Cook's Guide to Asian Vegetables. Wendy Hutton

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Cook's Guide to Asian Vegetables - Wendy Hutton

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are grown for their small seeds which are dried, husked and split to make one of India's most flavorful lentils, known as toovar, arhar or paripoo dal, depending on the region. More popular in India than anywhere else in the world, the pigeon pea is thought to be native to either Africa or India. The color of pigeon peas varies. They are sometimes known in English as red gram, however, they are most often yellow rather than red. They should not be confused with red lentils or masoor dal, which are slightly smaller and have a definite salmon pink color.

      Appearance & Flavor Pigeon peas range in color from white through yellow to brown and even black, although those dried and split for use as lentils or dal have a yellowish ochre shade. With their excellent flavor, pigeon peas are arguably the tastiest of all lentils. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties With 20% protein and high levels of calcium, phosphorus and beta-carotene, pigeon peas are very nutritious. They are also easily digested. Culinary Uses Split pigeon peas do not need soaking or pre-cooking, though some Indian cooks like to soak them in tepid water for 10-15 minutes before using. They are particularly popular in southern India, where they are generally simmered with spices and water or coconut milk to make a moist lentil stew or soup. The lentils are also cooked with mixed vegetables to make the southern Indian dish known as sambar, usually spooned over rice or eaten as a dip with savory pancakes made from ground rice and black gram (dosai).

      Red Lentils are known in India as masoor dal, and are a type of skinned split pea. In Europe, this attractive red lentil is generally associated with Egyptian and North African cuisine, which is not surprising since the plant on which it grows originated in the Middle East, and is widely used there for soups and stews. Red lentils are now widespread in India, and are popular not only for their excellent flavor but because of their digestibility and the short time required for cooking.

      Appearance & Flavor This lentil is easily recognized by its beautiful salmon pink color which, rather sadly, changes to yellow after cooking. The flavor is excellent. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Like all other lentils, the red lentil is nutritious, containing around 20% protein as well as carbohydrates and calcium, and is particularly rich in phosphorus and thiamine. Red lentils are also easily digested. Culinary Uses This is one of the quickest cooking lentils, so it does not need any soaking at all. Red lentils are widely used in soups and stews, sometimes with added vegetables. Red lentils are also cooked with rice to make the dish known as kitchri. This became popular with the colonial British and was taken back to Victorian India, where a modified version (usually with the addition of smoked fish) became known as kedgeree.

      Red-streaked Beans or Borlotti Beans belong to the same family as the kidney bean. Similar to pinto beans, red-streaked beans are available fresh in the summer months in Europe when they first mature. Fully matured beans are sold dried. In many parts of Asia, fresh red-streaked beans are increasingly available in supermarkets and markets although the dried variety is not used in local cooking.

      Appearance & Flavor The beautiful pinkish purple-and-cream pods of this bean contain ivory-colored beans streaked with the same red color. Disappointingly however, these red streaks disappear soon after cooking. Red-streaked beans have a mild flavor and, when fresh and young, a pleasant, slightly waxy texture. Choosing & Storing Avoid any pods which may be starting to get a brown tinge; it is preferable to buy beans still in their pods rather than those which have been shelled, as the latter will not keep as long. To store the beans, refrigerate in a paper-lined plastic box or perforated plastic bag for 3-4 days, and peel just before using. If the beans are purchased peeled, they are best used within 24 hours. Culinary Uses In Asia, these beans are usually added to soups. They can also be simmered in lightly salted water and eaten as a salad vegetable, or added to other vegetables and meat to make a stewed or braised dish.

      Sesbania is a small tree native to northeastern Asia, and is commonly found in many gardens throughout Asia. It has attractive, almost lacy foliage and large, creamy white or yellow flowers, and is grown as much for its decorative qualities as for culinary purposes. The name, sesbania, is derived from its botanical name Sesbania grandiflora or Sesbania javanica, and the plant is sometimes known as the West Indian pea tree. Producing edible leaves, pods and flowers, it is indeed a versatile plant. In Cambodia, the important Water Festival usually takes place when the sesbania flowers are blooming. According to one historian/'as people take to the water in their boats, ahead of them goes a boat in which there is a bowl of batter and a pan of hot oil. The flowers, dipped in the batter and cooked, are left on the trees so that they may be collected by those following behind."

      Appearance & Flavor The curved, white or yellow flowers look like crescent moons, and are particularly prized. They taste somewhat like sweetish mushrooms. The pods are about 12 in (30 cm) in length, and very narrow, and should be eaten only when very young. The small, feathery leaves grow on either side of longish stems. Choosing & Storing Clusters of young leaves are sometimes sold in Asian markets. The pods are rarely available commercially. They must be very young to be edible and are normally gathered from kitchen gardens. The flowers, however, may sometimes be found in markets. Preparing If using the leaves, strip them from the stalks. The stamens should be pulled out of the flowers and discarded. Pods are used whole. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Sesbania flowers are a good source of phosphorus, sugar and iron. Culinary Uses The leaves of the plant are usually added to soups and simmered briefly. The pods and leaves can be boiled or simmered in vegetable stews or curries. The flowers are eaten raw or blanched, often with a dip, and can also be dipped in Japanese tempura or Indian pakhora batter and deep-fried.

      Snow Peas are a member of the same family as the sugar pea and are sometimes known by their French name, mange four, which means "eat all." As the name implies, both the pod and immature seeds are eaten. Snow peas are grown in the cooler climate of northern Asia as well as in highland areas in the tropics. They are easier to prepare than regular green peas (they need stringing but not shelling), and have what many deem to be a better flavor.

      Appearance & Flavor Snow peas look like flattened common green pea pods, with the immature seed so small that its shape is barely visible. The pods vary in size, with those found in Asia often half the size of those grown in Western countries. They have a firm texture and delicious flavor, although they are slightly less sweet than sugar peas. Choosing & Storing Look for firm, tender pods. If there are any with portions of the flower at the tips, choose these as they will be very young. Keep refrigerated in a perforated plastic bag for up to 1 week. Preparing Remove the strings by pulling from the tip of each pea and discard the stem end also. Nutritional & Medicinal Properties Similar to sugar peas. Culinary Uses Snow peas can be used as an alternative to sugar peas.

      Soy Beans have been appreciated by the Chinese and Japanese for centuries and are becoming increasingly known in the West where they are no longer used merely as animal feed but are promoted for human consumption as an important source of phyto-estrogens (which help balance hormonal changes) and protein. Although most soy products are made from the dried mature seed, fresh emerald-green soy bean pods are enjoyed in China, Japan (where they are known as edamame) and Korea between mid-June and October. They are often eaten boiled and lightly salted as a cocktail snack, together with sake or beer. Frozen pods are often available in Japanese and Korean stores as well as in supermarkets.

      Appearance & Flavor Small, fresh green fuzzy pods, usually containing three seeds, are sometimes available in bundles. Their flavor is excellent and totally unlike the cooked dried soy beans or any other soy bean products. Frozen green soy bean pods can often be found in Asian stores, and although not quite as good as the fresh bean, are

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