155). The easily available, mild Hungarian paprika is a good substitute.
Peppercorns These are one of the oldest-known spices and are often referred to as the king of spices. Peppercorns are the berries of the pepper plant, a branching evergreen creeper that grows mainly in the hot and humid monsoons forests of south west India. The plant is indigenous to India and dates back to 4000 B.C. The very tangy, slightly hot berries grow like clusters of grapes on the pepper plant. Pepper-corns range in color from white, green to black. White peppercorns are picked ripe, and their outer skin is removed. Green peppercorns are under-ripe berries that are cured in brine. Black peppercorns are picked under ripe and allowed to dry until dark black. Black peppercorns are most commonly used and impart an incredible flavor to all curries. The world’s top quality black pepper is grown in India in the southwest coastal state of Kerala, and is known as Tellicherry pepper. The recipes in this book call for dry and oil-roasted, ground and crushed black peppercorns.
Pulses, see Dried legumes
Rice Rice is an indispensable part of Indian meals. It is served as a staple alongside curries and dals and is eaten at least twice a day in India. There are many distinctive kinds of rice grown and sold in the Indian subcontinent. For everyday meals, the type of rice used varies from region to region. While the people in southern regions prefer the locally available red rice or long-grain variety, northerners prefer the aromatic Basmati rice, which grows in the foothills of the Himalayas. One of my favorite varieties of rice, which I grew up eating, is a medium-grain par-boiled rice known as “red boiled rice” or “rosematta rice.” It is made by parboiling the rice paddy before husking. After parboiling, the grain is separated from the husk, thereby leaving a part of the bran on the grain, which gives the rice its red or reddish brown color. It can be boiled as any other form of rice, though it takes twice as long to cook and often requires more water. I have not used it in this book because it is only available at Indian grocery stores or online. If you do run across it and would like to try it, I recommend serving it with dishes from the Southwest of India, and in particular with Coconut Chicken Curry (page 110) and Mangalore Fish Curry (page 105). Basmati, which means “queen of fragrance” in Hindi, is the most popular and the best-known rice of India, and it is the most expensive. It has a wonderful fragrance when cooked with whole spices and is a good match for all Indian dishes. Basmati rice is always used for puloa and biriyani —two types of rice dishes—for it absorbs flavors beautifully and yet keeps its shape during cooking. Basmati rice, though preferred, is not absolutely necessary when making simpler rice preparations, such as Lemon Rice with Peanuts (page 129) or Mint Rice with Potatoes and Toasted Cumin (page 133). Whereas Basmati rice needs to be soaked prior to being rinsed and drained, ordinary long-grain rice only needs to be rinsed and drained.
Rosewater Rosewater or rose syrup is the leftover liquid remaining when rose petals and water are distilled together. It imparts an intoxicating fragrance of roses to rice dishes, desserts and drinks. Considered very auspicious for its aroma, it is also diluted with water and sprinkled at various religious and cultural ceremonies in India. A teaspoonful may be added to desserts (Watermelon Mint Ice, page 142) and drinks like Sweet Mango Yogurt Lassi (page 152) or to rice dishes to create a unique taste and aroma. Rose water is available in Indian or Middle Eastern grocery stores.
Saffron These intense yellow-orange threads are the dried orange-to-deep-red stigmas of a small purple flower of the saffron crocus, a member of the iris family. It is the world’s most expensive spice as it takes almost 75,000 handpicked blossoms to make one pound of saffron. Use saffron sparingly as it just takes four to five strands of saffron to flavor a dish that feeds four. It has a distinctly warm, rich, powerful, and intense flavor. It is available in strands or ground. I recommend the strands for the sake of more assured quality. Gently heat saffron on a dry skillet before using as heat brings out its aroma. There is no acceptable substitute for saffron. Saffron is available in Indian or Middle Eastern grocery stores, gourmet stores and online (see Shopping Guide, page 155).
Salt The most common salt that is used in North America is table salt. It is very fine in texture and is often supplemented with iodine. Table salt, when compared to kosher or sea salt, is much saltier. Sea salt is the most popular salt used in Indian cooking. Measurements used in the recipes in this book are for common table salt. If you prefer to use kosher salt or sea salt, you will most likely need to increase the amount of salt by 10 to 15 percent. However, it is always a good idea to taste and check for seasoning before adding more. Black salt (kala namak) — Contrary to its name, powdered black salt is purplish pink in color. It is an unrefined sea salt with a very strong and sulfurous taste. It is available in rock or powder form, and is very traditional to India. Its distinctive earthy flavor and aroma helps to bring out the flavor in relishes, salads, raitas and snacks. It is an essential ingredient in making (page 35). Black salt is a better choice for those on a low-sodium diet because it has a low-sodium content. It is available in Indian grocery stores. Feel adventurous? Try sprinkling ¼ teaspoon of black salt, a pinch of black pepper and squeeze of fresh lime over a chilled glass of Pepsi or Coke to enjoy a masala cola, an popular Indian street-style summer beverage.
Star anise This dried, star-shaped, dark-brown pod contains licorice-flavored seeds. The pods grow on an evergreen tree that is a member of the magnolia family. Star anise is used to flavor and add an enticing aroma to both sweet and savory dishes. It is often used on its own or ground with different spices to make blends. This spice is available at Indian and Asian grocery stores, online (see Shopping Guide, page 155) and at many conventional supermarkets.
Sesame seeds These tiny seeds are harvested from a flowering that is widely adapted in tropical regions around the world and is cultivated for its edible seeds. Whole or ground white sesame seeds are used in savory Indian dishes, breads and many sweets. Sometimes the seeds are toasted to heighten their nutty flavor. They come in a host of different colors, depending upon the variety, including white, yellow, black and red. In general, the paler varieties of sesame seeds are used in the West and Middle East, while the black varieties are more common in the East. They are available in most grocery stores.
Tamarind This is the curved brown bean pod of the tamarind tree. The pod contains a sticky pulp enclosing one to twelve shiny black seeds. It is the pulp that is used as a flavoring for its sweet-and-sour fruity aroma and taste. It is used in chutneys, preserves and curries. Tamarind is available in South Asian grocery stores, natural foods stores, and some conventional supermarkets in one or more of the following three ways: in pod form, pressed into a fibrous dried slab, or in jars of tamarind “paste” or “concentrate,” which has a jamlike consistency. I use the tamarind paste in the recipes in this book simply because it is the most convenient form to use and is fairly easy to find.
Alternatively to create tamarind juice from the dried slab, soak a walnut-size chunk of the dried pulp (this is equivalent to 1 teaspoon tamarind paste) in ½ cup (125 ml) of warm water for 15 minutes. After soaking the pulp in water, break it up with your fingers, and then mash it with a fork until the liquid is muddy brown in appearance. Strain this mixture before use through a fine-mesh strainer. Using the back of spoon, mash and push the pulp through the fine-mesh strainer to extract any remaining juice.
Turmeric It is a rhizome of a tropical plant in the ginger family. The fresh root is boiled,
