prolong the life span of fresh herbs, like fresh coriander leaves (cilantro) and mint, wash and dry the leaves with paper towels until the leaves are mostly, but not completely, dried. Store refrigerated, wrapped in kitchen or paper towels, in a ziplock bag.
Asafetida The dried gum like resin from a rhizome of a giant fennel-like plant. It is sold in both lump and ground forms and used in very small quantities because of its strong and pungent flavor, which is somewhat like garlic. I use and recommend the ground version because it comes mixed with rice flour and turmeric powder to mellow the flavor.
Asian chili powder or cayenne pepper This is a red powder made from grinding dried red skins of several types of chili peppers. In India, it is simply called “chili powder.” You can substitute cayenne pepper, which is commonly available in supermarkets. The Indian chili powder, which is darker in color than cayenne pepper, is available in Indian grocery stores. It adds a spicy flavor to dishes.
Bay leaves These are long, oval, pointed and smooth leaves of a hardy evergreen shrub. The leaves are dark green when fresh and turn olive green when dry. The fresh leaves are very mild and do not develop their full flavor until several weeks after picking and drying. They are often used whole, or sometimes ground in curries and rice dishes. They are an important ingredient in the Indian spice blend garam masala. Bay leaves are also a common fixture in the cooking of many European cuisines (particularly those of the Mediterranean), as well as North and South American cuisines. The bay leaf that is commonly available in North America is similar in appearance to the Indian bay leaf, but its flavor and fragrance are milder than the Indian one. If you cannot find Indian bay leaves, which are often found only in Indian grocery stores, you may use regular bay leaves as a substitute. The difference is very subtle and will not make a difference in the final result.
Cardamom The cardamom plant is native to India and Sri Lanka and is also cultivated in Guatemala, Mexico, Indonesia and other areas of southern Asia. The cardamom pods are harvested just before they are ripe and they are allowed to dry in the sun or sometimes in drying machines. There are two distinct types of cardamom pods used in Indian cooking: the small green pod and large black pod. The green pods are the most common and have exceptional flavor. I use the green pods in all the recipes in this book. Black cardamom pods are used in Indian rice and meat dishes; however, they are not as commonly available. Cardamom pods are used in almost every part of the cuisine, from savory dishes to curries and desserts. When using cardamom for desserts, the seeds are extracted from the pods and ground to a powder. For curries, stews or rice dishes, the whole pod can be added directly to the food. The sharp and bitter taste of cardamom mellows to a warming sweet taste as it cooks. The pre-ground is more readily available than the pods in the West whereas in India, it is more typical to find the whole pod. The quality of pre-ground cardamom is not as good as freshly grinding the seeds at home. Once the pods are opened or the seeds ground, the flavor and aroma of the cardamom are lost very quickly. I especially recommend freshly grinding the seeds for the dessert and beverage recipes, where the spice often plays a key role. For instructions on how to extract the seeds and grind them, see page 145.
Chili peppers There are more than 150 varieties of chili peppers in the world. That’s a lot to keep track, but as a general rule the smaller ones are hotter than the larger ones. The two most common chilies used in Indian cooking are the Cayenne and Thai. The cayenne pepper is green when fresh and red when dried. The Thai variety, sometimes known as “bird’s-eye,” is smaller and hotter. The Serrano chili is more widely available in the U.S. and is a good alternative to the cayenne and Thai, though it is milder. If you cannot find fresh Cayenne, Thai or Serrano chili peppers, simply use what’s available. Fresh chilies are one of the most important ingredients for providing pungency in Indian cuisine. In many regions in India fresh green chili peppers are served raw with the food. Often I like to remove the inner membrane and seeds and use only the skin to reduce the heat. Chopping a fresh chili releases capsaicin, and the finer you chop it, the hotter the taste. Sometimes I slit the chilies open, but leave the seeds intact, to release a gentler heat. Dried red chili peppers are about 1½ to 2 inches (4 to 5 cm) long, and are usually added to hot oil to infuse their strong flavor into the oil. A quick contact with hot oil enhances and intensifies the flavor of the skins. The Indian dried red chilies are similar to most common types such as the cayenne and chili de arbol. Dried red pepper flakes are made from hot dried red peppers. Red pepper flakes are generally not made of one type of chili, but from various combinations of ancho, bell, cayenne and more. Often there is a high ratio of seeds, which intensifies the heat of the pepper. The flakes are not very commonly used in traditional Indian cooking. I use them often to intensify my sauces and stir-fry dishes.
Cinnamon This highly fragrant spice is the dried inner bark of the laurel tree. It is an important ingredient in Indian cooking, imparting a pleasant aroma to foods. It is sold in powder and stick forms. The whole sticks are used to flavor meats, curry dishes and rice dishes as well as teas.
Coconut milk, coconut meat, shredded coconut In my recipes I use coconut milk, coconut meat and shredded coconut. Coconut milk is produced by crushing the thick white coconut meat that is inside the dark brown coconut shell with water. It is then drained and the soaked coconut meat is squeezed to extract the liquid. As the milk sits, the fat rises to the surface. This fat is skimmed off and sold separately as coconut cream. The cream is much richer and thicker than the milk. Coconut milk and coconut cream are both sold in cans. When using coconut milk for savory recipes, make sure it is not sweetened. Sweetened milk or cream is used in making pastries and cocktails. I prefer to used full-fat coconut milk rather than the “lite” version, which is not as flavorful or creamy. Before opening a can of coconut milk make sure to shake it well as the cream will have risen to the top; shaking the can incorporate the cream into the thinner milk-like liquid to create a smooth, even consistency. Once the can is opened make sure you store it in the refrigerator covered and use it within 2 to 3 days, as it spoils quickly. Packaged shredded coconut (sometimes called “grated”) is available frozen, which is the next best option to freshly grated, and dried, or “desiccated.” For the recipes in this book, be sure to purchase unsweetened shredded coconut. While dried un-sweetened coconut is easy to find in most supermarkets or health food stores, frozen shredded coconut is available only in Southeast Asian or Indian grocery stores. The dried shredded coconut, however, has significantly less flavor than the frozen or fresh forms and does not give the creamy texture that is desired in Indian curries and stews. If you only have access to dried, unsweetened shredded coconut, soak ½ cup (50 g) of the dried coconut in ½ cup (125 ml) of boiling water for about 15 minutes. Drain the excess water before use. Note that ½ cup of dried coconut is comparable to 1 cup of freshly shredded or frozen shredded coconut. Freshly shredded, or grated, coconut will provide the best flavor and texture in Indian dishes. This requires purchasing a coconut and whacking it apart at home. Here is how to grate fresh coconut at home: Start with a clean looking coconut without cracks or any over powering or rancid smell. It should feel heavy and full of water. You can shake the coconut to hear the water swish. Place the coconut on a clean heavy wooden cutting board or a clean concrete block. Holding the coconut in one hand, tap the coconut lightly on all sides with a hammer to dislodge the insides from the hard brown shell. Then carefully but forcefully hit the shell with the hammer to break it open. Now most of the hard shell should separate from the coconut. Carefully pry off the meat from the brown outer shell with the tip of a well rounded blunt knife. Grate the coconut meat using a handheld grater or cut it into thin slices for Kerala Coconut Beef (page 116).
Coriander leaves Also known as “cilantro,” the leaves of this plant, an annual in the parsley family,
