rifugio, but there is a different (and quite scenic) return to Maier Alm via Forcella dei Camosci. Either way, continue on path 18/516 back to Forcella la Forcellone, and if you are returning by the outward route follow the waymarks back to Rif. Torre di Pisa. However, we recommend following a good (though not waymarked) path which avoids further height loss and rises steadily from Forcella la Forcellone to Forcella dei Camosci in about 35 minutes.
From Forcella dei Camosci a short cable (easy handrail only) leads down a broken gully into a rock bowl (another place where there may be some snow early season). Follow waymarks, and in a few minutes see a warning triangle reading ‘STOP’ painted on a rock ahead. Path 18 turns 90 degrees right (heading generally north) here and goes through a spectacular narrow valley with towering peaks on either side. After 15–20 minutes the path exits the towering peaks to a steep zigzag descent on scree and broken ground. Keep an eye on the waymarks on the descent and simply follow path 18 down to the top of the Oberholz chair at about 2100m. Turn left to head south on fairly level ground on path 23 back to Maier Alm in about 20 minutes. Total descent time from Forcella Grande is 2¾–3 hours.
BOLZ 2
VF Attilio Sieff – Punta Polse
| Grade: | 2 |
| Seriousness: | A |
| Departure point: | Ziano di Fiemme |
| Ascent: | 500m |
| Descent: | 500m |
| Via ferrata: | 100m |
| Approximate time: | 3 hours |
| Highest altitude: | 1450m |
| Map: | Tabacco Carta Topographica 1:25,000 Sheet 014 |
Ziano is in Val di Fiemme at the southern most end of Val di Fassa (see Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites, volume 1, for details of routes in that area). It is accessible by bus from Bolzano and Trento, and accommodation can be found at the ski resorts of Predazzo and Cavalese (information from www.aptfiemme.tn.it, email [email protected], tel. 0462.241111).
A short but pleasant route at a quite low altitude making it useful for a short day (even late afternoon) outing when weather may be unsuitable for climbing a higher-level route. Protection is good throughout, and although Punta Polse is not a high summit it has a very good view.
In the village of Ziano parking is restricted, but there is a car park in the centre of the village close to the church and supermarket. From the main street take Via Zanon (opposite Zorri Max wine distributor). The approach to the ferrata is waymarked from the end of this road; it zigzags up through the trees for about an hour to the start of the route. You simply follow the ferrata to the summit of Punta Polse; it only takes about 30 minutes ascent and the same for the descent. Initially the ferrata follows a broad gully before moving up to the left on good rock with strategically placed pegs. Once you have enjoyed the view from the summit, climb down the route and retrace the approach path back down to Ziano.
BOLZ 3
Monte Roen
| Grade: | 2 |
| Seriousness: | A |
| Departure point: | Roen, Passo della Mendola |
| Ascent: | 750m (950m if Testa Nera is included) |
| Descent: | 750m (950m if Testa Nera is included) |
| Via ferrata: | 100m |
| Approximate time: | 4½–5 hours (7 hours if Testa Nera is included) |
| Highest altitude: | 2116m |
| Map: | Tabacco map 049 |
Passo della Mendola is 24km from Bolzano above the town of Caldaro; it has plenty of accommodation and is accessible by bus from Bolzano or the funicular railway from Caldaro (information from the Val di Non Tourist Office, tel. 0463.830133, www.valdinon.cim.it, email [email protected]).
The ferrata is quite short, but with an excellent round walk on good paths; the wonderful views from the summit of Monte Roen make this route well worth doing if you are in the area, even though it is out on a limb in relation to other ferrata routes.
From Passo della Mendola a good road (signed Roen 1.5km) leads south to a large car park by the Campi-Golf chairlift (open from mid-July to early September, and occasional weekends in May and June). Path 500 leads you up the wide ski piste by the side of the chairlift. At the top of the ski piste (about 30 minutes) follow signs leading right to Rif. Mezzavia and Rif. Oltradige. Go down to the side of Rif. Mezzavia and path 500 turns left. In a couple of minutes you ignore a CAI sign ‘Bellavista, Monte Lira’, and simply follow the waymarks for path 500 as it works its way up through woods for about 45 minutes to Rifugio Malga Roen, 1769m. It is a privately owned rifugio which has good food and nine beds (open end of May to end of October, tel. 0463.831642).
Path 500 was previously numbered 521, which is still shown on some maps.
Rifugio Malga Roen is at the crossroads of a number of paths, the one leading to the ferrata being 560, heading south on a gravel road to reach CAI Rif. Oltradige, 1775m, in about 15–20 minutes. ‘Cima Roen Ferrata 0.45, 523’ is signposted behind the rifugio, and a path zigzags up to its start in 10–15 minutes.
Monte Roen: waymarking here is difficult to see!
The ferrata is well cabled (but note that a lot of the cable is now loose) as it makes its way up easy ledges for 15 minutes and then goes up an open gully on good rock with cables all the way to the top (another 15 minutes). From the top of the ferrata, path 523 leads through small pines to the summit of Monte Roen, 2116m, in a further 15 minutes (a total of 3 hours from the Campi-Golf car park). The views from the summit take in many major mountain ranges, to the west Adamello and Brenta, to the north Stubai and Zillertal, and to the east/north-east the peaks of the Dolomites.
The simplest descent is to follow path 500 north from the summit of Monte Roen back down to Rif. Malga Roen (30 minutes) and retrace path 500 back to the start point in a total time of about 2 hours. An alternative descent, which extends the day by about 2 hours, heads south on path 500 to the summit of Testa Nera (also known as Schwarzer Kopf), 1960m. Descend south-east from here on a protected path, 560 Sentiero dei Camosci (or Gemsensteig), back to Rif. Oltradige, from where you retrace your steps back to Rif. Malga Roen and to path 500 down to the start point.
VALLE DI PRIMIERO AND SAN MARTINO DI CASTROZZA
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