The South West Coast Path. Paddy Dillon
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Walkers who spot part of the route that needs repairing are encouraged to report it, either via the website (look for ‘report a problem’) or by emailing the details to [email protected]. To help the rangers locate it, please ensure that you note the location (ideally a grid reference) and it is also really helpful if you can include a photo.
The severe winters of 2012, 2013 and 2014 hit the coast of the South West hard and resulted not only in the main railway line into Devon and Cornwall being temporarily severed, but it also caused many cliff falls, requiring a huge amount of work to reinstate the Coast Path. Thanks to funding secured by the Association from donations and the Coastal Communities Fund, the majority of this damage has now been repaired. The website carries the latest information on any remaining diversions, so it’s well worth checking in case things have changed since this edition was published.
THE SOUTH WEST COAST PATH
Minehead to South Haven Point
Walkers on one of the most rugged parts of the route, between St Ives and Zennor (Stage 18)
STAGE 1
Minehead to Porlock Weir
Start | South West Coast Path Monument, Minehead (SS 971 468) |
Finish | Ship Inn, Porlock Weir (SS 863 479) |
Distance | 16km (10 miles) |
Ascent | 620m (2035ft) |
Time | 5hrs |
Terrain | A steep and wooded ascent, followed by gentle open moorlands and a steep descent. There is a ‘Rugged Alternative Coast Path’ also available. Level and easy field paths are used later. |
Maps | OS Landranger 181, OS Explorer OL9, Cicerone Vol 1, Harvey 1 |
Refreshments | Plenty of choice in Minehead. Tea garden at Bossington. Pubs, restaurants and cafés off-route at Porlock, and at Porlock Weir. |
After months of planning, you arrive in Minehead to start what may be the longest walk you have ever attempted. Take it one step at a time, setting your sights no further than Porlock in the first instance. Oddly enough, the South West Coast Path climbs high above the coast, drifts well inland on Exmoor and loses sight of the sea. It is a moorland walk rather than a coastal walk, but is pleasant and not too demanding.
A ‘Rugged Alternative Coast Path’ offers a tougher, more scenic beginning.
MINEHEAD
In the 18th century Minehead had a thriving harbour with ships sailing as far away as America. Inland from Quay Town are Lower Town and Higher Town. As shipping dwindled to little more than a small fishing fleet, 19th-century Minehead became a holiday resort and remains so today. Although its seaside pier has gone, its old harbour wall survives. There are no longer direct rail services, but the old branch line has been preserved as the West Somerset Railway (tel 01643 704996, www.west-somerset-railway.co.uk). The modern town is centred on Wellington Square and St Andrew’s Church. The old church of St Michael’s, high above town, dates from the 14th century. Try and spend a night in town before starting the Coast Path.
Facilities include abundant accommodation of all types, including a nearby youth hostel and campsite, banks with ATMs, post office, shops, toilets, pubs and restaurants. Transport links include regular buses to and from the railway station at Taunton. Buses also link Minehead with Porlock and Porlock Weir. Exmoor Coastlink buses do the same, but continue to Lynmouth, Combe Martin and Ilfracombe. For information contact Minehead Information Centre, Beach Hotel, The Avenue, Minehead, Somerset TA24 5AP, tel 01643 702624, www.mineheadtowncouncil.co.uk, [email protected].
An imaginative monument marks the beginning of the South West Coast Path at Minehead, located on the Esplanade, on the way to the harbour. It takes the form of gigantic hands holding a map, based on a design by local art student Sarah Ward, executed in bronze by Owen Cunningham. Pause for a moment of reflection. All who start this trail must feel they are stepping out on a formidable journey – perhaps with lingering doubts, but certainly with anticipation and a sense of adventure.
Walk along the promenade from the monument, to pass the little harbour, pub and lifeboat station. Continue past a road-end turning area to follow a clear coastal path across a grassy area at the foot of a well-wooded slope, above a pebble beach. The path later climbs through the woods and drifts inland, joining and following an access road towards Greenaleigh Farm. Turn left up steps before the farm, following a path that makes a sweeping zigzag up the wooded slope.
Go through a gate, then up to a junction, and turn sharp right. The path rises across a wooded slope, continuing across a slope of bracken, gorse, bilberry and heather, to reach a junction. The interesting ruins of the Burgundy Chapel lie downhill and off-route, but the Coast Path turns left up to a signpost and bench near a small car park on North Hill at 250m (820ft). There are good views across the Bristol Channel to South Wales, Swansea, Cardiff and the tiny islands of Steep Holm and Flat Holm.
Turn right as signposted for Bossington. The path is easy, flanked by bracken and brambles, followed by heather and gorse. A signposted junction is reached where the main route keeps left and the ‘Rugged Alternative Coast Path’ is signposted down to the right.
RUGGED ALTERNATIVE COAST PATH
(ADDS 1.5KM (1 MILE), 200M (655FT) OF ASCENT AND 30MINS)
The path is stony, then grassy, passing bracken, rowan, hawthorn and holly to reach a bench and a junction. Keep left along a clear path, later going through a kissing gate and down into a valley. Climb to pick up and follow a cliff path, enjoying splendid coastal views at Eastern Brockholes. Gradients are gentle, around 200m (655ft), except when another valley is crossed at Western Brockholes. Keep right at path junctions until the path bends left, with views across Porlock Bay. Turn right downhill to rejoin the main route on Bossington Hill.
The main route runs more or less level and later goes through a gate. Sheep and cattle graze enclosed grassy fields to the right. The path narrows among gorse bushes and goes through another gate, then becomes broader again. Cross a road-end serving the enclosed fields and continue along a track, eventually reaching 290m (950ft) on Selworthy Beacon, whose summit, just to the left, rises to 308m (1013ft).
Turn right as signposted around a corner of the enclosed fields and there are good views inland to Exmoor.