White fungus sometimes called silver fungus, is generally a pale ivory color and very crinkly in appearance, almost like a dried chrysanthemum. It is used mostly in soupy desserts, where it is enjoyed for its slightly chewy texture and translucent appearance. It should be soaked in warm water to reconstitute.
Wild pepper leaves are sometimes incorrectly called betel leaves in English (cha plu in Thai, bo la lot in Vietnamese, pak i leut in Lao and daun kadok in Malay). They have a pleasant, faintly peppery flavor and are used as a salad herb or, particularly in Thailand and Vietnam, as a food wrapper. These can sometimes be found in Vietnamese food shops and can be kept refrigerated in a cloth for a day or two.
Winged bean is also known as angled or Goa bean. It has a slight touch of bitterness and a pleasant crisp texture. Look for small young beans which snap rather than bend. Before cooking, pinch the tip and pull down any strings. Winged beans are either eaten raw, usually with a dip, or blanched briefly in boiling water, then sliced to make salads. They can also be stir-fried, but do not over-cook or they will lose their crisp texture.
Woodear fungus is used for its slightly chewy texture and dark color. Wood or cloud ear fungus literally grows on trees and has virtually no flavor but is added to soups, salads and vegetable dishes. Two varieties of dried wood ear fungus are available: one is small, thin, crinkly and uniformly black, while the other is larger and thicker with a pale grey or beige underside. There is no difference in flavor, but the smaller version is less chewy and reconstitutes more quickly. It keeps almost indefinitely in a covered container on the shelf. Before using, soak the wood ear fungus in warm water until it softens and swells to about five times its dried size. Small thin fungus pieces will take 5 minutes, while thicker pieces need longer. Drain and cut out any hard central portion, then slice or chop according to the recipe.
Tips and Techniques
The preparation of various Southeast Asian ingredients (such as shallots, lemongrass, etc) is described in Essential Southeast Asian Ingredients (pages 12–21). Some other important tasks which are a little more complex or take longer to describe are discussed here in greater detail.
Dry-roasting Grated Coconut This can be done using either fresh or desiccated coconut; the latter will turn golden much more quickly than freshly grated coconut. Put the coconut in a heavy dry wok and put over low heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until golden all over, about 8 to 10 minutes for fresh coconut, 3 to 4 minutes for desiccated. Remove immediately and cool completely before storing in an airtight container. Sometimes, roasted coconut is pounded while still hot until it turns into an oily paste.
Toasting Dried Shrimp Paste Dried shrimp paste is almost always cooked, except in a few Thai dips. Sometimes, it is added raw to other pounded ingredients which are then fried or simmered, but more often, it is cooked on its own before being added to the dish. Even the most ardent shrimp paste lover will agree that it has an incredibly pungent smell during cooking, so to avoid having to do the job too often and to have a stock of cooked dried shrimp paste on hand, I suggest toasting 1 to 2 tablespoons and keeping it in a sealed jar (you seldom need more than 1 teaspoon per recipe). Do not, however, use ready-toasted dried shrimp paste for dips and sambals; the full flavor of freshly cooked shrimp paste is vital for these.
One of the best ways to cook dried shrimp paste without the smell forcing everyone out of the house is to put the required amount on a piece of foil, folding over a flap and pressing down to make a thin layer. Tuck the edges of the foil in loosely to make a packet, then set this on a wire grill directly over a medium gas flame, or under a broiler or grill. Cook for about 2 minutes, then turn and cook the other side for another couple of minutes. Open the packet to check that the shrimp paste has lost its wet, raw look and smells fragrant. If you don’t have a grill or broiler, you can put the foil package into a wok or nonstick skillet; it may need a little longer to cook.
Roasted Rice Powder Put 1/4 cup (50 g) of uncooked long-grain rice in a heavy dry wok and put over low heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until the rice is golden-brown all over, about 8 to 10 minutes. While still hot, transfer to a mortar or spice grinder and grind or process to a sandy texture; do not grind finely as it is important for it to have a crunchy texture. I prefer to use a mortar to be able to monitor closely just how fine the rice is getting; around 30 seconds of turning the pestle firmly is generally enough. When the rice powder is completely cold, store in an airtight jar.
Using Banana Leaves If you are fortunate enough to have access to a whole banana plant, cut off an entire leaf. Cut down either side of the thick central rib to obtain two long leaf halves, then trim these to the required size using a pair of scissors. Most cooks will have to make do with packets of either fresh or frozen banana leaves. To prepare banana leaves for cooking, wash the leaves, then cut to the size specified in each recipe. To make banana leaf pliable for folding around food or for fashioning into little cups, it must be softened by passing it briefly through a gas flame (you can watch the moisture starting to rise and the color turn brighter), or by soaking the leaves in boiling water until they soften. When using banana leaf as a wrapper, keep the upper, more shiny side on the outside. (Aluminum foil can be used as a substitute, but it does not provide the moisture, nor the subtle flavor, that are characteristic of banana leaf.)
Making Crisp-fried Shallots or Garlic and Flavored Oil Peel the shallots or garlic and slice thinly and evenly; this is important so that they will cook evenly. Heat enough oil to cover the shallots or garlic in a wok. When it is just warm, not hot, add the sliced shallots or garlic and cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until they are golden brown and crisp. It is essential to keep the temperature low otherwise the shallots or garlic will brown before they are cooked through; shallots may take around 6 to 8 minutes of slow cooking, garlic a little less. Lift out and dry on paper towels and when completely cold, store in an airtight jar; do not add salt as this will turn them limp. The flavored shallot or garlic oil is kept and used as a seasoning oil, drizzled over cooked food.
Preparing Ground Spices and Seasoning Pastes with a Spice Grinder If you’re ever tempted to use ground spices bought in a bottle or plastic pack, just try this test. Lightly toast in a dry pan some whole spice seeds (coriander, for example) for about a minute, or until they start to smell fragrant. Transfer them to a spice grinder and process to a fine powder. Lift the lid and sniff the result, then compare this with commercially available ground coriander that was processed goodness knows how long ago and has gone from the factory to the store to your cupboard and been kept there until you’re about to use it. I’m certain that after doing this test, you’ll be convinced that it’s best to grind your own spices. Heating spices before grinding crisps them slightly, making them easy to grind and it also helps release the fragrance and flavor in the volatile oils.
Freshly roasted and ground spices can be cooled before being stored in an airtight container in the freezer, where they keep every bit of their fresh fragrance. Since I use a lot of coriander and cumin, to save time, I prepare a batch of several tablespoons of freshly roasted and ground spices and freeze them; they do not freeze into a solid block but retain their powdery texture and when used, taste as if they have been freshly toasted and ground.
Seasoning pastes are used in countless Southeast Asian dishes. When using a spice grinder (and, indeed, if using a mortar and pestle), it is important to slice or chop the ingredients before processing. If using dry spices as part of the paste, these should be ground first, then the fresh moist ingredients such as chilies, shallots, garlic, galangal and lemongrass added.
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