in cakes and desserts, adequate substitutes are available. If I can’t get fresh coconut milk, I prefer
