Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 2. John Smith

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Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 2 - John Smith

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name ‘Dolomites’ is derived from a French geologist, Deodat Guy Sylvain Tancre de Gratet de Dolomieu, a scholar who in 1789 was so fascinated by the carbonate rock that he sent samples to Switzerland for classification. When they were returned as of a previously unknown composition, they were named after him. In the 19th century it was mainly English mountaineers who applied the name ‘Dolomia’ to the area in recognition of the geological discovery.

      Dolomite rock is made up of stratified calcium magnesium carbonate, with some areas of true limestone, some containing more stratified and folded rock than others depending on the area. Limestone has a reputation for loose rock, the Dolomites being no exception. Interestingly enough the colour of the rocks gives an indication of the firmness or friability. Generally, grey and black rocks are firm (though the black colour also indicates possible wetness), yellow-coloured rock is only reasonably firm, and red rock is the loosest.

      Flora – flowers, plants and trees – form a wonderful complement to the mountain environment! The Dolomite landscape is a result both of man’s recent work and geological activity over millions of years. Scree and glacial debris carried down into the valleys was initially stony and barren, as can still be seen in vast areas. However, over time, the organic remains in the earth allowed vegetation to grow, and now an amazing array of flowers thrives in even the bleakest of landscapes.

      Trees such as beech, fir and larch have become established in the valleys, with hardier pines on higher ground. Many varieties of fungi can be found, particularly in woodland, and their collection is an Italian obsession, albeit subject to strict controls.

      Different plants live at different altitudes, with three principal growing zones identified. These are the sub-montane zone (below 1000m), the principally wooded montane zone (1000 to 2000m), and the high alpine zone (above 2000m), being that above the tree line. Alpine flora, usually abbreviated to alpines, is a generic term referring to plants which grow in this zone.

      Factors such as temperature, light, soil, wind, rain, snow and ground slope combine to create complex environments. Plants adapt to different habitats by developing their own characteristics. Some grow in thick tufts to protect themselves against thermal fluctuations. Another common adaptation is to grow a protective covering of hair to act as a thermal cushion. Another device, where soil is thin, such as in rock crevices, is the development of long root systems. Snow cover in the winter has a big impact on plant life, and it is truly amazing in spring or early summer to see flowers appearing even as the snow melts!

      A wide variety of alpine flora exist in the Dolomites: edelweiss, soldanella, ranunculus (alpine buttercup), saxifrage, gentian, geranium, anemone, violet and primula, to name but a few. Some species are endangered and protected, but your general rule should always be – do not pick flowers, however abundant they may appear to be.

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      Devil’s Claw: a rare plant, but occasionally seen on ferrata routes

      Although you will see flowers in all areas covered by this volume, there are two places of particular interest. One is the whole ridge of Monte Baldo rising above the eastern side of Lake Garda (routes ROVER 5, 6 and 7 are in this area). The other is the Alpine Garden at Viote on Monte Bondone, which boasts over 1000 species of alpine plants and is open to the public from June until September (see TRENT 7).

      If you wish to pursue an interest in alpine flowers, then in addition to reading the excellent books which are available, you can contact the Alpine Garden Society in the UK (see Appendix 5).

      Camosci, stambecchi, deer and marmots are amongst the animals you are likely to see during your trip. The chamois, a type of goat, lives on the scant grass above the tree line, as does the less common long-haired stambecco. Roe deer are widespread at lower altitudes in, or close to, tree cover. Colonies of marmots, living in burrows above about 1600m, are more frequently heard than seen because of their high-pitched whistle. Whilst generally shy creatures, some colonies are becoming more used to human traffic, so you might well see one on look-out duty, erect on its hind legs.

      Until the end of the 19th century, bears were common in the woods of the Dolomites, but hunting and de-forestation led to many years of extinction. However, it is now thought that some may have migrated back towards the Dolomites from Slovenia – but are still a long way from the main areas for via ferratas!

      Birds include eagles, buzzards, mountain choughs (swarms of which seem to arrive on every summit as soon as a sandwich is unwrapped!), woodland grouse or capercaille (at home in woods and undergrowth), white ptarmigan (which changes its plumage in summer to brown), crows, woodpeckers, owls, alpine tree creeper, jay, skylark and many species of finch.

      Snakes are often encountered basking on paths on warm, sunny afternoons. Adders are common, easily recognised by their chevron patterning; tread carefully so as not to disturb, remembering that they are more frightened than you are!

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      Normally timid creatures, juvenile marmots can be very curious!

      Maps

      see information for each route

      Tourist Information Office

      Tourist Board, Italy 39100, Piazza Walther 8, Bolzano

      Tel: (0471) 307 000

      Fax: (0471) 980 128

      E-mail: [email protected]

      Internet: www.bolzano-bozen.it/en/bolzano.htm

      Bolzano (Bozen) is the main town in the Adige valley and the capital of the Alto-Adige province. It is the heart of the German-speaking area and has a Tyrolean, rather than Italian, atmosphere. Bolzano has been chosen more as a starting point than as a place to stay, since the three routes in this section are rather dispersed, and there are many accommodation options available in the surrounding villages. This thriving commercial centre lies just off the Brennero autostrada, on the main rail link from Munich to Venice. It also has its own small airport with a few charter flights from the United Kingdom.

      Bolzano is also a popular tourist destination, not least because of the excellent museum which has been constructed to house the ‘Ice Man’, nicknamed Otzi, as he was discovered in the Otztal Glacier. The forensic examination on his well-preserved 5000-year-old body was performed by Austrian scientists, and then he was returned to Bolzano (for political, rather than curatorial, reasons). A visit to the exhibition (where a recorded audio-guide can be hired in English) is a fascinating way to spend a day out from your climbing schedule, though, as many people consider it a bad weather option, queues are highly likely when it’s wet.

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      Campanili del Latemar

Grade: 2
Seriousness: C
Departure point: Maier Alm, or Panorama Chairlift, Obereggen 2150m or Gardone Gondola Predazzo.
Ascent:

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