the summer and turn even the easiest route into a very serious undertaking.
Thunder and lightning is a totally different matter. Being attached to a metal cable in a high, exposed mountain situation is not where you want to be! So if storms threaten, avoid climbs which lack escape routes. If you are caught in a storm and are unable to escape from a route, there are some simple rules which should be followed to minimise the risk of being ‘buzzed’.
If a storm is approaching (warning signs include a build up of towering cumulo-nimbus cloud or the sound of distant thunder) evaluate possible escape routes as soon as possible.
If possible, unclip from the cable and move a safe distance away. If an escape route is available, then use it. If you have no option but to sit it out, a wide ledge might provide an adequate safety zone on a cliff face. If on a ridge, however, try to get off it as soon as possible.
In a storm, stay out in the open if this is possible – do not seek shelter under boulders or overhangs or go into caves, as these can be the natural spark points as lightning tries to find its way to earth.
Keep as low as possible: sitting on your rucksack minimises both your profile and your contact with wet ground.
Keep your core as dry as possible by putting on your waterproofs without delay.
This may all sound rather frightening; indeed it can be! However, remember that lightning strikes natural projections, such as mountain tops or rock pinnacles, so if you are unlucky enough to be caught in a storm, stay calm, make sound judgements, follow the good practice listed above, and the risks will be very small.
Route Grading
Grading is a subjective matter, not an exact science. The authors’ starting point is the belief that any grading system should offer a view of the seriousness of a route as well as its difficulty. A route can be hard without being too serious, and vice versa.
Spectacular descent on Sentiero SOSAT (BREN 2)
Many people have experienced situations in which their confidence has proved to be misplaced, and have had to back off a route and leave it for another day. On a route which is not only hard but also serious, things might not be quite so straightforward! Big routes on big mountains should be accorded a degree of respect, and factors like escape routes and even rescue access need to be considered. Bad weather and stone falls can also result in a carefree day on the hill turning into an epic.
Standard SAT and CAI safety notices
The Dolomites abound with via ferratas which are technically easy, but in terrain which needs to be taken seriously. Consequently, it is important that the relatively inexperienced scrambler appreciates the degree of mountain commitment involved in the route he or she is planning to climb.
Each route in this guidebook is therefore graded on a five-point scale of technical difficulty, with 1 the easiest and 5 the hardest grade. Some of the ferratas in this volume are ‘sport routes’ which, like recently constructed routes in Provence and Austria, tend to be at the top end of the scale of difficulty.
The assessment of seriousness takes into account the mountain commitment involved, accessibility, potential escape routes, the level of fitness required and potential objective dangers. Our three-point scale of seriousness is shown as A, B or C, where A is the least serious and C the most committing.
Technical difficulty
1 Easy routes, with limited via ferrata climbing, entirely suitable for the young and inexperienced. Requires no more than a head for heights and sure-footedness.
2 Straightforward routes for the experienced mountain walker or scrambler with a head for heights.
3 Rather more difficult routes, not recommended for the completely novice via ferratist. At this level complete freedom from vertigo and sure-footedness are required, as is complete competence in the use of self-belay equipment.
4 Demanding routes, frequently involving steep rock faces and requiring a fairly high standard of technical climbing ability. Definitely not for the novice or those unsure of their confidence in mountain situations.
5 Routes of the highest technical standard encountered in via ferrata climbing, suitable only for the most experienced via ferratist.
The steep start of Via Attrezzata Rino Pisetta (RIVA 1)
Seriousness
1 Straightforward outings in unthreatening mountain terrain. Routes will have easy access and/ or escape opportunities, will be virtually risk free in the event of a change in the weather, and be relatively free from the risk of stone-fall.
2 Routes where a degree of mountain experience is required. Access might be more difficult, and opportunities to escape from the route will be limited, so minor mishaps could develop into quite serious situations. A change in the weather could potentially be more than merely inconvenient, and the climber needs to be aware of the risk of stone-fall.
3 Routes for only the experienced mountaineer. Such routes might lack any escape opportunities, be in remote areas, have passages of very exposed, unprotected terrain, or involve inaccessible situations where any mishap could have the most serious consequences. The threat of stone-fall might be a major consideration, or a change in the weather could add greatly to the problems posed by the route.
Route vital statistics
For each route an indication of the ascent, descent and length of via ferrata involved is given. Where a route involves extended traverses this can appear to give rather odd statistics where the length of the ferrata exceeds the ascent/descent figure (e.g. VICEN 2 Sentiero Alpinistico Angelo Pojesi).
Conditions in the mountains
The route descriptions and gradings in the guide assume, as they must, that conditions are good, that ice is not a problem and, in the case of some lower-level routes, that watercourses are not in spate. However, even in mid-summer the weather can be extremely variable. Sudden thunderstorms, snowfall, ice formation or flash flooding of watercourses can all occur unexpectedly in a Dolomite summer. So, when considering the given grading assessments, you should make appropriate allowances for additional difficulties resulting from adverse conditions.
Equipment
The basic equipment required to climb via ferratas safely is neither complicated nor expensive. The items below will suffice for all but the most demanding outings, but for the higher routes (and even lower ones early in the season) consideration needs to be given to additional gear such as ice axes and crampons.
Although some UK-based climbing shops do now stock (or can order) via ferrata equipment, it can be bought readily in the Dolomites. As well as being cheaper in Italy, a wider variety of equipment is also available.
Helmet: perhaps the single most important piece of equipment. This must conform to UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) standard to protect the climber against rock-fall.
