of crisp-fried shallots are normally available in Asian stores, but it is easy to make your own (see page 22).
Shrimp crackers are dried wafers made from shrimp and starch (generally tapioca flour) and are very popular as a garnish or snack, especially in Indonesia, where they are known as krupuk. Similar wafers are made with fish, vegetables, or the melinjo nut. All wafers should be stored in an airtight container and must be thoroughly dry before being dropped in very hot oil for a few seconds, until they puff up. (Some local cooks sun-dry them before frying, but you can also use a very low oven.)
Shrimp paste is common everywhere from Burma (where it’s called nagpi) through to Bali (where the local name is terasi) and some form of dried shrimp paste is an important part of Southeast Asian cuisine. Made from fermented salted shrimp pressed into a paste (which can range in texture from moist to firm and dry), dried shrimp paste varies in color from very dark brown through to a purplish pink. This paste is very strong smelling when raw and must be cooked before being eaten (see page 22). It can be stored almost indefinitely in a firmly covered container in a store cupboard. Thick black shrimp paste should not be confused with dried shrimp paste, as it has a different flavor and texture (although it still declares its origin in terms of smell). This black, treacle-like paste is sold in jars, sometimes labeled “black shrimp paste” or “ petis.” It is used in Malaysia and Singapore, particularly by Nonya cooks and also in Indonesia, usually in sauces. The Chinese name is hay koh.
Soy sauce, introduced by the Chinese, is made from salted and fermented soybeans. Widely used in Southeast Asia, the most common type is regular soy sauce, which is a clear medium brown liquid with a salty taste. Dark soy sauce (Chinese brands are often labeled “Superior soy sauce”) is dense black and thicker, somewhat less salty and with a malty tang. In Indonesia, sweet soy sauce (kicup manis) is the most widely used variety. If you can’t obtain this, add 1 teaspoon soft brown sugar to 1 tablespoon of dark soy sauce. If using soy sauce which is naturally fermented (check the label, the best Japanese brands are made in this way), it is best refrigerated after opening. Other types of soy sauce can be kept in a cupboard for many months.
Star anise is native to Southern China and looks like a small dried brown flower with shiny brown seeds within each of its eight petals. Sometimes some of the “petals” of this aniseed-flavored spice get broken; if a whole star anise is required, add more petals to make up the required number. Star anise is particularly popular with braised pork dishes and is essential in Vietnamese beef stock.
Tamarind is a fruit from the huge and decorative tamarind tree. The pods contain flesh-covered seeds which are used either when young and green or, more commonly, picked when mature and used as a pulp. Tamarind juice, which adds a fruity sourness to countless dishes throughout the region, is made from tamarind pulp, soaked in a little water, then squeezed and strained to provide the juice. Tamarind pulp is usually sold as a dark brownish mass, pulp, seeds, fibers and all. Some brands of tamarind pulp are compressed into a very hard brick and are best avoided, as it is concentrated tamarind paste sold in jars. Try to find Thai brands of tamarind pulp, which are usually moist and of good quality. Stored in a jar or firmly covered container on the shelf, tamarind pulp keeps almost indefinitely.
Tapioca is also known as cassava. The tubers of this plant and even the young leaves are sometimes eaten as a vegetable. The starch extracted from the tubers is sometimes dried and made into small balls (see Sago). Tapioca flour is most commonly used in desserts (and is, incidentally, used like talcum powder against prickly heat).
Turmeric belongs to the prolific ginger family. The plant has large soft leaves and is predominantly used for its intensely yellow rhizome. Fresh or frozen turmeric rhizome is sometimes available outside Asia; ground turmeric can be used as a substitute, but although it gives plenty of color, the flavor of ground turmeric is somewhat acrid compared to the fresh rhizome. Turmeric leaf is used as a herb in some Indonesian and Malaysian dishes; there is no substitute.
Vietnamese mint or laksa leaf is a pungent herb with dark, narrow green leaves known by a number of names in the West: polygonum (the botanical name), Vietnamese mint, hot mint, long-stemmed mint and laksa leaf. To help avoid any confusion, here are the major local names: Vietnam, rau ram; Thailand, phak phai; Laos, phak pheo; Malaysia daun kesom; Singapore, daun laksa. This distinctively flavored herb is frequently part of a platter of fresh herbs served with noodle soups in Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam and is added to laksa noodle soup in Singapore and some parts of Malaysia. You can strike Vietnamese mint from plants bought in an Asian store if you live in either a hot or temperate climate. Stand a few stems in water in a glass set in a sunny spot (the window sill, perhaps); as soon as you see white roots appearing, plant it in the soil in a sunny position and water frequently.
Water chestnuts are Chinese vegetable grown in muddy waters. It has an almost milky sweetness and crisp white flesh that retains its delightful texture even after cooking. Rinse well to remove any dirt before peeling, then put into cold water immediately to avoid discoloring. Water chestnuts can be eaten raw or stir-fried. They are minced to add texture and flavor to fillings. They are also added to desserts and sweetmeats, particularly in Thailand.
Water spinach is a popular and highly nutritious leafy green vegetable that grows in damp areas. It goes by a variety of names, including morning glory, water convolvulus and swamp cabbage. It has hollow stems with pointed, mid-green leaves, which have a soft texture and appealing mild flavor when cooked. Young shoots are frequently eaten raw as part of a salad platter or with a dip, while the leaves and tender stems are usually braised. It does not keep well; wrap in damp newspaper or a cloth and refrigerate for one to two days.
Tofu (bean curd) was introduced by the Chinese and has become part of the local diet in much of Southeast Asia. The two most commonly used forms are regular or soft tofu, which is reasonably soft and sold in blocks and pressed tofu, which has been compressed to expel most of the moisture and form a solid cake. Soft tofu is generally used in soups and braised dishes, while pressed tofu is normally deep-fried. Silken tofu (Japanese in origin) is very soft; it is found in some cities in the region and either steamed or added to soups, particularly by cooks of Chinese origin. Fresh tofu should be covered with water and refrigerated; it can be kept for several days. Pasteurized tofu is sold in vacuum packs or plastic tubs outside Southeast Asia; refrigerate until the expiry date. Another type of tofu sometimes added to braised dishes or soups is dried deep-fried tofu, which is generally sold in small rectangles. These are often sold on strings in Asia, but are elsewhere usually packed in plastic. They are light and spongy in texture and need to be dipped briefly in boiling water to remove the oil before being used. Dried deep-fried tofu has an almost nutty flavor and is particularly appreciated for the way it soaks up the liquid to which it is added. It can be kept refrigerated for at least two weeks. Dried tofu skin is the dried skin that forms on top of boiling soy milk. It is dried and sold in sheets as a wrapper or sold in thick crinkled strips about 1 1/4 -in/3-cm wide. Tiny squares of salty fermented tofu, often reddish brown on the outside, are sold in jars and used exclusively as a seasoning (especially with pork) and as a condiment which is often served with
