the path turns out to be pleasant and grassy, running well above a cliff-line. The altitude is only 94m (308ft) as the path turns around the dramatically rocky Baggy Point. (Note that there is a right turn at a junction, where you might have expected a left turn.)
A good gritty path runs along the low cliff-line, passing a preserved whalebone and linking with a quiet road leading round Croyde Bay, passing two cafés. Walk along the road and turn right along Beach Road, where more food and drink can be obtained, and there are toilets. Croyde lies inland from Croyde Bay and together they offer a range of accommodation, campsites, post office, shops, toilets, pubs and restaurants.
The broad and sandy expanse of Croyde Bay at low tide
Turn left along the sandy beach, or in case of high water, hug the sandy shore and divert slightly inland to cross a culvert footbridge over a stream flowing into the bay. At the far side of the bay, come ashore using a flight of steps – but not the ones marked as ‘Private’.
Turn right through a kissing gate as signposted for the Coast Path and Tarka Trail to Braunton. The path goes along the coast a little, then climbs to a road. Turn left along the road, then sharp right to follow a grassy path above and parallel to the road. This path runs across the slopes of Saunton Down and reaches the road near the Saunton Sands Hotel.
Just as the path reaches the busy road, there is a choice of routes. Either turn left to avoid the road, climbing back onto Saunton Down – this route links with a farm track that is followed to the right, then drops down towards St Anne’s Church to rejoin the road. Alternatively, cross the busy road to reach the Saunton Sands Hotel, following a circuitous route round the hotel and down to a beach café and car park. Follow the car park access road inland, but step to the right along a path as marked. This rejoins the busy road, which is then followed past St Anne’s Church.
At a crossroads near the church, turn right along a narrow lane. A short path links the lane with a track, and a left turn along the track leads towards a golf course – so beware of flying golf balls! Follow the track until signposts indicate a left turn, and take particular care crossing a fairway at that point. Waymarked paths lead away from the golf course, through patchy woodlands and open areas. There is a military danger area to the right; stay on the clear path at all times. If there is any reason for you not to proceed, red flags should be flying. When another track is reached, turn left along it, almost reaching the Sandy Lane car park beside Braunton Burrows.
Braunton Burrows National Nature Reserve is one of the largest sand dune systems in Britain, made mostly of crushed, windblown shells. These have been stabilised by marram grass and patchy woodlands. There are around 400 species of flowering plants, including orchids. Foxes, hedgehogs, rabbits, moles and small mammals thrive. Buzzards, kestrels and magpies are often seen, as well as a range of butterflies.
Turn right along a grassy path and later turn left to reach a clear dirt road, barred to vehicles. This is known as the American Road and is often full of deep puddles. Turn right to follow it. The military training area is still to the right. At length the track almost reaches the sea near Crow Point – a hooked spit that affords shelter to a few small boats. The villages of Instow and Appledore are seen across the mouth of the River Taw, but cannot be approached without a boat; walkers may find it galling to be so close, yet have to spend another day or two trying to reach them!
Another dirt road leads to a car park, for a long journey inland. Walk to the White House, where ferries once ran across the river mouth. Turn right and left as signposted for the Coast Path and follow an embankment around Horsey Island. The embankment was built in 1857 to reclaim the marshland, and the stone barns are locally known as ‘linhays’.
The embankment might be damaged, in which case a notice directs walkers along the road instead. The grassy embankment leads inland alongside the tidal River Caen. Continue following it, even though a road runs just below, to reach Velator Quay, built in 1853 as part of the marsh reclamation scheme (Velator was a thriving little port until the railway arrived in 1874). Use the riverside embankment until the road has to be followed again. When a roundabout is reached at Velator the route is on the outskirts of Braunton.
Facilities at Braunton include a range of accommodation, including a nearby campsite. There is a bank with ATM, post office, shops, toilets, pubs and restaurants. Transport links include buses to Saunton, Croyde and Woolacombe, as well as Barnstaple. There are also buses to Ilfracombe, Combe Martin, Lynmouth, Porlock, Minehead and Taunton via the Exmoor Coastlink service. Tourist information centre: The Bakehouse Centre, Caen Street, Braunton, Devon, EX33 1AA, tel 01271 816688, www.visitbraunton.co.uk, [email protected].
STAGE 6
Braunton to Westward Ho!
| Start | Velator, Braunton (SS 486 358) |
| Finish | Promenade, Westward Ho! (SS 433 292) |
| Distance | 37.5km (23¼ miles) |
| Ascent | 250m (820ft) |
| Time | 9hrs |
| Terrain | Easy walking along broad, clear, level railway trackbeds for most of the way. Fiddly paths through woods and fields are used between Bideford and Appledore, giving way to grass and shingle banks near Westward Ho! |
| Maps | OS Landranger 180, OS Explorers OL9 & 139, Cicerone Vol 1, Harvey 1 |
| Refreshments | Café at RMB Chivenor and the nearby Braunton Inn. Plenty of choice at Barnstaple. The old railway station at Fremington has a café. Plenty of choice at Instow, Bideford, Appledore and Westward Ho! |
This is a long day’s walk, but it mostly follows old railway trackbeds and can be covered quickly. The trackbeds stretch from Braunton to Barnstaple, then onwards to Instow and Bideford. There’s an opportunity to catch a ferry between Instow and Appledore, saving a 10km (6¼-mile) estuary walk via Bideford, but this is subject to seasonal and tidal restrictions. Some walkers get a bus part of the way, or even all of the way through this stage, but it’s worth walking, and presents no difficulty apart from the distance.
The trackbeds are popular cycleways, which get quite busy on summer weekends. The route from Bideford to Appledore and Westward Ho! follows paths that can be fiddly in places, ending with a trudge along a shingle bank.
This long day could be split at Instow, or any other point, given that there are regular buses linking all the town and villages.
Start
